470 going to the dyno - HP/TQ estimates

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TT5.9mag said:
If they are Morels you have a much better chance of success. Were they disassembled, inspected, cleaned and reassembled prior to being put in use?

Just a little reassurance maybe, the hydraulic roller lifters in my BBC were dead stable to 6700 on the dyno, and while I dont turn it that hard in the boat, it has been to 6200 many times. They are factory gm replacement hydraulic lifters. Good oil control and pressure is important.
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I’ve never seen a link bar(retro-fit) HR lifter that you can get apart(aside from the Comp evolution lifters).
The plunger hits the link bar rivet before it’s clear of the bore.
 
PRH said:
I’ve never seen a link bar(retro-fit) HR lifter that you can get apart(aside from the Comp evolution lifters).
The plunger hits the link bar rivet before it’s clear of the bore.
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****. Didn’t even think of that. What a shame.
 
I’m not saying they’re “all” that way, but the times we’ve had one stick a plunger……..they weren’t able to be disassembled.

Not a problem with the oem dog bone style.
 
Looking the exhaust numbers over further…….
While the high lift numbers are certainly reasonable, the low lift numbers(thru .400) are better by a bit than what I usually see…….particularly .200 lift.
But none are over 100% c/d.

Indy changed the cnc program on the exhaust port for the SR head a few years ago.
It used to be the same port as the cnc 325 and 345 -1 heads, and now it uses a unique program that has a smaller opening.
 
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1967 Cuda said:
Just a couple updates. Scott Koffel and I talked this morning when I dropped off the motor. He seems to be easy to deal with and knows what he is talking about. That being said, I am more concerned than ever about the hydraulic roller lifters. Mine are Trickflows purchased on 2021, so I believe are actually Morels. Scott relayed that they have had issues with hydraulic roller lifters on the dyno, but not the instability issues that others have mentioned. Basically lifter plunges getting stuck due mainly to tolerance issues with the lifters. He said this was mainly with comp hydraulic roller lifters, so I am keeping my fingers crossed that I won't have this issue. Motor should be ready for some pulls tomorrow.
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You will be quite pleased dealing with Scott Koffel (Ohio shop) or Rich Koffel (Michigan shop). Very straight shooters, honest, and friendly. Rich does/did all my work as I was local to him. Now I'm in Florida....may have to make the long drive if needed!!

I hope you are as pleased with the results!
 
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Demonx2 said:
You will be quite pleased dealing with Scott (Ohio shop) or Rich Koffel (Michigam shop). Very straight shooters, honest, and friendly. Rich does/did all my work as o was local to him. Now I'm in Florida....may have to make the long drive if needed!!

I hope you are as pleased with the results!
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Aren't the koffel guys the b1 pro-stock dudes ?
 
Well day one had some good and some bad. The motor is broke in and had good oil pressure. Scott said the lifters didn’t have any issues like some others he has had on the dyno in the past. (Might still have instability issues at higher rpm, but we will see)

Now for the bad……..unfortunately there was a significant rear main seal leak. Had to run to Summit tonight and get a new one and a few pan gaskets. Hopefully Scott can get the leaked fixed in the morning and a few pulls in the afternoon. Keep your fingers crossed for me!
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Aren't the koffel guys the b1 pro-stock dudes ?
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While dropping off my engine this morning, they had one of there dragster motors sitting in the shop. B1 heads with a huge blower. The exhaust ports on heads are huge.
 
Demonx2 said:
You will be quite pleased dealing with Scott (Ohio shop) or Rich Koffel (Michigam shop). Very straight shooters, honest, and friendly. Rich does/did all my work as o was local to him. Now I'm in Florida....may have to make the long drive if needed!!

I hope you are as pleased with the results!
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Scott has been great to deal with.
 
PRH said:
Rear seals…….I feel your pain.

Hope you get it sorted out.
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Yeah, this is the 3rd big block mopar that we have had rear seal issues with. At least it was found before I had it all in the car, which is one of my reasons for having it run on the dyno.
 
1967 Cuda said:
While dropping off my engine this morning, they had one of there dragster motors sitting in the shop. B1 heads with a huge blower. The exhaust ports on heads are huge.
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If it's the one for their car, I've seen it go 3.70's at Milan Dragway.

Hope you get your rear main leak fixed!
 
Couple more updates. Scott said it will probably take them most of today to get everything back together back together and sealed up. Scott is very knowledgeable on the rear main seal issues and said they are pretty common. He replaced the aftermarket Mancini Racing (MRE-223) billet main cap on the engine with a stock style and fel pro 2947 rear main seal. (said they have the best luck with this combo) Keeping my fingers crossed that this does the trick.

On a side note, I learned something about big block mopar cooling from Scott this morning that I didn't know. I am using a mopar aluminum housing with an electric water pump. Scott to a look inside the thermostat housing and said that I didn't have the bypass plugged. Never heard of this before (maybe this is common knowledge) but apparently there is a small bypass port inside the housing where the thermostat mounts. Scott said block this (tap and plug it) will increase cooling as it will force the coolant into the block. (He is going to do it my engine while it is there) Just thought this was interesting and makes me wonder if this could have been leading to the cooling issues on my dad's motor that we fought for a number of months when we first got his car on the road as he is running the same housing but with a high flow mechanical pump.
 
On another note, I took a picture of the Koffel's drag motor that I mentioned above while I was there today.

IMG_3488.jpg


IMG_3489.jpg
 
Another new update. Rear Main seal is fixed and Scott made an initial short pull from 2,500 - 4,500 just to get a baseline. Initial numbers are 535 HP @ 4,500 and climbing and 642 TQ @ 4,200. This is with dyno fender well headers and carb. Can't wait to see what a full pull looks like tomorrow.
 
1967 Cuda said:
Another new update. Rear Main seal is fixed and Scott made an initial short pull from 2,500 - 4,500 just to get a baseline. Initial numbers are 535 HP @ 4,500 and climbing and 642 TQ @ 4,200. This is with dyno fender well headers and carb. Can't wait to see what a full pull looks like tomorrow.
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Oh, it's going to rip, those numbers are pretty close to mine if I recall
 
Glad that rear seal situation is taken care of.

The thing with plugging the water pump bypass is, you basically can’t use a thermostat when it’s plugged.
The bypass port is exactly that…….it allows coolant to bypass the stat and circulate until it opens.

After it’s plugged there needs to be a way to flow coolant……..and the easy solution at that point is just remove the stat.
 
1967 Cuda said:
Couple more updates. Scott said it will probably take them most of today to get everything back together back together and sealed up. Scott is very knowledgeable on the rear main seal issues and said they are pretty common. He replaced the aftermarket Mancini Racing (MRE-223) billet main cap on the engine with a stock style and fel pro 2947 rear main seal. (said they have the best luck with this combo) Keeping my fingers crossed that this does the trick.

On a side note, I learned something about big block mopar cooling from Scott this morning that I didn't know. I am using a mopar aluminum housing with an electric water pump. Scott to a look inside the thermostat housing and said that I didn't have the bypass plugged. Never heard of this before (maybe this is common knowledge) but apparently there is a small bypass port inside the housing where the thermostat mounts. Scott said block this (tap and plug it) will increase cooling as it will force the coolant into the block. (He is going to do it my engine while it is there) Just thought this was interesting and makes me wonder if this could have been leading to the cooling issues on my dad's motor that we fought for a number of months when we first got his car on the road as he is running the same housing but with a high flow mechanical pump.
Click to expand...
A picture of that plugged area would be great if you can.
 
In a stock/stock type W/P housing……..There is a hole directly below the stat.
Plug it to eliminate the bypass.

It’s like removing/plugging the bypass hose on a SB.
 
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