5.7 Hemi swap on the cheap Tips and tricks inside.

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johnparts

johnparts

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Ok guys I am doing loads of research for my Hemi build and I figured I would post up my experiences to help some guys make this swap in their cars a bit easier. I am not finished so this thread will get updated as time goes on with new information bu tI will try and post everything I have found so far to help as much as I can.

Parts break down:
03 5.7 hemi thrown rod bad crank $450 (friend doing stroker in 06 magnum swaped out for good shortblock)

03 Truck Harness (donated by 5.7Hemi Again thank you) Harness' can be had for 250-450 on ebay

04 Hemi Manual trans computer (truck) $100 (junk yard)

05 and Up car exhaust manifolds should work($50 per side from dodge) or BBK Shorty headers $299

Motor mounts ( Fabbed up my own) $30 bucks of steel and 2 mounts from Napa @ $8.99 for 67-70 pancake mounts

A-833OD with 318-360 bellhousing $550 local purchase

Stock Mopar high torque starter (small body) $159 (Napa no core)

Drive by wire Pedal out of a 3.5 Charger (Junk Yard find) $25

I will post my modifications to the stock wiring harness in detail when I get that finished

There are several forums that deal with the LX/LC side of the new hemi that you can get several Take off parts from like manifolds, rotating assemblies for motors with spun bearings, Timing covers, etc etc.

I highly recommend doing as much of the work yourself as most of this swap is the labor and leg work to get things to work together. I plan on being under 4g when all is said and done and for the most part the ebay engines are 2-4g soooo will I make this a financial good buy I hope so and with the lack of real good info that is freely availible I hope this will help some guys.

Also other members who have done this swap feel free to add to this thread with what parts ahve worked for you and where you feel you scored the best prices.
 
I for one will be looking forward to your progress
 
what are your plans for an oil pan? The truck and car pans will not work. I scored a durango pan that looks like it might work with slight modification. I also have jeep cherokee manifolds that look like they might clear as well. I am going to see if I can squeeze the pacesetter longtube headers that I have from my old truck in there. And see what mods they might need to work. They should have good ground clearance, as they don't hang below the stock truck oilpan. And they will fit inside the factory framerails. I'll keep you posted.
 
03ramit1 said:
what are your plans for an oil pan? The truck and car pans will not work. I scored a durango pan that looks like it might work with slight modification. I also have jeep cherokee manifolds that look like they might clear as well. I am going to see if I can squeeze the pacesetter longtube headers that I have from my old truck in there. And see what mods they might need to work. They should have good ground clearance, as they don't hang below the stock truck oilpan. And they will fit inside the factory framerails. I'll keep you posted.
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Running a modified truck pan I'll post that up when I get it made. I'm basically taking my 318 pan and mating it to the truck pan I have and seeing how well that works out. Jeep manifold are a total go on it Car manifolds are a tight fit but from what I've seen they clear. I'm ordering a set of BBK car shorty's in the next couple weeks so I can report how they fit then.
 
340duster said:
What are you doing for a flywheel, clutch and release bearing?
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5.7 crate motor flywheel from Mopar performance 10.5" clutch disc out of a 340/360 set up and a pressure plate out of a ram. The fork/ release bearing will be stock 340/360 stuff with a home done hydraulic set-up.
 
Thanks for the info. Post pictures as you go, I am interested in doing this swap in the future.
 
I will also be following this thread and hoping for pictures for your hydraulic set up!
 
please let me know how well this goes. I am curious about the OD. I have a 5 speed automatic for mine, but I also have a 4 speed OD. I always thought they would be geared too low and you need a 5th gear to shift to.

please PM me.
 
I'm going to run a 3.73 gear with the od 4 speed since I'm running a 20 inch tall tire the 5 speed is such a pain to get working that I never thought of it being in my budget. Plus with this being a daily driven car when I get it together running the od made the most sense opposed to a 904/727 plus it eliminates the need for another computer.
 
johnparts said:
Running a modified truck pan I'll post that up when I get it made. I'm basically taking my 318 pan and mating it to the truck pan I have and seeing how well that works out. Jeep manifold are a total go on it Car manifolds are a tight fit but from what I've seen they clear. I'm ordering a set of BBK car shorty's in the next couple weeks so I can report how they fit then.
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIL-31000/
I don't think anyone can modify a pan any cheaper than this, including time and tig welding. And that is counting time to "solve" the placement for the pickup tube. If not correctly placed you can foam the oil and starve the motor of lubrication. $204.95
STREET SUMP, ENGINE SWAP Allows the new, high tech Hemi to be installed in 1959-1974 A, B, C, and E body cars. While the Mopar crate motors come with a rear sump pan, that pan will not fit in mid-sump muscle cars. This pan provides a custom fit around the K-member and the drag link and provides an increased power design. Increased oil capacity and oil control are an absolute requirement to handle the demands of higher RPM and increased horsepower. Oil control baffles 100% subdue any unwanted oil movement which results in consistent oil pressure and increased power output. This pan uses the stock dipstick location in the side of the block. While a stock windage tray can be used, the Milodon version is improved and will yield better oil control and power output.
Pan Capacity is 6 Quarts Plus Filter -
6" Sump Depth​
 
44jim said:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIL-31000/
I don't think anyone can modify a pan any cheaper than this, including time and tig welding. And that is counting time to "solve" the placement for the pickup tube. If not correctly placed you can foam the oil and starve the motor of lubrication. $204.95

STREET SUMP, ENGINE SWAP Allows the new, high tech Hemi to be installed in 1959-1974 A, B, C, and E body cars. While the Mopar crate motors come with a rear sump pan, that pan will not fit in mid-sump muscle cars. This pan provides a custom fit around the K-member and the drag link and provides an increased power design. Increased oil capacity and oil control are an absolute requirement to handle the demands of higher RPM and increased horsepower. Oil control baffles 100% subdue any unwanted oil movement which results in consistent oil pressure and increased power output. This pan uses the stock dipstick location in the side of the block. While a stock windage tray can be used, the Milodon version is improved and will yield better oil control and power output.
Pan Capacity is 6 Quarts Plus Filter -


6" Sump Depth​
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yep price has come down on that bad boy right there. Now if the pick-up tube is under 95 bucks I might be swayed in that direction. I mearly wanted to build my own stuff because I'm really impatient and what my car running and on my budget that pan will take me 4 months to save for.
 
44jim said:
For the budget minded people Pacesetter makes a mid tube (shorty) header w/ oxygen sensor bung, bolt on flange to biscuit type mounted (stock) exhaust. Tubes are 1&5/8 painted black for $263.95. These can be found in JC Whitney online catalog. I got a set and they are worth the money, had traded some work for ceramic coating (barter system).

http://www.jcwhitney.com/performanc...cwx?skuId=385666&filterid=c10479d18048y2006j2
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So are those truck headers? How do they fit on the passenger side?
 
I haven't tried them yet. The headers are snug to the heads, at the second tube from flange to bottom of tubes it is 6" ( right at the motor mount). I haven't mounted them yet to see where they end up. I just got an A body Cuda. I originally bought them for my A-100 truck to install the 5.7 Hemi. Due to limited space in the "coffin box" I couldn't install the motor. Thus a new car was in order. Now the Cuda is the candidate.
I will take a picture of them with tape measure in hand. A picture is worth a thousand words. I haven't even got the motor out of the crate yet due to finishing my boat motor first.
 
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These are pretty tight as you can see.
 
Those look like they would dump right into the firewall on an a-body. Just like the truck manifolds do. Especially on the passenger side.
 
those are for a ram. i am actually going to se if pacesetter will work withme on getting a set of headers built for the hemi swap. they are local to me, and I would be more than willing to drop my car off for them to design them once the time comes, or i can build them out of the truck long tubes that i have and see if they will take them and make them for everyone. i will be building my own motor mounts but i will be following the TTI measurements for engine placement of thier headers. so hopefully i can get something going for everyone. who knows we might be able to get the truck headers to fit without a problem.
 
03ramit1 said:
those are for a ram. i am actually going to se if pacesetter will work withme on getting a set of headers built for the hemi swap. they are local to me, and I would be more than willing to drop my car off for them to design them once the time comes, or i can build them out of the truck long tubes that i have and see if they will take them and make them for everyone. i will be building my own motor mounts but i will be following the TTI measurements for engine placement of thier headers. so hopefully i can get something going for everyone. who knows we might be able to get the truck headers to fit without a problem.
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Yeah I used their measurements when I built my mounts just remember they are tight to the passenger side about a good 1/4 inch. With my car I snaked it over a slight bit so I can get the vavle cover on and off without unbolting the motor for the k member.
 
yeah 44JIM those will hit the firewall they need to drop down before the back of the head to clear like the jeep/car manifolds do.
 
They make a set for the 2010 Challenger, full length would these be a better choice? Would these be a better choice/fit? Part # 72-C2242 (ceramic coated) or plain Part # 70-2242. Jegs has them for $293.99 (plain) & dbl. for ceramic.
Cool thing is I can put the ones I have on my Ram ;-)
 
44jim said:
They make a set for the 2010 Challenger, full length would these be a better choice? Would these be a better choice/fit? Part # 72-C2242 (ceramic coated) or plain Part # 70-2242. Jegs has them for $293.99 (plain) & dbl. for ceramic.
Cool thing is I can put the ones I have on my Ram ;-)
Click to expand...
The challenger full length will hit the ground you are better off with the BBK shorties they should fit pretty well and have a nice nickel coating.
 
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