5.7 Hemi swap on the cheap Tips and tricks inside.

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03ramit1 said:
those are for a ram. i am actually going to se if pacesetter will work withme on getting a set of headers built for the hemi swap. they are local to me, and I would be more than willing to drop my car off for them to design them once the time comes, or i can build them out of the truck long tubes that i have and see if they will take them and make them for everyone. i will be building my own motor mounts but i will be following the TTI measurements for engine placement of thier headers. so hopefully i can get something going for everyone. who knows we might be able to get the truck headers to fit without a problem.
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[email protected] or all of us send a request to there tech. dept.
 
44jim said:
or all of us send a request to there tech. dept.
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I have had better luck calling them in the past. Once I talk to them about it I'll start a new thread, because I'm sure they will want a few people intrested before they commit to making them. I'll keep everyone posted here in a few days. I ned to get the motor in the car before I worry about headers. It will probably be 3 weeks or so before I get the motor in. So those of you needing something now it might not work for you. But I'll see what they say.
 
03ramit1 said:
I have had better luck calling them in the past. Once I talk to them about it I'll start a new thread, because I'm sure they will want a few people intrested before they commit to making them. I'll keep everyone posted here in a few days. I ned to get the motor in the car before I worry about headers. It will probably be 3 weeks or so before I get the motor in. So those of you needing something now it might not work for you. But I'll see what they say.
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Hey I'll send you my mounts to speed things up if need be.
 
44jim said:
They make a set for the 2010 Challenger, full length would these be a better choice? Would these be a better choice/fit? Part # 72-C2242 (ceramic coated) or plain Part # 70-2242. Jegs has them for $293.99 (plain) & dbl. for ceramic.
Cool thing is I can put the ones I have on my Ram ;-)
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buy the coated ones. They are more money, but they will look better longer. I have a set of coated long tubes, that I installed on my ram back in 05. The truck saw 100,000 miles with them and they still look good. I bet I could polish them and they would almost look brand new. Try that with painted headers and you will have to paint them every day.
 
johnparts said:
Hey I'll send you my mounts to speed things up if need be.
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thanks for the offer. But I already have mounts. I'm cuttingg the factory brackets off of the ram I have. Then I'll gusset them and call it good. Reason being is I have a slant 6 k member and someone cut the mounts off and put in there own for a 318, and it looks like a blind man did the welding using a stick welder.
 
I just spoke with pacesetter. And they are going to pass my info allong to the Rand D guys. And if they think there is a possibility of selling them then they might consider it. I'll keep everyone posted. If you guys can send in emails that would be great. We need to let them know that there is a market for them it will help.
 
Sent there tech dept. a message right after you said they would possibly make them. Lets hope they realize the market.
 
03ramit1 said:
buy the coated ones. They are more money, but they will look better longer. I have a set of coated long tubes, that I installed on my ram back in 05. The truck saw 100,000 miles with them and they still look good. I bet I could polish them and they would almost look brand new. Try that with painted headers and you will have to paint them every day.
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Sent my Rams into a friend and had them Titanium coated. Nice when you can exchange work for work.
 
on the header discussion do you guys think that these might fit....... it looks like it might be close and i might have to message the firewall a little, or dimple a tube. maybe even relocate one but it might work we will have to see.
 

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nope they will not fit the tubes have to drop straight down about 4-6 inches before they reach the back of the head and then drop back. At least on the passenger side. That head sits right up against the firewall I am lucky to get a finger in between the head and the firewall.
 
Here are the tti headers you can see the tubes go down well before they go back. And here is a picture of the jeep drivers side manifold.
 

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Jeep SRT8 manifolds, fit like a charm, perform like a header (shorty).
 

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well then maybe a little cutting and welding will take care of them then if you notice it's the middle 2 tubes (cyl 4 and 6) that need to be reworked. If I can make the drivers side fit, I'll use them. And modify them and call it good we will see when the motor goes in. I pulled the motor about 15 min before the pic was taken, and have not attempted to mess with it yet. Haveing the pic of the 33% headers will help to get them correct. Thanks for that.
 
Boden posted this in my harness thread and I figured it would be a nice addition to this thread. This is his break down of the harness modifications to get his engine running in his car.
 

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how did you make it work with power brakes? I want them too but was told I have to run manual in order to drop in the hemi.
 
I dont know if there is much difference, but my engine is out of a 06 jeep gc. I had to notch a corner on the head and valve cover on the L side rear. It wont clear the steer column. I had to notch for the alternator in the fender well. I cut out part of the K-frame and boxed it in for the oil filter. You can run a remote system so you dont have to do that. To get the motor in, I had to take out the steer column, and the steer gear box. I left the headers off and had all the steer linkages off. I took the nuts off the brake power booster and tied it to left as far as I could out of the way. It was still a pain. Wraped every thing in card board and with a lot of tilting and cussing I got it in place. There is no room. I slid the headers in thru the bottom, had to pick up with hoist each side of the motor to get room. Getting to bolts in was hell, used a magnet to get them in the hole then came up with contraptions to tighten them up. The bell housing bolts at the top were a nightmare too. lots of prying and had to shorten the bolts. I eliminated the power steering and A/C comp. I didnt want to use the elimination kits for that so I modified my water pump to take a different belt tensioner. I went to the parts store and got a tensioner that had reverse tension from the original, i changed that pulley to a smooth pulley. and I notched a groove and pryed the tensioner in place where the old tensioner fit. Lot of work but it looks and works good. Here are some pics of all that stuff.View attachment 20101118185130.jpg

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