5.9 Magnum help needed

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As I stated above the timing chain braking would not let it fire at all unless it was completely wore out and jumped a notch or two.If you could check with a timing light that would eliminate timing.It is VERY odd that you didn't get any flashes from the codes.You have to do it within 5 seconds for it to register that you want the codes.Check all the fises in the dash and under the hood.
 
mopar410 said:
As I stated above the timing chain braking would not let it fire at all unless it was completely wore out and jumped a notch or two.If you could check with a timing light that would eliminate timing.It is VERY odd that you didn't get any flashes from the codes.You have to do it within 5 seconds for it to register that you want the codes.Check all the fises in the dash and under the hood.
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Ok, so I turn the key to the on position(right before starting it) then I turn it off and then back on and then back off and then back on right? And you said it was the check engine light that was suppose to flash? :/ I didnt get anything when I did that. Just the annoying buzzers as usual. If its not the timing chain im all out of ideas.
 
It should at least flash the "end" code.
I think it's "53", so five flashes, a pause, then three flashes.
 
I used to do the key flashing thing on my 96 until I got a code reader from Harbor Freight, which is much simpler, plus lets you erase the codes. I recall it was only ~$30. I saw them on sale recently for ~$40. I agree that you should get some flashes even if no codes are set. I recall that "5 5" signals "end".

To eliminate the timing chain, valves, pistons, etc, remove a spark plug and hold a finger over the hole as you crank the engine. You should feel strong compression. You only need to check 1 or 2 cylinders. Best to disable the spark by clipping the coil output to ground. Your coil is at the front of the engine near the alternator, with a long spark wire back to the distributor, at least on the Magnum engines I have seen.

If the compression is good, since you have fuel pressure and spark, that points to the fuel injector drive circuits. The best check is "noid lights" that you place in-line to verify they are getting voltage. The control is fairly simple. One wire is +12 V, after the ign, fuel shut-off, and fuses. The other wire is pulled to ground by the computer to turn on the injector, for each short pulse. With a multi-meter or test light, you could check that you at least have +12V on one wire, with the ignition on. However, don't quote me since there could be interlocks that only apply the +12 V when the engine is turning (pretty sure not). If you measure +12 V, try grounding the other terminal briefly and you should hear the injector click on.
 
slimjim said:
Ok, so I turn the key to the on position(right before starting it) then I turn it off and then back on and then back off and then back on right? And you said it was the check engine light that was suppose to flash? :/ I didnt get anything when I did that. Just the annoying buzzers as usual. If its not the timing chain im all out of ideas.
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Yes thats actly how to do it but you do it quick but when you go to "on" pause a moment each time just to let it notice its at on.It really should flash something,either someone bypassed it or the computer has an issue.Did you check all the spark plugs and wires?If its firing and getting "enough" gas it either way out of time,getting no enough fuel or the plugs are completely shot.
BTW does the check engine light come on when you just turn the key on,it should if not the bulb may be shot.O'reillys has a rent-a-tool program and you can use a ODB11 reader.As BillGrissom added the fuel injectors are controled by the computer and if the computer has gone bad it will not send all the signals correctly.
 
i dough it jumped being it has the tensioner in the front on the magnums lets go over a few things do you have spark yes or no do you have pulse at the injectors this easy to figure out take a test light on the pos side of the bat back pin into the injector wire it should pulse if you have nether of them crank position sensor at the back of the block is toasted to blots takes it out easy fix if you have spark and pulls it your distributer pick up easy to change too.:burnout:
 
I FOUND IT! So after 4 hours underneth the hood today I found the problem. I checked all of my injectors and fuel rails, pulled all of my plugs, check a variety of sensors, and pulled all of my fuses/relays. Even though 3 of my plugs are burnt, the problem was the Fuel System relay. I switched it with the ASD relay and sure enough, she fired up. Thank all of you guys for your input. Oh and I tried to get the code again but nothing happened. No blinking. I dont know why but its ok. My truck is back on the road and the girlfriend is now happy. Today is a good day.
 
Congrats,I know how frustrating the hidden problems can be.
 
If its not one thing its another right? Well I drove the truck about 40 miles today without a problem. Once I get back home the truck begins to shake. Then the engine light pops on. It feels like its not balanced. I checked the harmonic balancer and its fine(rubber seal in the balancer went out in my camaro and felt like this). Any ideas? The belt tensioner right under the alt shakes and moves about 10 degress while the engine is running. Is that normal?
 
Did you check your oil for water/signs of a derped head gasket? I have a 318 LA, and it died on the road, started intermittently, drove me batshit for a minute checking ballast resistors and my orange box and staring at a plug trying to discern meaning from shades of brown (as you do), and staring woefully into the guts of my 2bbl Carter trying to see if I need to gick out some tubes. Had spark, nothing weird in the carb. Got it to start up enough to go to the gas station, got home (hearing a nasty miss on the passenger side I couldn't source), and pulled the dipstick to reveal rich, creamy Ovaltine. Probably ruined that motor with the gas station run. But hey, 318's is cheap the world round. I know you just had some fpr issue but sometimes bullshit runs in pairs (or threes).
 
Admittedly, you said you checked all your plugs and seems like you'd see sludge on one of them if you pulled a gasket. Hrm.
 
Alright well Its fixed...for now. It turnned out to be my #2 and 6 ignition wires. I replaced them with some 8mm wires. Now shes back to her old self. Thank you everyone. I really enjoy this forum. My Bcuda is on its way out of the body shop in a week or so so expect pix soon!
 
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