5.9 Magnum into a 73Duster

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Old Geezzer

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Just bought a complete running 5.9 out of a 99 Durango for the Duster. After a good cleaning and check up we'll install it into the duster and start hooking things up. The biggest problem will be hooking up the ECU. Been looking for a good picture of the pinout connectors on the ECU, Bought a Chiltons book for the durango. Its a big help back is still lacking. Even Snap ons shop key didn't have any more info. Does any one have a factory shop manual ? That they can scan for me?
The only other problem is which fuel pump to run out side the tank. Leaning towards edelbrocks pump that they use. I'll just modify the old sender for the new line.
Has anyone else done this yet? Or have I forgot something?
Would really like to get it running right in stock form, then pull it back out for rebuilding/mods.
Thanks, OG


 
I will let others chime in on the wiring.

For fuel system, I would consider running a complete new system. All of the aftermarket hose vendors (Aeroquip, Russell, and Earls) have a light weight press in hose, that is cheaper and easier to work with the the standard braided hose. Either enlarge the stock pickup, or sump a NEW tank, run a prefilter that is 100 micron before the pump to catch the contaminents, and a 10 micron filter after to catch the really small stuff. You should be able to find the adapters needed to connect this to the stock fuel rail, and then return back to the tank. Return away from the inlet as much as possible to reduce cavitation, the number one killer for electric pumps.

In regards to pumps, spend the extra money up front, or you will later. I prefer and recommend aeromotive, as they are quality built, USA product. They can even be mounted in take if desired... Check out an A1000.
 
OLDGEEZER,
A good friend of mine in MN did his a couple years ago, and he loves it! recently He had to replace his tank sending unit. He found a NAPA replacement that was 3/8 line with a fuel return nipple. I just phoned him but no answer. Check back, I'll try and get that part# from him for you.
I went the route of the MoPerf 390HP Efi kit in mine,so I'm no help on your swap, but my friend might be willing to talk to you about his.
He did say that he used as much of his 1970 wiring as he could and the hard part was finding out what wires he could get rid of from the truck harness. I think he finally got it down to only a Pos and Grnd for the comp. and then modified the wiring for the charging system.
You most likely need a year specific wiring schematic, :study: cause some of the color codes change year to year.
Both of us used the new serpentine belt/alternator and ran the charging wire direct to the Batt. We both still need to convert or modify our ameter/voltmeter to get a correct reading gauge. that hasnt stopped us from drivin tho. :rock:
 
Thanks for the info Charger 70. It would be nice to talk/type with him. Being that the wiring in my Duster has been hack so bad we are just going to redo completely.My amp gauge was toast so custom gauges are in order
I wonder what year his is? I thinking that one of my biggies will be the duel o2 sensors as I will only have one sensor. But time will tell. We head out tomorrow to pull it out of the Durango. Can't wait to get it in the Duster. :toothy10:
 
I remeber seeing a post with pics where a guy had the late model Charger in-tank pump assembly frenched into his stock tank. I dont recall what forum. Had to be here or moparstyle. Anyway its a alternative to a noisey external pump. My local dealerships have let me borrow service manuals with a hundred dollar security deposit. Keep in mind that vehicles with ECUs have isolated grounds all the way down to light fixtures to protect the ECU from current spikes. That may be old school today but it was a problem in the early 80s.
 
I agree with others on a high output fuel pump outside tank. On the 5.9 R/T truck crowd we put in the Walbro 255 gph in tank pumps in. They work great. Also when you do mod it, find a M1 2 barrel, with a 53 mm throttle body, and some 1.7 ratio roller rockers with stock cam, with aftermarket 1.6 ratio. Will make some nice little numbers. Dan
 
Redfish is right about an intank pump being quieter. Mine is on the pax side frame rail above rear axle and its noisy. I'm havin too much fun driving it for now, but eventually itl annoy me enough that i'll have to fix it, or replace it. Try to rubber isolate it at least, that will be my first try before replacing mine.
I've had one for 20 years on my 68 Runner that isnt bad at all, its rubber mounted but its also low press for a carb.
 
I helped a friend put a 97 360 into a Challenger. When we first started One thing I did was I divided the computer into 2 groups, inputs and outputs. I took all the things that the engine had to see to get it running. Inputs being constant 12, switched 12, tps, crank pos, dist (cam sens), map sens, engine temp. 2 or 3 O2's Outputs, injestors. coil, gen , shut down relay, AIS CEL. There is probly more but thats all that comes to mind. If your donor is from a 96 up and has an auto trans and your not going with the 518, it will set codes and not sure if it will set the CEL. So if thats the case I would change to a Mannual controller.
Are running a stick or auto with this? And is an auto, 904,727 or the 518? Was the controller from an auto or man trans?
One thing he did do is he went with the old style water pump and belts, he also used the old alt with externel reg, which did work but I would just use the alt out from the computer on a new style alt with serpintine belt.

Hope this helps you.
 
My friends was from a 96-97, I think he is only runnin one O2. He has headers and dual exhaust so he is only reading one side. it just shows up as a fault code when he checked the OBD2.
Mine only reads one side too.
Maybe your aware already, check the fuel press and make sure it is well regulated.
I believe mine only has a 3psi or so operating range.
He put an 833 4spd behind his,and had to machine up and modify a flywheel, so he also has an auto trans fault code that shows up.
If you have the skills or a buddy willing to tackle the floor mods, I'd highly recommend adding the Overdrive. Mine has a 1993 a518 with lockup, and 3.91 gears. With 25" tall tires, its turns 2350rpm at 65mph and 2725 at 75.
 
Thanks for all your help guys. The engine is out of an auto 4x4 durango. At this point were not sure about staying with OEM computer. May go to one that is user programible. Never thought of one out of a stick. Staying with the serpintine belt for the lighter AC compressor ETC.

My trans for now is 904, but looking for a 727, but not set into stone. MMMm may have to start looking for a 518
I really don't what a carb on this combo. Want a little old school with a twist.

thanks Again, Paul
 
Old geezzer, when we finished the 360 smpi 74 Challenger it had TTI headers with duals, a dakota cold air and under drive pulleys for the V belt and that car really went good. I would say it went better than my 73 340 Challenger. It had just the stock computer and with the 518 and it will do 25 MPG on the highway, in an A body a lighter car it would have to at least do the same. We did have some trouble initially but it wsa do to a bad connection on the wiring harness to the map sensor other than that it started up and runs great. The only problem you will have is the back of the trans on a 518 is larger than the car will except so you will need to do some tunnel mods.
 
The 5.9 is in the garage. So now the fun starts. LOL. Still thinking of the 518 trans. Just what year and model should I look for?

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This is info that I came up with, so it might not be 100% right. The 518 was used on both 5.2/318 and 5.9/360. The forward clutch pack in the 318 version has 1 less clutch disk than the 360 version, but you can use alot of standard 727 parts so its pretty easy to get the pieces to upgrade. I was told either one would be just fine for a stock 5.9.
From the start up thru 1992 they were non lockup converters and used a 2pin connector (on left side by shift arm) to control the OD. so the 2 pin only needs one switch you have access to for on off.
93 thru maybe 1997? they used lockup converters and a 3 pin connector. These you need to to control both the OD and lockup. Here is a link to some very good info. http://www.transmissioncenter.net/SwapInformation.htm
On the right side of the trans you can see the pressure switches that came with their kit. The vacuum switch is on the cowl behind the carb. I just tee'd into the distributer vacuum line.
Somewhere after 97 the are electricly shifted so you need a late computer or stand alone controler.
Aftermarket lockup converters are more expensive too, right now a TCI Sat Night Special from Summit is 243.00 and the Lockup one is 420.00, and there is more off the shelf selections for non lock 727s.
I think you would be happy with either one.
Lockup will be more expensive overall but has the better gas mileage when crusing.
One caveat about a nonlockup is if you run a high stall -say 3000- or so, in OD you might be crusing around 2500RPM and slipping the convertor most of the time. Obviously a lower stall convertor or lower gears are needed for that not to happen.
After I said all that here is a string of photos of my floor pan mods just to scare you. :pale:
Unfortunatly you have to do something like this, the a518 is way fatter in the OD section.
I made sure to keep it compact so I could keep my bench seats. I bought a Harbor Freight trans jack cause I had the tranny in and out about 5 times to check clearances.

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I jacked the tranny a little higher than needed for correct driveshaft alignment. That way there is plenty of room for adjustment. then bent some flatstock metal around an acetylene tank and tweaked it to fit around the trans. I welded a 5/16 round bar to the front and rear of that piece then welded another flat over the top of the roundbar. the round bar left a nice gap for weld penetration. On the driver side I had cut about an inch out of the crossmember and moved the trans mount bolt holes to the left that amount. Not real clear but if you look close you can see where the crossmember got welded back together. I maybe should have done that to the right side too. I think it would have been easier to fab up the up-n-over piece. I made the trans mount with a 3/8 inch spacer installed for more possible adjustment.

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Heres a final shot in the Cannery Casino at this years Mopars at the Strip in Las Vegas.
You cant see it in this shot but there is a 5.9 Magnum complete with A/C and a serpentine belt system in there now too.

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Still column shift at this time. But will be looking floor shifters went the time comes.

Nice work on your trans swap.And the Duster !!! :-D
 
My friend called me this morn and said he would be happy to talk with you.
I sent you a Private Message last night with my ph#
did you get it?
 
The 99 ecu will freak out unless the trans has provisions for a crank sensor and everything. If you are going with a 518 you might have to talk to hemifever on the moparts site about doing a sct flash for you. This will let you run what ever trans you would like. I have the wiring codes for a 2000 dakota RT not sure if it will match up to your 99 or not. The whole manual is 100 megs so I will see if I can seperate it out for you if you like. PM me if you would like this portion of the manual.
Rob
 
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