500+ horse 440

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Duster2022!

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I have a 78 440 I am wanting to build and try to get at least 500 horse out of it.
I would like a large cam with lots of lope( love that sound)
I am kind of on a budget of course so does any one have any component combo suggestions?

Cam?
Heads?
Pistons?
Intake?
Running a 727 trans with shift kit not sure if going with stall converter ?
 
An old super easy combo to get 500hp+ is a 4.15 stroker kit, Mopar .484 cam, and 906 heads ported with the old MP templates and makes what you're after and is a great street car engine. Of course, more cam, better heads, and really tuning it can get you a lot more.
 
Furious65 said:
An old super easy combo to get 500hp+ is a 4.15 stroker kit, Mopar .484 cam, and 906 heads ported with the old MP templates and makes what you're after and is a great street car engine. Of course, more cam, better heads, and really tuning it can get you a lot more.
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Thanks. Will that cam produce the low lopping sound like it’s barely running?
 
Find a copy of Don Dulmage's book, "Old Reliable: The Practical 440 Race Motor". They're rare, but out there. Stock stroke, iron heads. Keep it simple.
 
446 with flat top pistons, steel shim head gaskets, 509 cam[for lopey sound], Sd, TM7, or Performer RPM intake. 850 DP. 906 heads mild ported w/good valve job. 500 hp. You'll need at least a 3800 converter or it will be a dog.
 
Stock stroke, good machine work. Flat top pistons. E street heads. Performer rpm intake. Talk to a professional about cam choice.
 
Duster2022! said:
Thanks. Will that cam produce the low lopping sound like it’s barely running?
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On that setup, no. You would need to bump up to a bigger cam.

I think the big thing is what is this engine being built for? Is this for a weekend bracket racer, a streeter, or ??? My recommendation is for a good running street engine that doesn't require a huge cam, lots of stall, steep gears, or anything really more race orientated. Others are recommending setups that achieve the same hp goal, and much better on the lopey sound requirement than my recommendation, but they are different in their approach and end use, IMO.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Find a copy of Don Dulmage's book, "Old Reliable: The Practical 440 Race Motor". They're rare, but out there. Stock stroke, iron heads. Keep it simple.
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Man I searched this and found nada Got a hit "Google books" but I can't figure out how to "operate that"
 
Carnut68 said:
446 with flat top pistons, steel shim head gaskets, 509 cam[for lopey sound], Sd, TM7, or Performer RPM intake. 850 DP. 906 heads mild ported w/good valve job. 500 hp. You'll need at least a 3800 converter or it will be a dog.
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I was only being sarcastic about 509 cam, but he said lumpy idle. There are better cams out there.
 
I think I might look into this build

68550A84-158B-441D-907E-CBEB41C62BEA.png
 
'70 challenger brkt car, no guesses/dyno runs or glossy quoted top end packages, this is from the track and goes on weight/mph.
446ci, 10.8:1, 300cfm MCH ported Eddy heads, 1.6 rockers, .580 SFT cam [email protected]
M1, port matched cleaned up, 830cfmDP
1.7/8" hdrs, 3700lbs+@line 11.06@121, 1.54 60ft's = 540>550fwhp...street/strip car

My old school build, 440-6pk bottom end, BV 906 heads (250>260cfm?), Team G, 850DP, .650/[email protected] sft cam, 9.7:1cr
2" hdrs, 10.71@125@3300lbs@line = 511>515fwhp...this was a race only car.

And the last, 440, 12.5:1, MCH ported Eddy heads, [email protected], DC. 590 sft, [email protected], Victor intake, 1050 Dominator, 3150@line, 10.12@132 = 600fwhp...........just for reference.
 
Carnut68 said:
I was only being sarcastic about 509 cam, but he said lumpy idle. There are better cams out there.
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Definitely. My proven recipe is TRW 6-pack (L2355F) pistons, recon'd LY rods with ARP bolts, ANY 440 crank (cast is fine, with external balance items in place), ANY year 440 block. Fully ported and polished iron heads (906/452, etc.) with 2.14x1.81 valves and Comp #925 double springs. Use the XE285HL cam from Comp Cams with the best (preferably old shelf stock from the '80s/90s) lifters and Isky/Crane iron adjustable rockers with good 3/8" cup/ball pushrods. With a Street Dominator, M1, Torker or TM7 single plane intake or a RPM dual plane, you'll need a HP950 or 850DP Holley. Use 1-7/8" headers and straight through mufflers (not Flowmaster or other chambered mufflers) for best results.

This will get you there, but a few improvements can be made for (arguably) a few more bucks. KB237 flat top pistons (Keith Black UEM) are an upgrade with better valve reliefs, just gap the rings properly, or any lightweight forged pistons (Diamond/JE/Ross, etc.) would require balancing but are worth HP. Also aluminum heads like TrickFlow, ProMaxx, Edelbrock, Stealth 440 Source, etc. are worth quite a bit more HP when prepped. I'm not too big on hydraulic roller cams, but a small mechanical cam, flat tappet or roller add some complication but an easy power increase. Something around [email protected]" lift and under .600" lift (for spring and lifter life) will fit the bill. Of course a 499-512 kit for some more $$$ will boost the horsepower some and torque a bunch, but one can have plenty of fun for the dollar with the basic 3.75" stroke setup.

In terms of in-vehicle performance, my 446 (.030" over) built like my recipe above, with the RPM manifold, and 1-3/4 shorty headers (due to the chassis) runs high 12s in the quarter and low 8s in the 1/8mi in a 5300 pound (including me) Gran Fury Suburban wagon. So in a B body, figure 7.50s and low 12s, and in a Duster or Dart etc. plan on low 7s possibly high 6s in the 1/8 and 11s in the 1/4mi.
 
Duster2022! said:
Not a dreamer I have plenty of cash to build whatever, just asking for advice, if you don’t have anything other than sarcasm get a life
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Nothing wrong with choosing a cam because you want it lumpy. It's your money, spend it so it makes you happy. I recommend the Comp Thumpr lines or the Hughes Whiplash cams. Either or will sound and run good.
 
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