550-600HP 4spd suspension help

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Man iam surprised it takes so much to make this thing hook i thought a fwd would require alot more work and $ pretty much just a set of axles once over 400whp good engine and trans mounts and good front end bushing and your good to go and it hooks pretty good in a 3400lb car. Although the power comes on alot differnt its soft on the bottom and comes on like a big hit of nitrous.
 
440dart123 said:
Does the houseing just sit in them brakets and the ladder bars control the twist by the look of it as iam not sure how them work but it looks like the still clamp to the springs and would still twist the springs just as if it was stock or is the houseing able to move? or am i wrong all together lol
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Those spring mounts do not clamp the housing. It's a snug enough fit that doesn't allow vibration, but does allow rotation and the slider part lets the springs move independently of the housing. That's where the ladders come in to control the housings rotational movement. It's a little hard to describe without writing pages, but you have more tuning capability with that set up.

The original Mopar leaf spring design is the best in the business. The short front, long rear leaf setup allows for a stiff front half and a rear half that can flex and work to put downward force to the tires. But like anything else, there is a limit before a upgrade will bring better results. The stock system with a tight snubber or even with Caltracs tends to hit the tires hard because the energy (instant center) is higher and more rearward. That tends to give more downforce to the housing and more upward motion to the car. For moderate track applications, it's gold. But when you're making big power and hitting the suspension hard with a big converter or a stick, you want the tunability of a ladder or four link system to get more forward movement vs upward movement. With a ladder and especially a 4 link, you can move the instant center forward in the car and soften the hit and allow for more forward motion. The beauty of a tunable system like this is, you move the capabilities from the springs and shocks to the ladder bars and shocks plus you don't have to work the springs nearly as hard.

This is probably all for nought since you will be mainly on the street. My thoughts about this was concerning your track outings, especially with a small tire, stick and 600hp.

Hope some of this made any sense.....:D.
 
440dart123 said:
Does the houseing just sit in them brakets and the ladder bars control the twist by the look of it as iam not sure how them work but it looks like the still clamp to the springs and would still twist the springs just as if it was stock or is the houseing able to move? or am i wrong all together lol
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ill add this to the above statment. see those 2 tubes on the left and that oblong piece of metal in between them and just up a tad, that what keeps the housing centered. after you get all the stuff bolted to your springs you sit the rear on it and bolt the top piece onto the rest, it's the piece just above the oblong piece of metal. now you center the rear in the body, measure real careful, put the tires on and remeasure to be sure you have good/same clearance on both sides,. now take that oblong piece and tack it in between the slider brackets at the top on the housing. remove the top bracket and finish welding it on. then install top bracket and set pinion angle.
 
Having been down this road myself I will say this.

Spend good money ONCE.

Start at the rear of the car work forward. Put a Dana in it, get a clutch the slips, and stay away from leaf springs.

An Pro-shifted 833 will stand up fine.

The reason i say stay away from leafs is that I broke the center bolts on my car, and it was a scary ride.

Mini tub the car, move the springs inboard and run a 10" tire. While your at it put ladder bars and good double adjustable shocks aswell.

There is alot more to running a stick car than people realize.


It's the torque that will kill the driveline, and once it dead hooks, you'll find your weaknesses quite easily.

I'm not trying to discourage you, I'm just sharing my experience.


Todd
 
Dana 60. 4 Link.

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Is that rearend suspended at the intended ride height?
 
skep419 said:
search mshred on moparts
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never really had problems as the reason for the switch...more like trying to go FAST and not having the money to stay with the stickshift.

My car wasn't hooking properly, but that was not rocket science to fix- car needed way more gear (which I didn't want with a street car), and would have benefitted from having monoleafs to go with the caltrac setup and the new strange D/A's and singles I added. With plans to add quite a bit more power, I didn't want to chance breaking both of my A833's since they were worth more together than in pieces from trying to go deep 10's...I swore up and down I would never go auto, but I just couldn't afford the price of a $2500 used Jerico (and I looked for a LONG time), plus clutch, to go along with it (if I was going to do it, I was going to do it RIGHT), so I am building a 904 3 speed....One day the car may go back to a stick, but as of right now I saved a ton of money going to an auto, and being 23 money is TIGHT.

I will say though, the 4 speed was a blast when I didn't miss gears, and leaving at 5500rpms off a two step and powershifting was just an awesome feeling
 
mshred said:
never really had problems as the reason for the switch...more like trying to go FAST and not having the money to stay with the stickshift.

My car wasn't hooking properly, but that was not rocket science to fix- car needed way more gear (which I didn't want with a street car), and would have benefitted from having monoleafs to go with the caltrac setup and the new strange D/A's and singles I added. With plans to add quite a bit more power, I didn't want to chance breaking both of my A833's since they were worth more together than in pieces from trying to go deep 10's...I swore up and down I would never go auto, but I just couldn't afford the price of a $2500 used Jerico (and I looked for a LONG time), plus clutch, to go along with it (if I was going to do it, I was going to do it RIGHT), so I am building a 904 3 speed....One day the car may go back to a stick, but as of right now I saved a ton of money going to an auto, and being 23 money is TIGHT.

I will say though, the 4 speed was a blast when I didn't miss gears, and leaving at 5500rpms off a two step and powershifting was just an awesome feeling
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Thanks for the info guys sorry been busy here at the shop been awhile since i logged back on, put in a rebuilt trans and all new from the shifter down linkage ect in the superbee and holy crap ive never shifted a better feeling a833 they have always been old 40yr old crap that moves 2-3inchs before you feel any tension. Its really surpriseing on how much skill is involved in shifting one of these cars i can flatfoot shift my newer turbo car thats cable shifted very easily but these bulky a833s are a differnt story take some serious set of balls and skill Ronnie Sox is amazeing and a legend.
 
345man2 said:
not hijacking but will the super stocks hook if you run two of the same spring so it seats level and maybe add a block so level the car up ?
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Monumentally bad idea.
The SS springs use different segment lengths , clamping and have quite a bit of research into them.
You would nullify all the data collected and put into making them what they are by doing this.
If you are worried about ride height and looks , SS springs aren't for you.
Making a stick shift car hook can be done , but the many voices of experience posted so far tell us why so many race cars use automatics.
 
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