I got these 20 years ago. Been in cold storage ever since. Have a little shall I say porting. They were/are 1.88 but came with 2.02s. What do u guys think. Thanks. Kim
587 heads
- Thread starter oldkimmer
- Start date
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abdywgn
dismantler
are they a known good set? if not, pressure check before cleaning up and using.
Yes, they are supposed to be good. They are not really ported into the bowls very much. A fair bit of material wasn’t even touched. I know my pics are crappy. The intake is where they missed. The exhaust looks decent. I guess they should flow better than stock. Kim
PRH
Well-Known Member
If they’re 1.88 now, they always were.
You can go from 1.88 > 2.02.
From 2.02 > 1.88...... not so much.
From what I can tell, it looks like they have the factory valve seats/valve job.
Depending on what condition the guides are in, and what your intentions for the heads are...... it could be fairly cheap to get them into serviceable condition...... or it could get expensive pretty quick.
Edit: Just looked again.....they have replacement guides in them now.
If they’re sized correctly(or at least, not too big now)..... that’ll save you some $$.
Edit 2: did you mean the heads came to you with 2.02 valves, but have not been cut for them yet?
If so....... there will need to be more porting done after the seats are cut for the bigger valves.
Porting comment: the exhaust ports have more work done to them than would be necessary for the amount of work done to the intake ports.
You can go from 1.88 > 2.02.
From 2.02 > 1.88...... not so much.
From what I can tell, it looks like they have the factory valve seats/valve job.
Depending on what condition the guides are in, and what your intentions for the heads are...... it could be fairly cheap to get them into serviceable condition...... or it could get expensive pretty quick.
Edit: Just looked again.....they have replacement guides in them now.
If they’re sized correctly(or at least, not too big now)..... that’ll save you some $$.
Edit 2: did you mean the heads came to you with 2.02 valves, but have not been cut for them yet?
If so....... there will need to be more porting done after the seats are cut for the bigger valves.
Porting comment: the exhaust ports have more work done to them than would be necessary for the amount of work done to the intake ports.
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Yes they are 1.88 now. I got new 2.02 valves with them. Im gonna get them checked later next week to see what I got. Kim
10.5 -1 340. 270/470 Comp cam. Old grind. Just street duty. The do have new guides that seem to be sized to the valves. Kim
With that set up,.... and you can get away with a clean up on the seat......I would stick with the 1.88 and concentrate on a good 65/75 degree bowl cut, too go with the valve grind/job
A lot cheaper then having the 2.02 cut and will make a nice jump in cfm with the bowl cut to go with the porting/clean up done before.
60/75 degree bowl cut, opens up the throat a lot, and at this stage will breath better.
A lot cheaper then having the 2.02 cut and will make a nice jump in cfm with the bowl cut to go with the porting/clean up done before.
60/75 degree bowl cut, opens up the throat a lot, and at this stage will breath better.
PRH
Well-Known Member
“If it were me”...... they’d get hardened ex seats installed.
And I’d put the 2.02’s in.
And I’d put the 2.02’s in.
I’ll see what Max1196 has to say when he checks them. Kim
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
Agree with PRH about the seats I'd use the Dura Bond good sintered seats
Not knowing anything about what you want to do with these heads...
I'll post an "if it were me" anyway"
If street and a half inch or less lift cam and not a bunch of overlap
I'd take those too big 2.02 valves and put a 30 degree face on them and them fit them to the current top cut then reduce their od to give a good margin, maybe even a radius
then while cutting the new seats I'd do a pro valve job and open the throats then blend the bottom cut
Agree with PRH about the seats I'd use the Dura Bond good sintered seats
Not knowing anything about what you want to do with these heads...
I'll post an "if it were me" anyway"
If street and a half inch or less lift cam and not a bunch of overlap
I'd take those too big 2.02 valves and put a 30 degree face on them and them fit them to the current top cut then reduce their od to give a good margin, maybe even a radius
then while cutting the new seats I'd do a pro valve job and open the throats then blend the bottom cut
Not knowing anything about what you want to do with these heads...
I'll post an "if it were me" anyway"
If street and a half inch or less lift cam and not a bunch of overlap
I'd take those too big 2.02 valves and put a 30 degree face on them and them fit them to the current top cut then reduce their od to give a good margin, maybe even a radius
then while cutting the new seats I'd do a pro valve job and open the throats then blend the bottom cut
Agree with PRH about the seats I'd use the Dura Bond good sintered seats
Not knowing anything about what you want to do with these heads...
I'll post an "if it were me" anyway"
If street and a half inch or less lift cam and not a bunch of overlap
I'd take those too big 2.02 valves and put a 30 degree face on them and them fit them to the current top cut then reduce their od to give a good margin, maybe even a radius
then while cutting the new seats I'd do a pro valve job and open the throats then blend the bottom cut
See post #8. Kim
It seems these heads are actually pretty good shape. I’m probably gonna use them on a 340 with 10.5 pistons and a cam just around .500 lift or alittle more. I have had many parts for 20/30 years that I can use in a 340 or 2 or 3 and maybe sell them off. Or build a low compression 360. Kim
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
whats in post 8 kim?
maybe 1.94
2.02 takes a lot of port work
more than I could do with the serdi and a bowl blend
maybe 1.94
2.02 takes a lot of port work
more than I could do with the serdi and a bowl blend
Wymrider, That’s a 340 I have parts that I can build. So better to keep with 1.88 intake valves? Kim
oldkimmer here are just some spec to chew on. Forget about the numbers and just look at the flow differences.
First is bone stock 188 tulp intake valve and lots of carbon on the valve. I'm just going to give the highest flow numbers and lift.( note these heads had some bowl work done on them before but stock 188 intake valve with a standard valve job.)
1.88 valve 200.9@600 lift. That is what my virgin bone stock X heads flow.(un touch aka no bowl work or anything.)
Back cut on 188 valve and clean carbon off of valve 201.8@600 lift
2.02 seat cut in and a 38 top cut 45 seat, and a 60/75 bowl cut [email protected] lift
Ground on the valve guide and clean up the port similar to what you did. [email protected] lift (Note .474 was my cam lift at that time. So i tested at .100,.200,.300 .400 .474.,.500 and .600 lift)
Smooth up the port some more and radioed the 60/70 cut [email protected] lift
Re cut seat with a 35 top cut this time and 45 seat, 60/70 bowl cut and only smooth bottom 70 cut into the bowl. [email protected] lift.
At this point my flow number when in the toilet as my focus was flow at 600 lift and cut sever holes in these head trying to do so.
my notes say that i changed, and tested, 22 more time before i settled for 261@500 and 261@600 lift and moved on to the next intake port
Figured out later, along with many other things, that the chamber was my problem.
Any how, my point to all of this is that a GOOD performance valve job, will get you further, much faster, then any porting in the port. After that it just, nickles and dime in gain, that you loose the next time you go after another.
First is bone stock 188 tulp intake valve and lots of carbon on the valve. I'm just going to give the highest flow numbers and lift.( note these heads had some bowl work done on them before but stock 188 intake valve with a standard valve job.)
1.88 valve 200.9@600 lift. That is what my virgin bone stock X heads flow.(un touch aka no bowl work or anything.)
Back cut on 188 valve and clean carbon off of valve 201.8@600 lift
2.02 seat cut in and a 38 top cut 45 seat, and a 60/75 bowl cut [email protected] lift
Ground on the valve guide and clean up the port similar to what you did. [email protected] lift (Note .474 was my cam lift at that time. So i tested at .100,.200,.300 .400 .474.,.500 and .600 lift)
Smooth up the port some more and radioed the 60/70 cut [email protected] lift
Re cut seat with a 35 top cut this time and 45 seat, 60/70 bowl cut and only smooth bottom 70 cut into the bowl. [email protected] lift.
At this point my flow number when in the toilet as my focus was flow at 600 lift and cut sever holes in these head trying to do so.
my notes say that i changed, and tested, 22 more time before i settled for 261@500 and 261@600 lift and moved on to the next intake port
Figured out later, along with many other things, that the chamber was my problem.
Any how, my point to all of this is that a GOOD performance valve job, will get you further, much faster, then any porting in the port. After that it just, nickles and dime in gain, that you loose the next time you go after another.
Thank u very much cf. I thought that since I have the 2.02 valves I would use them,but I’m not opposed to using 1.88s. I’ll just have to get some new ones. Then that would save a lot of blending out to the bigger valve seat. kim
my recommendation at first was a 1.88 valve But! the 2.02 will give you more cfm, threw the hole lift curve.
It will just cost more to do it.
clean seat and throw some angles on it cheap.
But if you going to put hardened seats in it, you might as well get the intake seat for a 2.02 cut while you there. And i do recommend the hardened seats(exhaust seats)
It will just cost more to do it.
clean seat and throw some angles on it cheap.
But if you going to put hardened seats in it, you might as well get the intake seat for a 2.02 cut while you there. And i do recommend the hardened seats(exhaust seats)
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Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
good tech cuda
focus on your valve lift numbers
and the most below that
keep the velocity up
focus on your valve lift numbers
and the most below that
keep the velocity up
Marcohotrod
Well-Known Member
what year are these heads? what year did mopar start hardening exhaust seats, around 1973? my heads were machined for larger valves quickly on a Serdi machine at 30 45 60 70. we found that a heavy truck or boat needs hard exhaust seats . a car with quality stainless valves not so much. my 1970 340 with Manley racemaster valves and solid lifters is still good around .020" lash since 1995
The exhaust seats that have/ had the "leaded gas" or has had lead added to the gas for a while will still be there for a long time on the exhaust valve/seat. If a valve job is done, the lead is gone.
I think the factory induction hardened seats came out with the magnum motors......
I think the factory induction hardened seats came out with the magnum motors......
1973 heads. The first year for induction hardening. They are supposed to have the induction hardened seats. But I’m not sure u can grind them much b4 the hardening is gone. Well that’s what I’ve been told. Idk if a serdi removes more or less metal. Kim
These heads have been on the shelf since the early 90s. Kim
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