6.1 hemi 6013 msd

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cnddodgehead

cnddodgehead

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Looking for some feed back on the do's and don'ts when wiring the MSD 6013 into my factory wiring harness...... I am driving a 70 cuda . (I know I know its an ebody . but you guys over here seem to have a great forum.) Hope you can help
 
You may find the Cam and Crank sensor on the motor are not compatible with the 6013 harness...depending on which MY the engine is and which harness you bought.

This is no big deal - you can either scavenge the plugs off a factory harness and splice them in - or - change the sensors to the correct type to suit the harness.

The only other "trick" I came across is I strongly suggest you locate the ECU inside the passenger cabin.....Its a lot of $$ to "cook" in the engine bay.

Last - if you run a factory tach - you may need the appropriate MSD tach adapter.
 
Thanks ..the issue I did find is that the crank sensor is different ... I hate splicing wires unless I have to.. So im going to order A new sensor...

Need some input on where To hard wire it in to the factory harness

I curious to see about ballast resistor . I bought the M.P.1P3690731 constant output.. I also have others as well... should it stay or go or be updated ?
I've seen some with it some without..
 
sorry I bought a mopar performance constant output voltage regulator P3690731
 
my biggest concern is wiring into the factory harness ... any help is greatly appreciated
 
Not sure what you mean about wiring into the factory harness?

The MSD harness is a stand alone ignition harness that is plugged into the 6013 ECU.

The ECU harness also has provision to be connected to 12V constant, 12v switched and an earth from memory -

Its not designed to be used with the factory PCM...it assumes you are either using a carb or an aftermarket EFI controller.
 
Cool .
What im am looing for is the best way to wire the msd into the factory engine compartment harness?
I have seen some guys use the ballast resistor and some not... should it stay or should it go?
I have purchased the constant voltage regulator part #P3690731
I have heard about the alternator as well ... looking for advise on it as well ?

Thanks in advance!
 
OK -

The REd/Green wire of the 6013 runs off SWITCHED 12 volts - this means you need to find a wire that is only active when the ignition switch is turned to "run/start" - IOW not constant 12v when the ignition is off.

You do not use the ballast resistor - which means you will have to rewire your ignition circuit to bypass the ballast .

Using the ballast means you are feeding the 6013 less voltage than it requires to operate correctly. It may still work..but why do something "out of spec" The 6013 instructions clearly state what is required.

[ame]http://download.telematica.gr/MSD/6013.pdf[/ame]

Lastly...you retain your external regulator (as long as it is the later transitorised type) - Your alternator will have two regulator pins that were used by the factory to connect to the PCM.

In your case, as you are not using a PCM, just an ECU - you connect one of these pins to the Green Field pin on your regulator, and the other pin goes to 12V SWITCHED.
 
ok I am following you.. I will look at the harness again ....

Only other question is the voltage reg. are you familiar with the one im using
M.P. #P3690731.

Will it work? voltage holds at 13.5 volts
 
cnddodgehead said:
ok I am following you.. I will look at the harness again ....

Only other question is the voltage reg. are you familiar with the one im using
M.P. #P3690731.

Will it work? voltage holds at 13.5 volts
Click to expand...

No Im not familiar with the US style , Aussie cars ran the Bosch RE55 , but I understand the wiring for the Alt to the Reg is the same - irrespective.
 
wiring is the same . difference is that rather than regulating the voltage . it holds it at a constant 13.5 volts . with the newer alternator that puts out a higher voltage I thought this might be a better way . but that's why I'm asking. trying to make sure
 
I have seen most guys are wiring into the point where the resistor was . anyone have a diagram on this.. ??
 
Shouldn't be a problem at 13.5v to my knowledge. Most cars are supposed to run over 12v or the battery would never charge. Technically speaking I think the standard output is usually closer to 14.4v. Seeing as MSD is a pretty old company I would certainly hope that they would understand and design around the rather "dirty" power that runs through cars. Been running my MSD box on a old factory electronic regulator with no issues for a few years now.
 
I seem to have the same feelings about it just as you . trying to see if anyone else has used this combination
 
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