6.1 Hemi going in to its new HOME!!!

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69DarttoArt

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Okay fellows, here it goes. Here are the pics of the 2010 6.1 Hemi crate motor from Bouchillon Performance going into its new home in the 69 Dart.
Here are some progress pics, the undercarriage turned out pretty damn good with the undercoating and satin black chassis paint. There is one pic of the engine bay that shows the "color shift" of the "Tangelo Pearl Orange" paint, just the viewing angle that the camera caught. One pic shows the steel ring that must be removed in rear crankshaft hole to fit the auto torque convertor. Back in Kansas for 2 weeks, can't wait to get back home and start on the wiring.
Peace Out
 

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Yeah I could me mistaken but there is about double the room vs my Hemi in my 75 duster. With that k member. I need all the room possible to run my headers forward. And that looks like the ticket. I also need to know if it will accept rack and pinion steering as well. (again for space)
 
Can you post photos of the engine mounts and K-frame? They look to be from the same manufacturer, unless you custom painted them. What is the loop on the front of the K-member for?
 
The K frame is from Rielly Motor Sprots (Alterkation). I would guess the loop is for winching on a trailer. Just my two cents.
 
Always nice to see a 6.1 go into another car, If you are interested I am doing the same in my duster if you wanna take a look.

You will need to take off the intake to run the wiring.

It is looking good. I like the color of the car as well.

Look forward to more pics of the progress
 
They are costly, I love mine. I would say all the aftermarket systems are not cheap. There are a couple of guy that have done factory upgrades with nice results. One guy has a 68 Cuda, I think he goes by AutoX.
 
I think I am one of the few that are using the factory K-member with the 6.1
 
looks nice
how about the fan specs. brand....size....flow....?

thanks
 
t-granger said:
I think I am one of the few that are using the factory K-member with the 6.1
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I currently have the stocker, but since I'm build a twin turbo setup, there is not any room to get the headers forward, unless I run really small tubing then what's the point my goal 1000rwhp (or more) and little primary's will not get me there. After talking with my header guy (builds pro mod exhaust) we need at least 1.75in tubing there is just no room with the stock k member. I flat our refuse to spend $5000 on a few tubes welded together. He'll my Dana rear has mossier 35 spline axles, Detroit locker, yukon gears and every upgrade I could come up with, and even after adding in my ladder bars and coil overs we are just starting to touch the $5000 mark. So to drop that on a measly chunk of tubing to support a motor and front wheels is assinine. I'm looking hard at the bob's pro fab set up though it's $3700. (still outrageous but better) seems like it would work fir what I want.

Sorry for the rant. It's just crazy what people think mopar parts are worth. I'm sorry it's only 300 in tubing at the most. If I understood steering geometry a little better I would build my own. Look like I might have to take a class.
 
03ramit1 said:
If I understood steering geometry a little better I would build my own. Look like I might have to take a class.
Click to expand...

Not trying to knock you so don't take it that way but that is what you are paying for. I't easy to stick a needle in someones rear but knowing when and with what is why you pay a doctor $200 to do it.
It took me quite a long time to justify the expense of going with the alterk but in the end I relented. I know what I want out of my build and even though I have done pretty well at saving money on some things, this was the one thing I knew would get me to my final goal.
 
I paid 2800 for mine with Wilwood brakes included. I agree it was a bunch of money. I have QA1 coilovers, tubular A arms, Flamingriver rack. Anyway I wish we could buy stuff like the bow tie guys.
 
toplscuda said:
Not trying to knock you so don't take it that way but that is what you are paying for. I't easy to stick a needle in someones rear but knowing when and with what is why you pay a doctor $200 to do it.
It took me quite a long time to justify the expense of going with the alterk but in the end I relented. I know what I want out of my build and even though I have done pretty well at saving money on some things, this was the one thing I knew would get me to my final goal.
Click to expand...

First off. To the original poster, sorry for the hyjack of your post. I love Your build and can't wait to see more.

Now while yes you pay $200 for some nurse to stick a needle in your rear, as this is too easy of a task for a dr, and they belive they are above that. (sorry that's a whole bother topic) to the discussion at hand, we are not talking about brain surgery. It's simple suspension geometry. The concepts have not changed. A front suspension is a front suspension. Yes I'll give credit where due. But honestly do you feel that a front suspension design that is sold over and over needs to make that much markup? I can see making a profit but making the mortgage off every single kit sold is a little extream. Yes you gotta pay for someone's knowledge, but charging more than double what other company's charge for a similar product boggles my mind. And to think people just say "well it's for a mopar and production is low, that's why it's so much." is odd. Production is low on the 2010 mustang but yet I can buy a lightweight replacement front end for $500 http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...R-Tubular-K-Member-For-Stock-Motor-Mounts-Red. Now agreed it does not include all the suspension parts, but I have priced double adjustable shocks, springs, brakes, ect. And even adding in all high quality parts (well above the alterkation included parts) I still can't come up with what they charge. Not even close. I'm sorry but the research has been done. The jigs are made. Build time is not that extensive. I just feel bad for all the guys that drop the money. The only benefit I see is it's easy. It just bolts in. That is all. Well so does a starter. Guess we should charge $1000 for them too as there is alot more involved in building one than a k member built in a jig.
 
I wasn't going to weigh in since it could fast devolve into a full on thread high jack. But feel that the Alter-K-tion gets a bum rap because of the pricing.

1. The Alter-K-tion is NOT a tubular K-Member it is a complete front suspension.

2. If you price out a complete stock high performance front suspension rebuild your costs come to nearly $1900.00

Tubular Upper Control Arms $299.00
Source: Reilly Motor Sports P/N: RMS2001
Adjustable Strut Rod $199.00
Source: Reilly Motor Sports P/N: RMS2020
Greaseable Lower Control Arm Pins $100.00
Source: Firm Feel
Urethane Lower Contrl Arm Bushing $35.00
Source: Frim Feel
Lower Moog Ball Joint 2@ 40.79 $81.58
Source: Rock Auto P/N: K783 and K781
Tie Rod Ends Inner: 11/16 Chrysler Imp. [email protected] $41.58
Source: Rock Auto P/N: ES352RL
Tie Rod Ends Outer: 11/16 Chrysler Imperial [email protected] $41.58
Source: Rock Auto P/N: ES352R
Tie Rod Sleave: 11/16 Chrysler [email protected] $29.84
Source: Rock Auto P/N: ES440S
Pitman Arm Moog: '67 Dodge Dart K $76.79
Source: Rock Auto P/N: K7074
Idler Arm Moog: '68 Dodge Dart $38.89
Source: Rock Auto P/N: K7042
Lower Control Arm Plate Kit $20.00
Source: AR Engineering P/N: AR012
Torsion Bar 1.00" $199.95
Source: Just Suspension: P/N: TB5249A35
Hellwig Front Sway Bar Kit $199.95
Source: Just Suspension: P/N: HWG5905
Flaming River 16:1 Steering Box $500.00
Source: TBD

Total: $1,863.16

The above list doesn't include brakes or shocks.

Keep in mind the RMS system includes upper and lower control arms and their associated bushings and ball joints. It includes your choice of springs and a free set of replacement springs. It also includes a 1" sway bar and motor mounts. The RMS also includes power rack and pinion steering. Keep in mind that a power rack and pinion kit for a B and E body from Unisteer is $1300.00 to $1400.00.

Finally Here are some examples of systems comparable to the RMS Alter-K-tion for the Chevy Crowd:

Heidts system for the Chevy II $4350.00

Total Cost Involved for 67-69 Camaro $4595.00

Art Morisson Front Clip for 70-81 Camaro $6180.00 Includes Brakes

Detroit Speed Price START $6900.00 Unpainted

Chris Alston's $3659.00

Speed Tech 67-69 Camaro $4899.00

These are the prices for COMPLETE suspension systems. In most cases spindle to spindle powder coated or painted with shocks, springs and associated hardware.

As mopar guys we often have to pay more for speed parts. In the Case of RMS I honestly don't feel his prices are out of line for the quality, performance, and service provided by Bill Reilly.

Finally, if you think I am simply trying to justify MY purchase of an Alter-k-tion, I wish I were, I simply cannot afford and Alter-k-tion. Wish I could, I think the Alter-k-tion is fairly priced.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
Keep in mind the RMS system includes upper and lower control arms and their associated bushings and ball joints. It includes your choice of springs and a free set of replacement springs. It also includes a 1" sway bar and motor mounts. The RMS also includes power rack and pinion steering. Keep in mind that a power rack and pinion kit for a B and E body from Unisteer is $1300.00 to $1400.00.
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it also comes front spindles, brakes, rotors bearing , seals.. basically everything you need except brake fluid and grease. like alreaded stated. its a complete system.
 
abodyjoe said:
thats a pretty damn big IF isn't it?
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No it's not. All it take is education. It's not likethere is some mystical power at work. It's just knowing what is correct. It's quite simple once you grasp the concept. The big "IF" is locating someone that will show you how its done correctly. I will learn it, oralist a matter of finding who can teach you correctly
 
Your total of 1900 is a little off. You cannot price a standard setup, and include a rack as well. That does not work. So your 1900 just dropped to 1400. Now I did nit do it the other way keepingthe rack, and removing standard steering, but let's assume it totals 500 as well. So if you source all the suspension parts, that come with the alterkation, and it totals 1400 that leaves 3600 for the k member. As that was bassicall all you did not have in your post. Take off 880 for wilwood brakes, and your at 2720. So your looking at 2720 for 200 in steel tubing and a weld job. When like I posted earlier you could get a comparable part for 500 for another brand. I don't see where your thinking that it's comparable to other stuff.
Also you numbers seem a little high. I have priced chris Alston stuff at $2000 but it needs brakes. So ad in another 880 give or take. Still no where near the alterkation. I called heidt's about installing Thier kit. Thy recommended the truck suspension to get the track width correct, as well as frame dimensions. It was ~$3000. That's complete just add wheels. So again your prices seem high no all your compairable parts. Unless when I called and spoke with them I got some great deal, but I doubt it as I went with the price off the website. Let's debate it. And understand the viewpoints from both sides.

Joe Dokes said:
I wasn't going to weigh in since it could fast devolve into a full on thread high jack. But feel that the Alter-K-tion gets a bum rap because of the pricing.

1. The Alter-K-tion is NOT a tubular K-Member it is a complete front suspension.

2. If you price out a complete stock high performance front suspension rebuild your costs come to nearly $1900.00

Tubular Upper Control Arms $299.00
Source: Reilly Motor Sports P/N: RMS2001
Adjustable Strut Rod $199.00
Source: Reilly Motor Sports P/N: RMS2020
Greaseable Lower Control Arm Pins $100.00
Source: Firm Feel
Urethane Lower Contrl Arm Bushing $35.00
Source: Frim Feel
Lower Moog Ball Joint 2@ 40.79 $81.58
Source: Rock Auto P/N: K783 and K781
Tie Rod Ends Inner: 11/16 Chrysler Imp. [email protected] $41.58
Source: Rock Auto P/N: ES352RL
Tie Rod Ends Outer: 11/16 Chrysler Imperial [email protected] $41.58
Source: Rock Auto P/N: ES352R
Tie Rod Sleave: 11/16 Chrysler [email protected] $29.84
Source: Rock Auto P/N: ES440S
Pitman Arm Moog: '67 Dodge Dart K $76.79
Source: Rock Auto P/N: K7074
Idler Arm Moog: '68 Dodge Dart $38.89
Source: Rock Auto P/N: K7042
Lower Control Arm Plate Kit $20.00
Source: AR Engineering P/N: AR012
Torsion Bar 1.00" $199.95
Source: Just Suspension: P/N: TB5249A35
Hellwig Front Sway Bar Kit $199.95
Source: Just Suspension: P/N: HWG5905
Flaming River 16:1 Steering Box $500.00
Source: TBD

Total: $1,863.16

The above list doesn't include brakes or shocks.

Keep in mind the RMS system includes upper and lower control arms and their associated bushings and ball joints. It includes your choice of springs and a free set of replacement springs. It also includes a 1" sway bar and motor mounts. The RMS also includes power rack and pinion steering. Keep in mind that a power rack and pinion kit for a B and E body from Unisteer is $1300.00 to $1400.00.

Finally Here are some examples of systems comparable to the RMS Alter-K-tion for the Chevy Crowd:

Heidts system for the Chevy II $4350.00

Total Cost Involved for 67-69 Camaro $4595.00

Art Morisson Front Clip for 70-81 Camaro $6180.00 Includes Brakes

Detroit Speed Price START $6900.00 Unpainted

Chris Alston's $3659.00

Speed Tech 67-69 Camaro $4899.00

These are the prices for COMPLETE suspension systems. In most cases spindle to spindle powder coated or painted with shocks, springs and associated hardware.

As mopar guys we often have to pay more for speed parts. In the Case of RMS I honestly don't feel his prices are out of line for the quality, performance, and service provided by Bill Reilly.

Finally, if you think I am simply trying to justify MY purchase of an Alter-k-tion, I wish I were, I simply cannot afford and Alter-k-tion. Wish I could, I think the Alter-k-tion is fairly priced.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
Click to expand...
 
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