/6 no start, has fuel. Walk me through trackdown process?

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Backtobasics

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1976 Dart Lite 225 slant 6.

Has fuel, appears no spark.

Can someone walk me back through ignition diagnostic process? It has been a long while since I had to chase no start situation, so memory is a little soft.

12v starts at the battery and then.....

Thanks in advance!~
 
First thing would be to check your ballast resister for continuity and clean any build up on your 6 pick ups in your distributor, Check for 12 volts to the coil and then if you have an extra ecu "I try and keep one around in the clove box along with a ballast resister" I have had two coils go bad on me last year on my truck, I use all used parts on it :happy10:
But NO spark tells me your ballast resister or ecu is out 8)
I am by no means a tec here just had to jump in and give ya what I do know :-D
 
Make sure your battery cables are in good shape and that they have good connections. Also the ground that goes from the battery to the front sheet metal MUST be well grounded.
Start there and report back. Do you have a meter?
Frank
 
1. Turns over with no issues.
2. Ran a week ago. I have not been able, with work, to drive it in the last little while.
3. I am going to try again, but the trick with the screwdriver in the plug wire trick, and got no spark to ground.
4. I am getting meter tonight. It shoudl be 12v down to starter, what should voltage be to disstributor, and ballast resistor? I will pull ballast resistor to see if it is blown on backside.
 
With the key in the run position you should have 8 or 9 volts at the + terminal on the coil. If you don't you have a bad ballast resistor. Chances are that is the problem. That's all I've ever had fail on me in 37 years.
 
Ok I am no professional but I have been trying (unsuccessfully) to track down the same problem. So I am going to walk through the system layout and what you may expect at the various points.

Battery positive to starter
positive to voltage regulator
voltage regulator then goes 2 way
one to ballast resistor
one to alternator
with the key in the on position 8-9 volts at the positive and negative side of ignition coil
on the positive side of coil should be wire from ballast resistor and if you have it capacitor
from the negative side it goes inside the distributor
then from the tower to the distributor cap

Now the information I have found to test against.
The ignition coil should have 5-7 ohms across positive and negative terminals
and from the tower to the positive or negative should be 5k to 7k

i have seen several potential tests for spark from the tower
you can either get the spark plug wire from the tower to ground if you see spark then coil is good (This didn't work for me still don't know the problem)

If you have spark there you can then test the plugs same process take the spark plug wire off one of the plugs and plug a spark plug in and ground the threads you should see a spark across the gap.

I have seen suggestion that the rotor even if it looks good may be bad and require replacement. Also check the distributor cap for carbon buildup and the spark points.

If everything is good then your problem much like mine is beyond my skill. Admittedly my skill is limited. If anyone can suggest where to look for my problem I would appreciate it. I have checked the battery its good. I replaced the coil and checked it seems to be good and the voltages are correct.
 
Ok I am no professional but I have been trying (unsuccessfully) to track down the same problem. So I am going to walk through the system layout and what you may expect at the various points.

Battery positive to starter
positive to voltage regulator
voltage regulator then goes 2 way
one to ballast resistor
one to alternator
with the key in the on position 8-9 volts at the positive and negative side of ignition coil
on the positive side of coil should be wire from ballast resistor and if you have it capacitor
from the negative side it goes inside the distributor
then from the tower to the distributor cap

Now the information I have found to test against.
The ignition coil should have 5-7 ohms across positive and negative terminals
and from the tower to the positive or negative should be 5k to 7k

i have seen several potential tests for spark from the tower
you can either get the spark plug wire from the tower to ground if you see spark then coil is good (This didn't work for me still don't know the problem)

If you have spark there you can then test the plugs same process take the spark plug wire off one of the plugs and plug a spark plug in and ground the threads you should see a spark across the gap.

I have seen suggestion that the rotor even if it looks good may be bad and require replacement. Also check the distributor cap for carbon buildup and the spark points.

If everything is good then your problem much like mine is beyond my skill. Admittedly my skill is limited. If anyone can suggest where to look for my problem I would appreciate it. I have checked the battery its good. I replaced the coil and checked it seems to be good and the voltages are correct.
 
try shiftin into nuetral and start. thats wut i gotta do sumtimes

Replace your ignition switch. Mine does it every now and then in my 73 and I have a new switch bit it's just one of those "I'm lazy and I will do it later" things.
 
Buy a switch and lock cylinder from RockAuto.com or somewhere [cheapish] like them and it'll come with keys. I need to do mine pretty quick here as well and that's where my parts will be coming from...
 
Buy a switch and lock cylinder from RockAuto.com or somewhere [cheapish] like them and it'll come with keys. I need to do mine pretty quick here as well and that's where my parts will be coming from...

would it be feasible to get a switch and cylinder but have the cylinder keyed to fit my current key? otherwise id have to have a key for ignition, doors, and trunk...too many keys for 1 car. 2 is enough
 
If your key is in the column then you don't need a new one. The switch is separate.I'm not sure about in dash ones.
 
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