60 Valiant MSD 12v source

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mario03srt

mario03srt

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All,

I’m reinstalling a MSD 6AL2 in my “Valiant”. It came removed and stock dizzy was in use. I have it all ready except the 12 v Ignition for the Msd box and Pertronix II Mopar Dizzy.

The diagram of the old ballast resistor as well as the stock wiring show a blue lead from the alt, and blue lead from the ign switch going thru the resistor and exiting with a blue lead and a brown lead (crank 12v switch ign) going to the stock coil and dizzy. Am I correct in using the 2 Blue leads (alt/ign sw) along with the brown to provide 12v switched to the box and + coil?

Thanks for the sanity check on this ol girl.

Marion

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Yes. Or to put it another way, connect the two connectors on the ends of the ballast resistor together and run the blue coil positive wire to the MSD box
 
mario03srt said:
Am I correct in using the 2 Blue leads (alt/ign sw) along with the brown to provide 12v switched to the box
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Yes. Piggy back onto either terminal; Or disconnect the ignition wire at the coil and connect to that wire's ring terminal. The current drawn by the box for the on switch signal is so small it won't notice the ballast resistor is even there.
mario03srt said:
and + coil?
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No!

The original wires to the coil must be removed. The MSD will supply a burst of electrical energy to the coil.
 
Odd that Holley-MSD is suggesting the MSD's ground be at the battery. Maybe the electronics are sensitive to noise???
Autotronic's instructions for the 6A, 6T and 6C were to ground to the block.
I can tell you that in my experience with the older 6, the MSD heavy red can be connected near the battery or closer to the alternator with no problems.

I bring it up because depending on what changes you've made, with the 1960 wiring arrangement it may be easier to connect the MSD heavy red at the alternator Batt terminal, and the heavy black to the block or head.

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Battery grounds are theoretically best, but for an MSD box that doesn't have to take precise analog voltage measurements, it won't make a difference if you ground to the block. I've seen a few horror stories where someone got creative with the grounds for one of those and used a badly grounded bit of interior trim though.
 
I ran the ground right over to the cylinder head. I have a rear mounted battery and am trying cheat a little. Also the battery cable from the trunk is ran right to the starter and a 12 gage wire is ran from that to the MSD main power red lead. Thats the way the PO had it ran.
 
"No!

The original wires to the coil must be removed. The MSD will supply a burst of electrical energy to the coil"

Right, I meant the red wire off of the distributor/Pertronix module. Not the coil. The coil is fired by the MSD 6 and is ran to the Blaster SS coil.

Thanks.
 
I had already ran a extra ground strap from the bell housing to the frame. The battery ground cable from the trunk terminates near there. The ground lead on the MSD 6 is surprisingly wimpy. It's attached right on the block and maybe 6 inches long. Should at least fire but at 5k it may be another story. ;)
 
Also, I don't need to do anything with the MSD tach output wire for now right? I am running a old Sunpro Super II right to the - on the coil.
 
mario03srt said:
Also, I don't need to do anything with the MSD tach output wire for now right? I am running a old Sunpro Super II right to the - on the coil.
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Run the tach off the MSD tach output wire. When MSD says "This is the ONLY wire you should run to the negative terminal of the coil," they mean it.
 
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