.600 lift springs and .590 lift cam

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tooslow

tooslow

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I am ordering hughes .605 lift mech fat tappet cam.
Q- how close to the .600 lift can i go. after i adjust the lash i will be around 57? something so i should be ok?? right

Also do i really need to break the cam in with one spring removed? If so can you rec a good spring compressor?
 
I would certainly think so, yes.
 
you will also lose about .020 due the angle of the lifters vs the pushrods....59 vs 48 degrees...

plus the lash...
 
70aarcuda said:
you will also lose about .020 due the angle of the lifters vs the pushrods....59 vs 48 degrees...

plus the lash...
Click to expand...
Could you explain the 59 vs 48 ???

even with Crane rollers 1.5's??
SOUNDS LIKE I CAN GO TO A 1.6 RATIO ROCKER NO PROBLEM???:blob: BIGGER IS BETTER-Someday i will change my name to "Toofast--kidding

'
 
Are to talking about valve spring retainer to valve guide clearance? Piston to valve clearance? The only way to know is to measure as all motors are different. Inner spring needs to be removed for break in with todays junk parts and oils. I learned that lesson the hard way. With cams this big I would measure everything possible. Degree the cam and measure all your clearances or you will be sorry.
 
tooslow said:
Could you explain the 59 vs 48 ???

even with Crane rollers 1.5's??
SOUNDS LIKE I CAN GO TO A 1.6 RATIO ROCKER NO PROBLEM???:blob: BIGGER IS BETTER-Someday i will change my name to "Toofast--kidding

'
Click to expand...


sorry...the pushrod angle only small blocks
 
tooslow said:
I am ordering hughes .605 lift mech fat tappet cam.
Q- how close to the .600 lift can i go. after i adjust the lash i will be around 57? something so i should be ok?? right

Also do i really need to break the cam in with one spring removed? If so can you rec a good spring compressor?
Click to expand...

huh?
 
What does that Hughes cam require for pressures? If you have the typical ".600 lift" springs liek with most aftermarket head assemblies, they are not enough spring for that cam. Lift means very little in determining a springs ability to control the valve with a specific cam. Pressures are what you want to look at.
And yes, if it's flat tappet, never break in the cam with the inner springs installed. This is true for any dual spring assembly. A single spring with the flat wound dampener is NOT a dual spring.
 
moper said:
What does that Hughes cam require for pressures? If you have the typical ".600 lift" springs liek with most aftermarket head assemblies, they are not enough spring for that cam. Lift means very little in determining a springs ability to control the valve with a specific cam. Pressures are what you want to look at.
And yes, if it's flat tappet, never break in the cam with the inner springs installed. This is true for any dual spring assembly. A single spring with the flat wound dampener is NOT a dual spring.
Click to expand...

Thanks , I will now go with the hughes rec. springs for the cam choice.
I am going to pressurise the each cylinder and remove the inner spring one at a time. I never did this before.
What tool do you reccomend to compress the springs to remove the locks?
 
I think i will go with a LUNNATI Cam. They have a 3 bolt 578 lift and 240 dur at .050 and 112 lobe seperation. Coil bind should be less of a problem.
Changing my intake from an M1 single to a Dual plane high rise. Puts my torque and HP in my more frequent RPM range. 2500 to 5500RPM I dont get over 6000 RPM to often but occasionally I hit 150mph
I drive it on Road Race tracks-Fun, Beats a kick in the pants!!
 
I want to go with a Hughes Cam but they only offer a 108 degree lobe seperation in the profile I want. 240Dur at .050 and 590 lift

Lunati has the same profile with 112 degree lobe seration. My car is a road racer and I do drive it around the back roads. Do i need the wider lobe seperation?

2900 lbs
496 CI
11-1 CR
3000 stall
dual plane high rise manifold
850 Demon
 
I did some research and answered my own question. The wider the lobe seperation the higher my power band. I should call hughes and tell what i am doing and they might even grind a custom stick

Thanks for ALL your help guy's
I am getting FASTER
 
A shorter rod to stroke ratio likes a wider LSA. Especially if the heads are on the small side (I'm assuming they are on yours). The longer stroke likes duration too.
 
moper said:
A shorter rod to stroke ratio likes a wider LSA. Especially if the heads are on the small side (I'm assuming they are on yours). The longer stroke likes duration too.
Click to expand...

Its stroked so I would want a LSA 496 CI?? and more duration than a non stroked engine--I read your reply correctly?
 
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