63 Dart overheating issue

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Mineallmine

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I just recently got my 63 Dart finished and on the road for the first time. Working through the usual bugs and minor issues but this one is bugging me.

When I am driving my Dart it overheats. I took it to a car show and as I was driving there it overheated on me. I was going around 50MPH at the time so there should have been plenty of air flow. I have also had it overheat when driving around town stop and go.

Here is what I have done so far to try to locate the issue:

Changed thermostat twice (one in the car was quality new one) with no change. Even took the thermostat out and at the advice of a member on here I cut out the middle and ran it like that to simulate the thermostat open all the time. No change.

Car has a new heater core. Radiator was re-cored by a reputable shop reusing only the original top and bottom tanks. New water pump (gates IIRC). Car had core plugs removed when I got it so I blew out that area as well as I could and installed new core plugs. When engine was out and disassembled for new gaskets and seals and new water pump I blew it out again at that time with compressed air. When engine was run for the first time I flushed the engine for half and hour to get any rust/dirt residue out by removing the heater hoses from the heater core and connecting one to a hose and the other ran out the door for run off. Ran the water as high as I could without over pressuring the cap while the car ran until the water ran clear (about half an hour. Ran longer to get it as clean as I could). Fresh coolant was then added and topped off the following day and confirmed a few days after each day to make sure all air was purged. This was all done before the car was even driven to try to make sure I was doing my due diligence to avoid any issues. This was also before I found my overheating issue.

I have a new rad cap for the car as well, but not installed yet. I doubt that will change anything as the temperature goes up to almost hot before the pressure pushes past the cap.

With the car cool and the center cut out of the thermostat I pulled the rad cap and ran the car. It does look like the coolant is pumping, just cant tell how well it is pumping.

Exhaust flapper moves easily and free and spring works as it should. Timing currently is 10 degrees before top dead center. I have also adjusted the valves according to the service manual. I may readjust again just to be sure.

Car starts and runs great until this happens. I am also working on the heat soak issue but that's totally different.

I have ordered the Flowkooler water pump, but not as a fix for this issue, just for better flow. I would like to resolve this issue before it arrives. Any ideas where I should be looking next?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am thinking of draining the entire system and hooking up to the upper rad hose with a hose and disconnect the lower to confirm I am getting good circulation and flow through the engine to ensure there are no blockages. I am running out of ideas. Other than that I can only think of a faulty pump or radiator.

Thanks in advance
 
How about some pictures of your radiator, fan and engine bay.

Pictures are worth 1000 words, we can probably spot something that has been overlooked.

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Here is one of the engine bay. It went back totally stock. As it was when I got it. I will add more after

Engine bay almost done.jpg
 
More pictures. These were right before I hooked up transmission cooler lines and installed rad hoses

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I am not an expert: I have my '64 225 set to 2.5 BTDC at a 550rpm at warmed up idle. Also have a 6 Blade fan, stock Modine radiator. I have had the gauge show hot but a laser thermometer showed proper temps. The problem was the electrical sender/wire and gauge.
 
Typically a cooling system clean out puts a "T" in one of the heater lines.

The hose pushes water into the block than back out through the radiator and out thefiller neck.



Sounds like you have done most everything cooling system related.

Overheating at idle is typically an air flow issue, overheating at speed is typically a water flow problem.

Have you checked timming at 2000 rpm?

Maybe your mechanical advance is stuck.

Also check your vacume advance, the vacuume at the can, it should be 0 at idle and much higher (10 to 20) at 2000 rpm in park/neutral.

If it is hooked up to a manifold vac port it will add advance at idle and might subtract timming at speed.

Just reaching for straws
 
Let me correct that. I am actually at 7.5 btdc. I forgot I adjusted it. I tried 2.5 and 5 but it didn't like it. Starts and runs much better at 7.5. maybe I'll back it off again to see if it changes anything
 
I think my mechanical is fine. I know when I rev it when I was setting it with vacuum disconnected it changed with rpms. I'll check the vacuum. The hose is connected to the correct port on the side of the carb.
 
Is the heat riser at the exhaust manifold bottom stuck shut?

Should move freely.

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6 blade fan will probably take care of it after all you have done.

Those 4 blade fans don't really move much air. OK for 70° day, 85° - 90° day not so much.

Had the stock 4 blade fan on this stock '69 318, ran a little warm on the hot days. Switched over to a 6 blade fan and it cooled it back down to the proper operating temperature.

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When it starts to run hot when idling, try running the garden hose through the radiator to see if it cools down... If it does cool down then the issue is you are not getting enough air flow through the radiator.

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I know alot of older cars didn't run fan shrouds, but I think if you could find/make one it would help.
 
I know alot of older cars didn't run fan shrouds, but I think if you could find/make one it would help.

Slant 6 AC cars had shrouds with 6 blade fans.

Sounded like an airplane prop under the hood with the 6 blade solid mount fan and shroud on the '74 Dart slant 6 AC, I brought back up from Florida. Clutch fan will keep it quiet.

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That water pump pulley looks pretty big. Is it larger than the crank pulley?
 
Questions, when you say overheat, do you mean hot temp 220-230 range or is it boiling over?
 
To answer a few of the questions:

Stock pulleys.
Adjusted timing to 2.5 BTDC and adjusted carb to run well with timing setting - no change.
Temp hits about 250-260 and is boiling over.
Water pump pulley is original to car. Don't think it's bigger but didn't measure.

I appreciate the advice on 6 blade fan, fan shroud and other ideas to improve cooling, but I am trying to correct the overheating issue first. Stock everything shouldn't overheat, especially with thermostat eliminated. These cars ran fine like this, so mine should too. Improving the cooling may come later when I decide to start upgrading.

I checked the rad with my thermal gun and found cold spots in the radiator. My best guess is on first start it must have sucked up some debris that never came out of the engine during gasket and seal replacement, or there was an issue during the recore and got some faulty tubes that are blocked. Either way, I am hoping I found the root cause.

Plan is now to pull the rad again and bring it back to the shop that did it to check it again to see if it's plugged or if the tubes are faulty and get it corrected. They are a reputable company so if it was their fault, I'm sure they'll stand behind it and if it was my fault I'm sure they will be reasonable on price to flush it out. Otherwise I will just upgrade to the champion aluminum radiator.
 
Keep us posted


You might want to add a filter to the system on the upper hose.

This was mentioned in another overheating post
 
Haven't had any dirt in the coolant or discoloration since the initial startup and flush. I am guessing that is when it got blocked. Everything that comes out now is nice and green. I am thinking once this problem is finally resolved I should be good.

Oh, and one thing I forgot to mention. I checked the vacuum at the carb. Basically none at idle but gets stronger as rpms increase. Don't have a vacuum guage so i can't tell you exact measurements. Also again I checked mechanical advance with the vacuum disconnected and as you increase the RPMs the timing changes as well so I'm confident that is all correct as well.
 
Don't have a vacuum guage so i can't tell you exact measurements. Also again I checked mechanical advance with the vacuum disconnected and as you increase the RPMs the timing changes as well so I'm confident that is all correct as well
You need to get a vacume gauge.

And it is important to know what these old cars are doing.

I think you are on the right track that your rad is clogged.

But too little advance will cause heat issues too.
 
I have been reading your rebuild thread, nice job by the way, what did you do to the engine besides gaskets and paint?
 
I have been reading your rebuild thread, nice job by the way, what did you do to the engine besides gaskets and paint?
All new seals and gaskets, lapped the valves, new timing gear and chain, new fuel pump, new water pump, new core plugs, new points, condenser, rotor and cap and wires. Then I set the valves cold and reset them after the car had warmed up and been run a while. This was a low mileage car with only 68,000 original miles and had good compression before so I didn't see the need to go any further. Car even has the original exhaust with the exception of the muffler that had a small hole in it.
 
Yes, I have read that later in the tread, I guess I spoke too soon. Reading about the freeze plugs being "MIA" gets me to thinking. Crack block, cracked head, bad head gasket can all cause overheating problems. I wish you the best, you really did a nice job on this auto sir......
 
Collapsed lower rad hose.............No spring inside?
No spring in lower hose, but no, I did check that as well. Got it warm and revved it up and checked multiple time and the lower hose was never even slightly collapsed. Thanks
 
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