65 Barracuda Pro Touring project

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Oh My Goodness !!! Welcome aboard Max, Maximized 65 Barracuda :cheers:
Looks like you have been there dun that a few times :happy2:
I see some great
modes going on here :burnout: Subscribed :happy1:

Beautiful :cheers::shaking2::shaking2::cheers:
 
Dam that car looks awesome, and the stance is incredible with those rear tires. You've obviously moved your springs into the frame, but are the wheel wells stock size or were they widened?
 
The headers are TTI part # TTI636A-C4. They are made specifically for 63-66 A bodies. Recommended for 320-575 horsepower. My motor dyno numbers are 425HP and 475 torque. The wheels were recommended by Bill Reilly himself. They are American Racing '99-'04 Ford Mustang wheels. The fronts are 17 x 8's with 5.72" back spacing and 1.18" offset. I used the front Wilwood disc setup from RMS as well. The gods may have been smiling on me on the rubbing issue. The rear wheels are 17 x 10.5's with 6.8" backspacing and 1.10" offset. I like this because the axle can stay longer and more wheel goes under the car. This is how new cars do it.
 
Dan Chase340,

The wheel wells were widened by almost 2". There are no leaf springs anymore, I installed the RMS Street Lynx triangulated 4-link. It is expensive stuff but is built EXTREMELY well. I can honestly say the front and rear setups fit PERFECTLY in place! I did cut and box the frame rail with leaf spring relocation kit's to accept the lower 4-link bars.
 
Looks great, can't wait to get back to work on my own project. Keep the pic's coming.
 
These are pics of my oil pan from Kevko. It fit's in the stock location on K-frame cars and is baffled, holds an extra quart and has a crank scraper. Good price, too. The power rack and pinion housing could not clear the pan so I notched it. Fence pipe tubing did the trick.
 

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Here are some pics of the front wheels/tires. When turned they are pretty close to rubbing on the frame rail. Have to wait until it's on the road to see if it's going to need stops. The front lip clears by 1/2" or so.
 

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My engine is an LA block, not a Magnum but the 5.7L oil pan gasket fits perfectly and is one piece, has steel bolt hole washers molded in to prevent over tightening/crushing and seals WAY better than old style gaskets.
 

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These are pics of the car with no motor in it.
 

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Here is a pic of the car with the motor in it.
 

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You just planning on goobering some RTV in the saddle gasket retainer notches of that pan or are you going to weld in a magnum corner? (I goobered RTV but always curious what others do when using the magnum gasket and an LA pan).
 
jarvitron,

I'm using a Magnum reverse flow (factory) water pump, so the Magnum gasket fits perfectly. Kevko does use an LA oil pan to start with.
 
jarvitron said:
You just planning on goobering some RTV in the saddle gasket retainer notches of that pan or are you going to weld in a magnum corner? (I goobered RTV but always curious what others do when using the magnum gasket and an LA pan).
Click to expand...


I was curious bout this, too. The LA pan is the propblem, not the timing chain cover. The LA pan has notches at the front that the Magnum gasket does not fill. You will probably have a massive leak there when you fire it up. I've seen people weld up the corners using peices from a magnum pan, cut the corners off the LA gasket and RTV them in before mounting the pan or just cut the saddle off the magnum gasket and use the LA gasket.

You can see the notch in your pan in the first picture of the oil pan, just below the welder ground clamp.

Love the build. I was headed this direction (although much less radical) on my 63 Valiant before I was forced to give up on it. Very cool.
 
Wow, thanks to both of you. I didn't catch this. I scraped off the old gasket and went to the magnum after notching the pan. Number 729 on the to do list! Jarvitron, what results have you gotten with RTV?
 
I will finish the header install in a day or two. The main issue is the drivers side. My options are 1) move the motor, 2) clearance the inner fender and notch the frame rail, 3) dent the headers to clear the fender and frame (which I refuse to do!) or 4) all the above. Take a look....
 

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Goes to show no 2 cars are alike, either that or the header tooling was off when they did yours.
 
I would just notch the inner fender to make room.

Nice build.
 
65Vsignet said:
I run the same headers but they clear the inner fender no problem
Click to expand...

I also have a friend that's putting these in a '66 Cuda. He says the instructions say to move the motor to the passenger side by 3/4". (Glad i asked as i bought mine from a guy in Hawaii on ebay...no instructions). I assume thats what you've done. The factory already has it over by 5/8 and I don't want to go any further. RMS sent me 1/4" offset motor mount bushings, the result being what I have pictured. I'm removing the driver side shock mount, moving the inner fender metal and notching the frame rail for room.

It's a *****, but I love this stuff! I appreciate everyone's input.
 
I could be wrong, but it makes me wonder if the headers you have are for an later (67-76) A-Body. That doesn't seem right to me.
 
Here's a link to a picture from a Mopar Muscle article. Plenty of clearance on the '65 Barracuda. Headers look the same, so you probably have the right ones.

I notice that you have an aftermarket front suspension, too. The magazine article was with a factory K. I wonder if your motor is farther to the left than factory. Pretty sure the offset was more than an 1", but I don't remember for sure.
 
Thats an awesome car mate! Cant wait to see some video of it when done :)
What about modifying the pipes instead of the car? The trouble pipe looks like it could just get that extra kink taken out of it to flatten it back against the motor more?
 
V8val,

Wow! Great pic of your car! I'm after what you've got, a fast vintage Mopar that can handle a corner.
I've already notched and boxed the frame last night, pics coming soon. I don't want to risk header flange leaks by bending the tubes. The EFI is thrown off easily with that sort of thing. Shock tower work starts tomorrow.
 
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