65 cuda questions

[1965cudav8]

Some of you may have seen my intro page but for background I just picked up my first mopar project, a 65 cuda with yet unknown motor in it (need to get casting numbers). It just sat for 9 years without starting, moving etc. I got it started last week and am now moving towards other projects. I am currently fixing it up in Vermont so I can drive it home to Maine.

1. Can somebody give me a link or guide on how to bleed the drum brakes on my car? Last time I pumped the brake pedal brake fluid came flying out from somewhere on the drivers side front assembly. I am going to diagnose and fix that issue today but am not sure how to bleed the system after.

2. Any good descriptions on how to flush the radiator? Ive heard cascade works, as does the prestone flush product. But where is the drain at the bottom of the radiator? Do I just drain it, put the product, refill it, run it, and then drain it again? And then fill it up? Or is it more involved.

3. Finally, anybody dropped a gas tank and cleaned it? I went through a few fuel filters during the restart and a few other members here suggested I do this step before driving it 3.5 hours home. Im curious what the process for this is.

Thanks for all the help guys, this site is invaluable and I cannot wait to get this classic back on the road.

 

[The_night_rider]

I dropped my tank after I got mine, real straight forward. Just put a jack underneath it and undo the strap. Lower it and check the rubber grommet on the rank where it meets the filler neck, you might need a new one, you can get them pretty cheap. You also might be better off with a new tank also. Those are cheap.

 

[1965cudav8]

I dropped my tank after I got mine, real straight forward. Just put a jack underneath it and undo the strap. Lower it and check the rubber grommet on the rank where it meets the filler neck, you might need a new one, you can get them pretty cheap. You also might be better off with a new tank also. Those are cheap.

yeah that was pretty easy, thanks bub!

 

[Optik]

since you are planning on driving this car 3.5 hours home I would put all new brakes AND hard and soft lines on it all around. Since these things have the old "crash and kill" single-bowl master cylinder you don't want to take any chances -- if a leak occurs ANYWHERE in the system you will have no brakes at all. its easy enough to change everything out, it can be done in a day if you are at all handy with tools which I would assume you are. Cheap insurance for yourself and others on the road especially since you already had a brake blowout and its not even really moving yet. just my $.02.

as far as bleeding the system you crack open all the bleeders on the wheel cylinders a little bit and let it gravity bleed for a little while. then once there is some fluid in the lines, you close up all the bleeders, then get a buddy to sit in the car and pump the pedal up and hold it (don't bother with those "one-man bleeder kits" they never work right). crack the passenger side rear bleeder and let the air out. the pedal will go to the floor when you open up the bleeder to relieve the air. close the bleeder back up and have your buddy pump the pedal again. crack bleeder and let air out. repeat until no more air comes out of that bleeder, only fluid in a solid stream. Then move to driver side rear and do it all over again. Then pass side front, then driver side front. Don't let the master cylinder run out of fluid. Basically you are using the master to pump fluid through the system to push ALL the air out. And you always go from the farthest point in the sytem (pass side rear) and work your way to the nearest (driver side front). Also VERY important to bench bleed a master cylinder before bleeding the system. Detailed instruction on how to do this are here: http://www.superchevy.com/technical/chassis/brakes/0509sc_bench/index.html

-Tim

 

[1965cudav8]

Tim, thank you so much for your help bub. I did actually go through and inspect each brake assembly and replaced some components. I also measured the shoes and drums to make sure they were still functional. Then I adjusted them and put back together. Here is a pic of the passenger side front after i finished.

So yeah, today I will go through and replace most of the lines. Is there a particular brake fluid anyone suggests for these old systems? 3, 4, 5?

 

[livininharrow]

hello i totally agree with Optic re; the crash and kill single juice jar master cylinder. for now i would definetely buy a new one while you are doing the brakes anyway and as soon as possible replace it with a dual master. i used a 72 dart mastercylinder. of course redid the brake lines and installed an adjustable valve at the rear to adjust the amount of pressure to the rear brakes. in the meantime install a new master to get you going. or should i say Stopping. Paul

 

[1965cudav8]

ok well i ordered a new single master today (and i posted a similar thread in brakes forum but figured id repeat this here). however im thinking of just ordering a remanned dual master and just doing it right the first time. im pretty sure i can use the distribution block thats on it now and just get the particular fittings it needs to adapt:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/archive/index.php/t-98680.html

anybody used this method?

Thanks