65 Dart V8 Swap

[JW MOPAR]

Hey guys having issues with starter install while performing my V8 swap. I installed a later model 318 into my 65 Dart and while doing so I added power steering. I went to install a minnie starter and it is now hitting the pitman arm, it also is hitting the engine block. There is no way I can go back to the original larger starter. Is there a pittman arm that drops a little lower to provide me the clearance? I also installed an 833 4 speed trans. Your help would greatly be appreciated.

 

[Professor Fate]

Some of the later LAs had a casting lug on the block that can interfere with a mini starter. Grind it off, and the starter will fit squarely.
As far as the starter hitting the pitman arm, I have never had that issue. This comes to mind, though: what motor mount biscuits did you use? The ones in most parts listings are 2266 series (part number may vary slightly by manufacturer, but that is the model number), which are completely wrong! Using them will set your engine too low, causing all kinds of interference issues, possibly including what you are experiencing. What you need are 2338 mounts, which will raise your engine and gain you the clearance you need. These correct ones are almost twice the thickness of the imposters.
Reference this thread, as I don't feel like typing it all out again:
Doug’s Headers on 64 A body 4 speed
If all else fails, you could try this starter (smaller than the mini, even!):
Slant Six Roadster Build
mini starters for a 1966 273 header install
Both threads reference slant 6s, but don't let that fool you. They fit V8s just fine, too.

 

[Syleng1]

The other option as a temp fix is buy a few 3/4” flat washers. They are like 1/8” thick or more dependent on washer.
Cut a spot out approx the width of the studs on the motor mounts. Loosen the lower nuts (mounts to the k frame) and jack up the motor. Slide the washer under the mount and reverse the process.
You may only need to do the drivers side. You can do top and bottom if needed.

This will get you quiet a bit of room cheaply.
Good luck.
Syleng1

 

[JW MOPAR]

Thanks so much for the replys. There is no way Ì could ad any height to the motor mounts. The tollerance I have now is probably 1/4" from the firewall. I will certainly check to see if there is some grinding I can do on the block and look into the smaller starter. Thank you!!!

 

[vallianted]

Thanks so much for the replys. There is no way Ì could ad any height to the motor mounts. The tollerance I have now is probably 1/4" from the firewall. I will certainly check to see if there is some grinding I can do on the block and look into the smaller starter. Thank you!!!

just finishing up the swap on our 65 valliant.same set up as you have minus the power steering.might be a dumb question but do you have the right center link in it?
Ted

 

[Professor Fate]

There is no way Ì could ad any height to the motor mounts. The tollerance I have now is probably 1/4" from the firewall.

If it's mounted correctly you should have waaay more than 1/4" clearance at the firewall.
Just a thought- you DO have the mount brackets bolted to the rear of the engine mount ears, correct?

The factory bolted a million of these things together, you should not be having these issues if you're using the correct factory parts, assembled correctly...

 

[JW MOPAR]

just finishing up the swap on our 65 valliant.same set up as you have minus the power steering.might be a dumb question but do you have the right center link in it?
Ted

Yes, I have the drop center link. Thanks!

 

[Syleng1]

Proper install for the mounts for a factory set up. This is from my 66 Barracuda 273-4

 

[BillGrissom]

Yes, I have the drop center link. Thanks!

Both the slant-six and V-8 steering centerlinks drop, and look nominally the same, but the V-8 drops down ~1/2" more.

 

[JW MOPAR]

Thanks everyone for tĥe replys and suggestions. I made up some 3/16" metal spacers to go between the motor mounts and frame, problem solved.