Litz
Well-Known Member
I'm having a hard time figuring what would be a good upgrade from the old single pot MC. Looks like the headers will be very close to the MC. Any suggestions/advice would sure be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
65 Valiant small block with Heddman fenderwell headers. Need suggestions on master cylinder upgrade
- Thread starter Litz
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Pictures would help
Is this a street car? Drums all around?
Litz
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Yes, it's a street car with drums all around
I ran this one with fender well headers. The Hooker 5208 semi fender well headers.
Mopar Aluminum Master Cylinder Kit
Mopar Aluminum Master Cylinder Kit
Litz
Well-Known Member
Posted a photo
Litz
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Yeah street/strip drum brakes all around
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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If that was mine;
I would convert to a dual master, on an old Bendex dual-diaphragm booster, with the vertical offset bracketry. This will raise the M/C and push the lines quite a bit forward, away from the headers; But I would still reroute my lines away from the headers, Making lines is not hard .
In an A-body, you may not need the booster, so check around on FABO, mabe somedody has just the offset business.
Here's the kind of thing, I'm talking about
I would convert to a dual master, on an old Bendex dual-diaphragm booster, with the vertical offset bracketry. This will raise the M/C and push the lines quite a bit forward, away from the headers; But I would still reroute my lines away from the headers, Making lines is not hard .
In an A-body, you may not need the booster, so check around on FABO, mabe somedody has just the offset business.
Here's the kind of thing, I'm talking about
You should at least upgrade to a tandem system. 67 Valiant drum master.
What I would do in your case is three fold. First, as mentioned, upgrade to a dual reservoir master cylinder. Secondly, I would get the master cylinder relocation block for the Hemi. This moves the master cylinder over towards the driver's side fender for more clearance. Third, I would employ a shield to protect the master cylinder from heat.
jeff alder
Well-Known Member
How do you come up with these ideas? I'm still mesmerized by your new AVATAR...LOL
A Single-Pot still shuts mine down after 60 years... If it works...
I certainly don't disagree. However, IF there's a failure of any kind.....a rusted line lets loose, a wheel cylinder blows out, a bursted brake hose and all you will have is MAYBE one pump on the brake pedal to slow it down "a little" and if you have no parking brake, then you got "NUTHIN" after that one last pump. Yup, they work great for sixty plus years, but there's always that ONE time.
Oh, So a Dual-Pot will get you Two Pumps then? I get it.
No, much more. You don't understand how it works. A dual reservoir master cylinder splits the front and rear braking systems into two separate systems. I can cut a front brake hose IN HALF and although you will lose the front brakes completely, it does not affect the rear AT ALL. You still have full rear brakes and can stop the car. Same for the rear if they become disabled. You will still have brakes, although the pedal would be low, you could still stop.
Nope. Red X. Lol
When you open a Bleeder they go to-the-floor I don't care how many ports you got.
If they do, you've got something wrong. It's not up for debate, sparky. That's how it works. That's why dual reservoir master cylinders were mandated in 1967. You're right though. On a single reservoir master cylinder, no matter where you open the system, they go to the floor.
Yea, same here. I have thought about dual master cylinder with my Hedman 1-7/8 fenderwells ('65 Barracuda). It does look like an issue but to date I have not investigated. Bugs me but my car still stops.
Mine:
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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My 69 Barracuda lost brakes once in about 1977. Pedal dropped as I was slowing for a stop sign. I did not Know about the Dual-brakes design and panicked. I threw it in reverse and gassed it. Then I took a deep breath and thought about it. Then I remembered about the parking brake. I nursed it home vwewy vwewy cawfuwey.
My pedal never hit the floor cuz I did not know to step harder. I learned that on another occasion!
I had built that trans, and it was fine, it was used to me doing stupid stuff; and yes, it did have a 2800 TC in it. I put 2800s in almost every one of my automatic Mopars, save for the three wagons I've had. I luv my Trac-Action Dirt-Jerkers.. I bought several of them on the employee pricing program, back in the 70s when I was working for a company that built them. Still got one.
My pedal never hit the floor cuz I did not know to step harder. I learned that on another occasion!
I had built that trans, and it was fine, it was used to me doing stupid stuff; and yes, it did have a 2800 TC in it. I put 2800s in almost every one of my automatic Mopars, save for the three wagons I've had. I luv my Trac-Action Dirt-Jerkers.. I bought several of them on the employee pricing program, back in the 70s when I was working for a company that built them. Still got one.
Convert to a duel pot. You can stick with the manual drums, just have to do a little plumbing. Finelines sells a T-block to do the conversion. After that add a heat shield. You can fab one or go to Accurate Ltd.
604B1duster
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I had this pic saved. Pretty sure they’re Hedman. Looks like a Mopar master, 4-2 bolt adapter, maybe add a shield on the bottom
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slayer
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I have Headman Hustlers on my 66 Valiant with an aluminum Mopar performance master cylinder. I had a stock iron master cylinder from my 72 barracuda before the aluminum one and the #7 pipe almost touched the master. The aluminum has an inch of clearance. To avoid boiling the brake fluid, i added a heat shield from Mancini Racing.
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