66 convertible top switch cover made!

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66Dvert

66Dvert

Working on my custom car parts again!
Joined
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Webster , florida
I've been looking for a Good top switch cover for my wife's 66 dart resto and haven't found any that I thought were reasonably priced. sooooo I fixed my broken one and cast a mold of it to make one that I could smooth out and make pretty, plus add the broken pins in the rear too!
here's the part that I have to smooth out and re mold after I get it smoothed out in the broken area (now that I'm not afraid of breaking the glue joint since it is all in one piece now:cheers:)

you can see the glue joint in the original piece
View attachment WP_20130606_001.jpg
here's the added pins to locate the part in the bezel
View attachment WP_20130606_002.jpg
here it is in the first mold.
View attachment WP_20130606_004.jpg

now that I have a good starter piece I'll work on that piece to smooth it out some more and clean up the front surface so the impression of the original glue joint is gone. then I'll see if my black tint has come in and try it out to make the piece in black plastic. 1 step closer to getting my dash done and cleaned up.

man I gotta quit using the phone to take pic's these SUCK sorry bout that.
 
Nice work, Dvert, and a procedure that lots of us will need to learn. The aftermarket won't repop every little piece for every model. With the 'net, though, we can stay in contact and find others who will make 8-10 pieces for just enough $ to break even and the fun of doing it! I love it!!

BC

PS, that third pic IS pretty poor!
 
Brilliant. Please tell us more how you molded it. What type of plastic or epoxy did you use and did you have to melt or inject it?
 
BillGrissom said:
Brilliant. Please tell us more how you molded it. What type of plastic or epoxy did you use and did you have to melt or inject it?
Click to expand...

I used the trial version kit of smooth on plastic's , now that I know how it reacts I'll be getting more of the stuff and some black tint to redo my dash bezels in black plastic so the spray chromer will have 1 less step to do when he sprys my bezels again for me. I want an A/C bezel with no radio and 2 power outlets (cigarette lighter) openings, plus I'm thinking of the intelletronix digital dash and don't want to just make a metal plate and screw it to the dash. I'm going to make a clay master the digital dash will sit in and flow into the heater/radio bezel like it was made for it (hopefully) then make a mold of that and cast it in black plastic too!
if I could only afford that 9-10 k for the spray chrome machine I'd be in heaven! can ya say custome chromed dash board! yeah!:cheers:

it'll be a little expensive for me to do since it's just a "one off " unless someone needs one like that or I just make a stock looking part and it looks/works good. then I might sell a couple. but I NEED the parts so I'm making them for me first and then others if they want em.
for example that first mold of this piece cost me 35 bucks and I will have to do another. (another 35) that's more than what some others were asking for the good used piece (50 bucks) BUT after the second mold is made to perfect the shape and hide the repair joint it will be just the cost of the plastic after that. so for both my convertibles it'l be cheaper AND I'll have a mold to be able to make another if I break either of mine.

nobody I know makes dash bezels for the 66 dart and it's hard getting hold of good radio bezels of any type that haven't been hacked. so I'll be making mine up as a precaution of damaging mine or weathering it.
later on I'll get a 65 64 63 radio /heater bezel and those STUPID defroster vents (that are overpriced like you would not believe 49 bucks for 2 pieces of plastic yeah right!) I'd pay 15 apiece if I had to but 25 apiece just ain't gonna happen. and see if people need them recast. I'm looking for the metal inserts that go into the radio bezel for the knob holes. I think I have found something that'll work so it doesn't break out so that's a plus. and the nuts that go onto the defroster vents I'm still looking for. I want to cast then vents with the 2 1/2-2 adapter already on it so you can use (cheaper in cost)aftermarket or junkyard hoses if you want to.

there is so many possibilities of making those/any type of parts it isn't funny.
Nobody makes many of our early A parts. if I can coral enough good parts to cast I might be able to sell em (or at least make em for me) all the plastic cast parts for the early A's that we need made. the hard part is getting a good part and paying a decent price for it first!

so far I have in the works

the top switch cover you are looking at right now. (almost done and ready to go.

convertible rear top side panels (that thin plastic piece the at covers the edges of the panel and the top boot covers and snaps to) black or white ABS or styrene. molds are almost ready for an epoxy coating and solid mounting to take to the vacuformer guy and have a test run made of (actually all 4 pieces. 2 outer skins and 2 inner covers sort of z shaped) I forgot to take a pic of the inner piece.
View attachment side panel top piece.jpg

View attachment DSCF3734.JPG
View attachment DSCF3737.JPG
the inner piece that makes the top of the rear side panel on convertibles look good and hides the lift cylinders from the top looking down . done in black color.


and of course the radio bezels in different configurations.
I'm going for the A/C radio delete(gt style), radio and heater delete (gt style), A/C radio (gt style). heater/radio (gt style). you get the drift all the ones you find hacked up. cast in black so the spray chromer has less work to do for me (cheaper I like that)



kick panels with 4in round speaker kickouts to clear the drivers side (so far) fresh air vent), passengers side mold will be done in july hopefully)
then it's test fitting time on mine! this is the first pic before having to move it down 1 1/2 inch and out to clear the fresh air vent door.


View attachment DSCF3743.JPG
Waiting on vacuformer guy to get the test pieces done and see if they fit!

mounting cup for my1966 dart all 4 stop/turn/tail LED tail light conversion kit(it works but you have to hot glue it) I want to make the total kit plug and play with out hot glue if I can. fronts too! (vacuformer molds again waiting on the vacuformer guy)

replacement bezels for my rear tail lights (this is gonna be EXPENSIVE!!!!) or maybe not if I don't try to cast or billet it . I have an idea about that.

I'm going to cast a new top plate for the wife's 66 dart console out of plastic and then spray chroming it to see what kind of durability I can get out of that. plus I can customize it with a cup holder and power plugs . (she wants 2 and lighted at that like the caliber but I can't see a way of getting 2 in there to look good!)

GAH!!! too many irons in the fire right now that's for sure!
at this rate I'll never get my car done! I'll always be putting on and taking off parts! !@#$%#$%:banghead:
 
64ragtop said:
Nice work, Dvert, and a procedure that lots of us will need to learn. The aftermarket won't repop every little piece for every model. With the 'net, though, we can stay in contact and find others who will make 8-10 pieces for just enough $ to break even and the fun of doing it! I love it!!

BC

PS, that third pic IS pretty poor!
Click to expand...


about those pictures ummm
I know I took it with my phone and had my thumb over the flash.. I remembered to bring out the camera to the garage so any new ones will be with something you can actually see!

Once I make a better mold of the just cast part(the one you can almost see in the picture) after it's been fixed to smooth out the top to hide the glue line from the original, I'll be making a few just to make sure I have spares and can really do it reliably. the mold was made according to the way they showed how to do it but I need to rotate it 90 and recast it my way so the vent's i made in the mold don't show up in the part or at least on the back side where it won't matter. (and I'll use the camera without my thumb on the flash, promise ya that much anyway)

I figure the first couple of parts I make are gonna cost me as much(50-70 in supplies no time included) or more than the ebay people(50) wanted for the original old part in decent condition. but after that it'll be cheaper and I'll always have a mold to cast:cheers: more! that's the part I like, backups!
 
Hell_Fish said:
I really like the idea of molded kick panels. Have you even looked in exciter speakers? Something like this. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=300-375
They use the the item they are attached to to amplify the sound. You would not need a hole for a speaker. I plan to use some for my doors and kick panels
Click to expand...

I think they need an amp to work correctly. but not to sure at the moment. it they do need an amp they won't work for my application but do look nice.
if not and just hooked straight to a radio then they'd be perfect to layup for the dart.
 
Oh man - you are a champ indeed.

How the hell do you get time to do all that stuff???
And how do you come up with those ideas.
you da man!!!!
 
AussiePlymouths said:
Oh man - you are a champ indeed.

How the hell do you get time to do all that stuff???
And how do you come up with those ideas.
you da man!!!!
Click to expand...


Thanks!
I don't sleep much :D so that gives me a little more time than average.
if the truth be told, I have WAYYYYYY more time than money and just paying the asking price for some of these 40+ year old pieces.... well let's just say "they ain't an 1 of 1 E-body piece buddy" so I can't see paying your price. and they don't want to haggle on price either. they say find it cheaper if you can or see if you can find it. cause it ain't made.

plus I'm cheap too!:glasses7: I admit it. I'll work harder to save a few bucks than pay that high (to me) price. (but it usually ends up costing me almost as much or more. but I did it, NOT them!) and if I can do multiples after that it helps others too! Oh and it's a not brittle piece of 40+ YO plastic! it's a newish copy of old plastic. not perfect but close as I can make it.

That makes me think of ways around the high prices and attitude.and sometimes it works out!

not all people are like that thank goodness, There are enough good people, like on here to offset the other people who think their stuff is gold and your isn't! I'll pay a fair price for a part I need and will do so in the future again and again. but I'll give serious thought on how to do it myself. (even if I have to learn a new process to do it!) like casting resin or vacuforming mold making!
 
Mighty handy reference, 66! My switch is still working, but I wouldn't mind having a spare (or two) for the inevitable day. Thanks!

BC
 
64ragtop said:
Mighty handy reference, 66! My switch is still working, but I wouldn't mind having a spare (or two) for the inevitable day. Thanks!

BC
Click to expand...
swap over to relays in the circuit so it saves the original switch. there's a post on here that shows how it's done 2 relays 1 for up 1 for down. full load power to the relays and low load power to the switch. works great so theposter says. I know it makes a difference in my headlights for sure. 10.9v before relays 12.51 not running after relays= yellowish light to bright white lights.
 
I haven't seen that post, but I will. My thought is to run a #10 power wire to the area of the top motor and put the relays there. I'd use the original wiring and switch to control the relays. Maybe the top motor would run better and not sound like it's straining.

BC
 
66Dvert said:
I used the trial version kit of smooth on plastic's , now that I know how it reacts I'll be getting more of the stuff and some black tint to redo my dash bezels in black plastic so the spray chromer will have 1 less step to do when he sprys my bezels again for me. I want an A/C bezel with no radio and 2 power outlets (cigarette lighter) openings, plus I'm thinking of the intelletronix digital dash and don't want to just make a metal plate and screw it to the dash. I'm going to make a clay master the digital dash will sit in and flow into the heater/radio bezel like it was made for it (hopefully) then make a mold of that and cast it in black plastic too!
if I could only afford that 9-10 k for the spray chrome machine I'd be in heaven! can ya say custome chromed dash board! yeah!:cheers:

it'll be a little expensive for me to do since it's just a "one off " unless someone needs one like that or I just make a stock looking part and it looks/works good. then I might sell a couple. but I NEED the parts so I'm making them for me first and then others if they want em.
for example that first mold of this piece cost me 35 bucks and I will have to do another. (another 35) that's more than what some others were asking for the good used piece (50 bucks) BUT after the second mold is made to perfect the shape and hide the repair joint it will be just the cost of the plastic after that. so for both my convertibles it'l be cheaper AND I'll have a mold to be able to make another if I break either of mine.

nobody I know makes dash bezels for the 66 dart and it's hard getting hold of good radio bezels of any type that haven't been hacked. so I'll be making mine up as a precaution of damaging mine or weathering it.
later on I'll get a 65 64 63 radio /heater bezel and those STUPID defroster vents (that are overpriced like you would not believe 49 bucks for 2 pieces of plastic yeah right!) I'd pay 15 apiece if I had to but 25 apiece just ain't gonna happen. and see if people need them recast. I'm looking for the metal inserts that go into the radio bezel for the knob holes. I think I have found something that'll work so it doesn't break out so that's a plus. and the nuts that go onto the defroster vents I'm still looking for. I want to cast then vents with the 2 1/2-2 adapter already on it so you can use (cheaper in cost)aftermarket or junkyard hoses if you want to.

there is so many possibilities of making those/any type of parts it isn't funny.
Nobody makes many of our early A parts. if I can coral enough good parts to cast I might be able to sell em (or at least make em for me) all the plastic cast parts for the early A's that we need made. the hard part is getting a good part and paying a decent price for it first!

so far I have in the works

the top switch cover you are looking at right now. (almost done and ready to go.

convertible rear top side panels (that thin plastic piece the at covers the edges of the panel and the top boot covers and snaps to) black or white ABS or styrene. molds are almost ready for an epoxy coating and solid mounting to take to the vacuformer guy and have a test run made of (actually all 4 pieces. 2 outer skins and 2 inner covers sort of z shaped) I forgot to take a pic of the inner piece.

the inner piece that makes the top of the rear side panel on convertibles look good and hides the lift cylinders from the top looking down . done in black color.

and of course the radio bezels in different configurations.
I'm going for the A/C radio delete(gt style), radio and heater delete (gt style), A/C radio (gt style). heater/radio (gt style). you get the drift all the ones you find hacked up. cast in black so the spray chromer has less work to do for me (cheaper I like that)

kick panels with 4in round speaker kickouts to clear the drivers side (so far) fresh air vent), passengers side mold will be done in july hopefully)
then it's test fitting time on mine! this is the first pic before having to move it down 1 1/2 inch and out to clear the fresh air vent door.

Waiting on vacuformer guy to get the test pieces done and see if they fit!

mounting cup for my1966 dart all 4 stop/turn/tail LED tail light conversion kit(it works but you have to hot glue it) I want to make the total kit plug and play with out hot glue if I can. fronts too! (vacuformer molds again waiting on the vacuformer guy)

replacement bezels for my rear tail lights (this is gonna be EXPENSIVE!!!!) or maybe not if I don't try to cast or billet it . I have an idea about that.

I'm going to cast a new top plate for the wife's 66 dart console out of plastic and then spray chroming it to see what kind of durability I can get out of that. plus I can customize it with a cup holder and power plugs . (she wants 2 and lighted at that like the caliber but I can't see a way of getting 2 in there to look good!)

GAH!!! too many irons in the fire right now that's for sure!
at this rate I'll never get my car done! I'll always be putting on and taking off parts! !@#$%#$%:banghead:
Click to expand...

WOW ..... Great job on those panels!!!!
 
flynlady said:
WOW ..... Great job on those panels!!!!
Click to expand...
thanks
it's a slow process, make the mold, take to vacuformer, wait for him to get time to run a sample, get sample and say oh Sh#$ it doesn't fit right, make corrections and repeat process till it's right. I found that ABS has a tendency to shrink in BOTH directions instead of just 1 like HIP plastic...causing all kinds of problems with my molds about a 4% shrinkage. but when it's done right it's 2-3 times stronger and wear resistant and I'm rough on my parts!
 
66Dvert said:
thanks
it's a slow process, make the mold, take to vacuformer, wait for him to get time to run a sample, get sample and say oh Sh#$ it doesn't fit right, make corrections and repeat process till it's right. I found that ABS has a tendency to shrink in BOTH directions instead of just 1 like HIP plastic...causing all kinds of problems with my molds about a 4% shrinkage. but when it's done right it's 2-3 times stronger and wear resistant and I'm rough on my parts!
Click to expand...

What's your background? ABS and HIP plastic are way over my head ... Lol
 
flynlady said:
What's your background? ABS and HIP plastic are way over my head ... Lol
Click to expand...

Nah! nothing special as a background. I'm just to darn poor to pay anyone to do it and I LIKE working on my cars. I worked at a Automotive ( we made mopar windshield,sidelight and back glass) glass plant for 30 some years as a "heat treat" controller who ran the furnaces that bent the glass to shape and as a computer laptop/server repair specialist for 15 of those years as a side job,another 7 years as a Hughes Satellite repairman/installer. so nothing real special, just a grunt.

oops sorry I forget sometimes and use abreviations when I shouldn't sorry about that
ABS (Acrylonitrile - Butadiene - Styrene)is usually that black plastic that you see some aftermarket kickpanels and other custom stuff made out of. it's sturdy bendable and doesn't get stressed as bad as HIP.
HIP plastic does (High Impact Polystyrene) but hips has it's own place in the car parts trim world. those side panels for the rear of the convertibles are going to be HIP plastic a little thicker than the originals and left a little long on the back side to account for different manufacturers of the part they are made to cover. aslo
I'm redoing the top sortof L shaped piece that covers the top of the panel in black plastic or cast resin, depending on which looks better as a finished product.




View attachment !!!!!top piece for convertible panel.jpg


then I have to figure out who makes good armrest pads.
 
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