66 Cuda: horn works, no other power, no start

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kbbell

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Hey guys--I'm getting frustrated with this. Help!

Here's the background: Went to start the car the other day, it started & then quickly died. From that point on, the only thing that functions correctly on power is the horn. No lights, no start. Turning the key is silent, no clicking, nothing.

Have traced some things with the multimeter: I'm getting power to the alternator, the starter relay, pretty much everywhere you'd expect--UNTIL you turn the ignition key. Then the power goes out entirely at those points (but the horn still works).

I replaced the start relay, and it turned over last night--and then it died again. Seems like I've burned out the new relay maybe?

Tested the NSS, seems fine...can get it to turn over by jumping either the starter relay or the starter posts...have tried with 2 different ignition switches, same thing happens with either one...battery seems fine...alternator was replaced last year (although I know that's no indication that it's 100% ruled out)...grounds seem OK...have tried 2 different regulators, same result...

So...is there something that could be burning out the starter relay? Is there something else I'm missing entirely?

any help REALLY appreciated!
 
Have you checked the bulkhead connector at the fire wall?
Sometimes just disconnecting and reconnecting it will change things and at least give you a hint about what's going on.
 
Just tried that, no luck, but thanks for the input.

I'm starting to wonder about the ignition coil--think that's a possibility?

Quick test revealed 0 ohms across the terminals, and I just tried the spark-plug-in-the-output-wire test and got no sparks when I jumped the starter relay.

Don't know why a bad coil would fry the relay though....?
 
"No lights"

This and the other problems generally denote problem in the first of the primary power

Problems at the bulkhead connector,

Loose connections at or problems in the ammeter

"In harness splice" failed. This is a factory welded splice in the black ammeter wire up under the dash." I'd save that for last. That failure is rare, but can happen.
 
Hey 67Dart273:

Yeah I thought so too...Can't seem to track anything down there, though.

Ammeter is getting juice on both ends, and the gauge seems to be working.

And...I had already re-done that splice you mention because of a previous electrical problem (this was a year ago or so). I'm definitely saving that for last, as it was a real pain before.

As for the bulkhead connector...fact is, I probably DO need a totally new one. I see EvansWiring.com has one...any other resources for finding those things?


Regardless...the coil doesn't seem to be doing its job though. If there's a problem further up the chain, would it fry out the starter relay AND the coil?
 
that happened to me once a long time ago.horn only and nothing else.turned out to be a bad amp meter in the gauge cluster.hope that helps.
 
The thing is, you said you have no lights. This indicates a failure in that major circuit

CHECK these voltages under "failure" conditons. That is, example, if you have voltage at the ammeter, and you don't think the main splice is bad, then the lights should work

So turn them on........do they work?

If not, now RE check at the ammeter and see if you have lost power. If not, it's "further along."

"Wiggle" test the bulkhead connector.

The odd thing is the horn working. Originally, on my 67, power for the horn was pulled off the alternator

This means horn power had to go through the bulkhead.....through the ammeter.....back out the bulkhead...to the splice in the alternator output.
 
Kdsmith, I believe the ammeter is ok.. I'll double check it while I'm running back thru everything else again.

67dart, thanks for the suggestions. Electrical isn't my strong suit, but I'll definitely be following the chain per your message...

Will let you guys know what I find.

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kbbell said:
Kdsmith, I believe the ammeter is ok.. I'll double check it while I'm running back thru everything else again.

67dart, thanks for the suggestions. Electrical isn't my strong suit, but I'll definitely be following the chain per your message...

Will let you guys know what I find.

Posted via Topify on Android
Click to expand...

You can connect the two ammeter wires to the same terminal on the meter and eliminate the ammeter as a possibility.

Just so you know.
 
OK let's back up here

You say "no power no nothing no lights"

How can the ammeter work if you don't even have lights?

So let's back up

You have headlights?

Do you have power at the ammeter with the light switch on?
 
cuda65vpt, really? Never heard of that one...I'll check--but is it easily identifiable as a fuse? What exactly is it wired to?
 
I'm not sure it's factory equipment but it is the wire that goes(comes from) the starter and powers the rest of the electrical system.

I just re read you original post and it sounds like you got bigger problem than just a fuse. Sounds like a dead short somewhere.
 
quick update...still working on it but haven't had time to dig in as much as I'd like. I've found a few spots that needed some contact cleaning, etc...waiting on a new bulkhead connector and will continue to trace stuff to see what I find.

Thanks again for all the suggestions!
 
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