66 Dart GT HT Whatsitgonnabe?

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Hi Anders,

I wish i had pix showing the frame before adding the torque boxes in the 4 locations shown. I have a sheetmetal brake (bender) at work that can bend 1/8" plate to make these. They are similar to the ones made by a company called UScartool. But mine fit way better. The car is now right side up, and i will soon start making the boxed lower radiator support. If your going to make these torque boxes, id recommend making templates out of flat cardstock like cardboard type material thats "not" corrugated. All you need is one front and one rear template, flip it over for mirror opposite. My templates are for a 67/76 A body. I could trace my templates on paper and mail them to you. You may have to modify them a little to fit a 66 A body, but its better than starting from scratch. Now in the sheetmetal brake, that i cant help you with LOL.

Let me know
Matt
 
360DartGT66 said:
The last post was in response to Matt's post.

I think so, Ulf. I'd like my Dart to have the best handling possible. I've never driven an old US car but I have a feeling they cab be improved on. I'd like the car to sound mean, look cool and handle really well.

Do you have any thoughts on it?
Click to expand...

No, go for it!
 
I suppose whatever I decide to put on my car would fit on your '65 'race' car, Ulf? If I ever get around to making parts, making two sets would be easy and I'd be happy to send it to you.

Interested?
 
Hi Anders,

Would you like me to trace out my 67 up torque box templates on some craft paper and send them to you? Your 66 might be a little different, but i doubt by very much. You can transfer my tracings to cardstock templates and then modify to suit your 66.

Matt
 
moparmat2000 said:
Hi Anders,

Would you like me to trace out my 67 up torque box templates on some craft paper and send them to you? Your 66 might be a little different, but i doubt by very much. You can transfer my tracings to cardstock templates and then modify to suit your 66.

Matt
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If you want to, sure, I'll take any help I can get. :)
 
Here are a couple of pictures of my master cylinder. I've pulled it apart and right now I'm considering using it. Either with the VW brake booster that's mounted in the car or w/o brake booster.

Thing is, I'd like to know if the master cylinder is for PB or manual brakes.

I think the previous owner said it used to have PB but that the brake booster was leaking and he couldn't find a replacement booster which is why he installed the VW booster. He figured it would be easier to maintain a VW solution in Europe. Spare parts availability, metric fittings, etc.

edit: can't get the links to work. Posting pics directly in stead. :protest:
 

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Best thing is to decode the fender tag to see if it had power or manual disc brakes. Also power brake masters had different length push rods, and or diameter bores.

Summit racing sells an aluminum disc/drum master cylinder based on the late model mopar aluminum one with plastic reservoir.

If going with a VW one for availability of parts be sure to size the VW master with either the same size bore or larger for fluid transfer to be sufficient to work the calipers and wheel cylinders. Remember the caliper pistons require a large amount of fluid to move them.

I'd say if you can find a VW , volvo, saab one over there that meets the original bendix master specs or larger bore go with that. Unless yours is a disc brake master, and the bore isnt pitted or scored, then get a rebuild kit for it.

Hope this helps
Matt

Matt
 
360DartGT66 said:
Thing is, I'd like to know if the master cylinder is for PB or manual brakes.

I think the previous owner said it used to have PB but that the brake booster was leaking and he couldn't find a replacement booster which is why he installed the VW booster. He figured it would be easier to maintain a VW solution in Europe. Spare parts availability, metric fittings, etc.

edit: can't get the links to work. Posting pics directly in stead. :protest:
Click to expand...

That master cylinder could be used with either power brakes or with the proper master cylinder to brake pedal rod, manual brakes. After it gets downloaded (along with some other stuff), I'll post a picture of my power brake booster as restored by "Booster Dewey". It appears that I won't be able to use it with my Dutra Hyperpak on my wagon, but since my son said power disc brakes would be great on the Barracuda he's getting, the booster will find a home. I might send the other identical one I have and get it restored in case I switch to a regular 4 barrel intake (Offy/Clifford) in the wagon.

EDIT: Also that is a disc brake master cylinder - larger reservoir in the rear small in the front.
 
I just put my wire wheel to it and pulled the filler cap rubber gasket out which is actually in surprisingly good shape.

The cap has text on it and after reading a rather lengthy forum post I'm thinking it may be from '71 if the date code 221 means week 22 of year (7)1.

No idea if I'm correct and - frankly - not really concerned either.

With your info, Don, I think I'll try this without brake booster and see how I feel about it. If I'm not satisfied with the brakes, I'll get a VW master cylinder for a model with big brakes, like a Gofl GTI or a Passat.
 

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360DartGT66 said:
With your info, Don, I think I'll try this without brake booster and see how I feel about it. If I'm not satisfied with the brakes, I'll get a VW master cylinder for a model with big brakes, like a Gofl GTI or a Passat.
Click to expand...

You'll need a manual brake pushrod (or an adjustable one) which should be fairly easy to find. After you measure the master cylinder bore, you should be able to find a rebuild kit for it pretty easy from Rock Auto or maybe even over there!
 
I stand corrected on that one Don. I guess i learned something new today. I will file away that info into the ole memory bank.

Of course my 67 cuda is going to use a 74 dart booster, and a 79 cordoba master cylinder, because of the cordoba bigger front and rear brakes.
 
360DartGT66 said:
I just put my wire wheel to it and pulled the filler cap rubber gasket out which is actually in surprisingly good shape.

The cap has text on it and after reading a rather lengthy forum post I'm thinking it may be from '71 if the date code 221 means week 22 of year (7)1.

No idea if I'm correct and - frankly - not really concerned either.

With your info, Don, I think I'll try this without brake booster and see how I feel about it. If I'm not satisfied with the brakes, I'll get a VW master cylinder for a model with big brakes, like a Gofl GTI or a Passat.
Click to expand...

Make sure its going to port enough fluid for your calipers if going the VW route otherwise you will have soft brakes and not enough fluid pressure.

Check bore diameters on the VW master cylinders similar to stock bendix is optimal, bigger is a bit better but will reward you with touchy brakes.

If all you can find is 4 wheel disc VW masters, make sure the piston bore for the front wheels is close to what your current one is,

the rear wheel circuit of a 4 wheel disc master will want to port more fluid to the rear than drum brakes will need making it want to lock up rear brakes first. This is bad. You can use an adjustable valve in the rear brake circuit to dial down rear pressure so you can use a 4 wheel disc master with your disc drum combination.

Hope this helps
Matt
 
65 Dartman said:
After it gets downloaded (along with some other stuff), I'll post a picture of my power brake booster as restored by "Booster Dewey".
Click to expand...

Here is the booster I had restored. It's a Kelsey Hayes small diameter booster used on A Bodies. There is also a large diameter, more flattened style too. Both styles use the same brackets to raise the booster above the valve cover on a V8. The brackets are not needed for manual brakes.
 

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Nice work on that one. That thing in the front of the booster, between the master cylinder and the booster what,'s the name? I need one!


65 Dartman said:
Here is the booster I had restored. It's a Kelsey Hayes small diameter booster used on A Bodies. There is also a large diameter, more flattened style too. Both styles use the same brackets to raise the booster above the valve cover on a V8. The brackets are not needed for manual brakes.
Click to expand...
 
65dartcharger said:
Nice work on that one. That thing in the front of the booster, between the master cylinder and the booster what,'s the name? I need one!
Click to expand...

As far as I know it's called a spacer. I will look and see if I have one laying around!
 
If you should fin one, just throw it in with the other stuff that's going to me.

I'm on my phone right now so I'll comment on the other posts when I get back from picking up my son from football practice. That's soccer to you yanks. ;)
 
Matt, I know VW makes cars with rear drum brakes but I'm guessing they in most cases have tiny front disc caliper pistons. My guess is that the best solution would be to go for a master brake cylinder for a car with large front pistons and use an adjustable prop valve to adjust the rear brakes so they don't lock up.

I don't know if it is legal to have a rear brake disconnect valve in Sweden but that would sure be nice for burnouts. :burnout:
 
Anders,

Wilwood makes an adjustable brake bias valve for the line going to the rear brakes. One line in, one line out. Going this route you can leave the rest of the system including the distribution valve (proportioning valve intact. Nice thing about the brake bias valve wilwood sells is you can plumb it in, and have the knob come through the floor between your drivers seat and the door so you can reach down and dial in the amount of bite you want the rears to have. (Old race car trick )

Matt
 
A wilwood, and a jegs bias valve
 

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Great!

Boy am I tired. Too much activity today. I need to rest more. I'm exhausted.
 
Wow-hoo!!! My Ulf package arrived! :eek:ccasion: I'm picking it up as soon as my daughter finishes her lunch.

I'm peeing myself. Almost.:shock:
 
Well, that was a major disappointment.

When I got to the "post office" (it's actually a grocery shop with a post outlet these days) I'd forgotten the slip. Turn around and fetch it.

When I got back, it turns out that the Swedish Postal Service (Postnord nowadays, changed from yellow company color to Petty Blue the other year) sorted my package wrong and it is STILL EN ROUTE! :protest:

I will have to wait ONE WHOLE DAY LONGER! :banghead:
 
Ok, I still have a couple of things I need to do before I start the engine anyway. I think I need to route the transmission cooling lines.

Does it matter which goes where on the cooler?

And I'll need to finish hooking up the little electrical I need to get it started.
 
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