66 Dart GT HT Whatsitgonnabe?

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I inspected the stock lifters and they're worn concave, unfortunately. The cam lobes are pretty worn, too, so they're all scrap.

I suppose they could be re-ground in a specialized machine but there's no way that would be cheaper than buying new ones even though lifters aren't cheap.

I would love to find NOS stuff with all the stories from people wiping lifters and lobes of late.
 
Most of my parts have arrived at Ray's by now. Unfortunately, it seems Egge sent me stock bore pistons and not the 030 over I ordered. Irritating snag but it's a good thing we caught it before shipping them across the ocean ...
 
Theres been issues with new flat tappet lifters lately. Lots of junk out there. You need to beware. I'm hoping others will chine in. I believe the only USA made lifters are made by Hylift Johnson in Muskegon Michigan.
 
I ordered my cam from Jim @ Racer Brown. We spent about an hour on the phone talking about the engine, transmission, rear end and general body, the major difference was I was using a hydraulic rather than solid. His recommendation was a cam similar in specs to the 273/235 with some tweaks. It’s listed as .410 lift on both intake and exhaust, 202 duration on both @.50 (nominally 262) with a 106 centerline. He said I will like the way the motor performs. He said if the motor was over cammed, it would be a dog.
 
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360DartGT66 I've been hoping to get updates from Sweden. I've been trying to catch up. - Haven't had an opportunity to read ALL of the posts here since I'd taken my long break from FABO but I'm trying to.
 
1967 'cuda said:
360DartGT66 I've been hoping to get updates from Sweden. I've been trying to catch up. - Haven't had an opportunity to read ALL of the posts here since I'd taken my long break from FABO but I'm trying to.
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Hey! Wow! Long time no hear! Good to hear from you! I’ve been on and off and mostly away for the last couple of years too. A lot busier now that I work than when I joined. I hope you are well, John!

Main points of the events passed are:
- I bought a 500” stroker motor with a built 727.
- I decided I wanted to build my own engine so I’ve got a block at the machine shop right now and lots of parts in the basement.
- I’ve started importing blocks and transmissions form the US. Got one shipment arriving in about a week and seven or eight blocks in a month or so. I keep losing money but it’s fun!
- I modified a K-frame with custom engine mounts to fit the B-block in my ‘66 A-body engine bay.

Other than that, I’ve mostly let my car sit and bought more and more crap I don’t need
 
360DartGT66 said:
Hey! Wow! Long time no hear! Good to hear from you! I’ve been on and off and mostly away for the last couple of years too. A lot busier now that I work than when I joined. I hope you are well, John!

Main points of the events passed are:
- I bought a 500” stroker motor with a built 727.
- I decided I wanted to build my own engine so I’ve got a block at the machine shop right now and lots of parts in the basement.
- I’ve started importing blocks and transmissions form the US. Got one shipment arriving in about a week and seven or eight blocks in a month or so. I keep losing money but it’s fun!
- I modified a K-frame with custom engine mounts to fit the B-block in my ‘66 A-body engine bay.

Other than that, I’ve mostly let my car sit and bought more and more crap I don’t need
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Well, that escalated quickly! I guess I'd pictured it as more of a 'Clark Kent' build and less as being an Incredible Hulk build. Boy, Julie Andrews was prophetic when she said "the hills are alive with music". I can hear that big block singing now!

(now before you start correcting me about the difference between Sweden and Austria keep in mind that I generally only make one geographical distinction - from Nebraska vs. not from Nebraska)

Good luck with all that imported iron. - no wonder I can't find parts around here anymore. - they're all being assembled into ground pounding monsters in Sweden! - Better be cautious of avalanches!
 
1967 'cuda said:
Well, that escalated quickly! I guess I'd pictured it as more of a 'Clark Kent' build and less as being an Incredible Hulk build. Boy, Julie Andrews was prophetic when she said "the hills are alive with music". I can hear that big block singing now!

(now before you start correcting me about the difference between Sweden and Austria keep in mind that I generally only make one geographical distinction - from Nebraska vs. not from Nebraska)

Good luck with all that imported iron. - no wonder I can't find parts around here anymore. - they're all being assembled into ground pounding monsters in Sweden! - Better be cautious of avalanches!
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Ha ha!
I wouldn’t say it escalated ‘quickly’, it took a few years, actually :)

to complicate matters further, the engine I’m building is a 273 …
 
Well, there it is. My 273 fresh from the machine shop.

69384ACF-DD96-4C5A-968A-02B03372C815.jpeg


I’ve got most of the parts (found solid lifters and springs on Facebook marketplace last week, coming any day) but I realized I want full groove main bearings and I’ve got half groove. But ProParts in Rättvik have them coming in on Monday. Not much difference in price with shipping and customs.

This will be fun!
 
Started mocking up the bottom end and screwed up right away. Managed to nick the crank with the rod bolts so I tore grooves in the rod bearing on the one piston I mounted to measure chamber volume. Crap.

Anyway. Rod bearings can be bought one off. No biggie.

turns out I’ll get about 9.5:1 CR with the old closed chamber 273 heads. I think I’ll mill them to get up to 10.5:1 where I want to be.

Not really sure where to begin so I decided to paint the block first.

image.jpg


Needs one more coat on this side. I used Uncle Tony’s tip and went over the casting surfaces with a torch and a rag before cleaning with brake cleaner. Some oil seeped out but not much after the acid bath. I’m sure the paint will stick good now!

I think I’ll paint the valley too but first I need to grind off all the defects. I want it to look good and the oil to run easily.
 
*Googles Glyptal*

I will paint the interior but I was planning on using the same paint as I've used on the outside, this one:
hirsch14.jpg


Is Glyptal superior?

I've actually considered filling the pits that have no run-off with epoxi but I'm not sure it's a good idea.
 
360DartGT66 said:
*Googles Glyptal*

I will paint the interior but I was planning on using the same paint as I've used on the outside, this one:
View attachment 1715932309

Is Glyptal superior?

I've actually considered filling the pits that have no run-off with epoxi but I'm not sure it's a good idea.
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There's a bit of controversy concerning the use of coatings on the interior surfaces. Some people say that you risk it coming off and plugging up the lubrication system.

I strongly suspect that those that had adhesion issues failed to prepare the surfaces and apply it correctly. Obviously, any paint that would come loose could lead to catastrophic damage. I wouldn't advise anyone to use Glyptal who hasn't researched it.

Like most paints it won't want to adhere to a dirty (or oily) surface. Castings are notorious for being porous. - And a lot of people seem unaware that contaminants like oil can be present although unseen.

A successful application of this paint really should be preceded by thorough cleaning and followed with heat.

I've heard of lacquer thinner being used as one of the last cleansers. The fact that it evaporates quickly helps reduce 'liquid pockets'. Some guys will use a torch or heat lamps to cook out any leftover lacquer residue and then heat lamps or ovens to fully cure the paint.
 
We've used it successfully on several engine builds. - haven't had any issues at all. A lot of people remark about how 'cool' or 'detailed' the inside of the motor looks. I just enjoyed how clean our motors were. - During tear downs all it would take is a light wipe with a rag to get those blocks feeling (and looking) squeaky clean. I've heard of some guys putting it on cranks and rods but we only put it on the interior of the blocks and heads. (and we didn't put it in any water passages, - just the areas where oil was in contact with non-moving parts)
 
1967 'cuda said:
There's a bit of controversy concerning the use of coatings on the interior surfaces. Some people say that you risk it coming off and plugging up the lubrication system.

I strongly suspect that those that had adhesion issues failed to prepare the surfaces and apply it correctly. Obviously, any paint that would come loose could lead to catastrophic damage. I wouldn't advise anyone to use Glyptal who hasn't researched it.

Like most paints it won't want to adhere to a dirty (or oily) surface. Castings are notorious for being porous. - And a lot of people seem unaware that contaminants like oil can be present although unseen.

A successful application of this paint really should be preceded by thorough cleaning and followed with heat.

I've heard of lacquer thinner being used as one of the last cleansers. The fact that it evaporates quickly helps reduce 'liquid pockets'. Some guys will use a torch or heat lamps to cook out any leftover lacquer residue and then heat lamps or ovens to fully cure the paint.
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That’s what I did, I went over the block with a propane torch and a rag and then cleaned with brake cleaner.

Maybe for the inside I should use thinner.

This is my latest score:

33C161A9-BDD6-4F40-9D28-45531DDA66E4.jpeg


NIB solid lifters and valve springs, just the spec I needed. I paid $180, shipping included. The lifters alone are $185 from Jegs if you can find them.

Facebook Marketplace for the win.
 
Alright, I've been reading this (sometimes agitated) thread on SB oiling mods. In it, a user no longer present on the site, yellow rose, argues that the oil timing for the rods is off because the main feed hole is drilled at 12 o'clock, right at the top of the saddle, while the drillings in the crank are at about 45 degrees. This results in the best oil flow when the piston is 45* after TDC when it should be at 70* after TDC.

Yellow rose argues that GM got it right when they drilled the mains oil feed holes like this (see right hand saddle in the pic):

yVFHdX1.jpg


Yellow rose suggests a fix for this that involves drilling new oil feed holes on the bottom of the main caps and cross drilling the crank.

I have a different idea. I'm thinking I could drill down to the mains feed canal just like in the SBC block and drill a new hole in the top half of the bearing that meets up with that new hole. Since he is no longer on the site, I can't ask him what he thinks about it. @B3RE is involved in the discussion in that thread too, maybe he will grace me with his prescence if I tag him?

Does anyone else have any thoughts?

I think maybe I should slot the bearing or groove the saddle to allow oil flow to the cam bearing canal, but then again, the new bore will meet up with the exising one so supply to the cam wouldn't be compromised.

If I keep the exisiting hole in the bearing, the rods will be fed twice which can't be bad, right?

Now, I know this isn't necessary unless you plan on spinning over 7500 but I aim for 7000 and wouldn't mind going higher.

Thoughts?
 
Alright. Todays haul.

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Got this from a guy in New Jersey which is perfect. He’s got like 20 minutes to the port terminal and has his own box truck so shipping is zero. He put a pallet in the back, loaded up the stuff and boxed it in right there in the back of the truck.

It’s a ‘76 440 block (stamped T440) which looks really nice. No ridges, std bore, new freeze plugs and full groove bearings. Obviously rebuilt. Either it’s a great score (I think I paid $250 for it) or it’s been discarded because it’s junk. We’ll see, I guess.
Then there’s a disassembled 4-speed. Looks like it has a home made shifter mounting plate. Haven’t looked it over but seems to be complete-ish at least.
Came with a Z-bar.
The heads are 3 pairs of 906 and one rusty pair of 452’s with valves and springs. The retainers are a little funny. The intake valves have offset retainers and what looks like dual springs.
Not in the pics is a set of A-body pedals. We’ll see if I ever do a 4-speed conversion but at least now I have most of what I’ll need (I have a bell housing coming soon).
 
Oh, there’s a rusted up 440 short block in there, too. I think that’s where the 452:s are from. Also stamped T440.
We’ll see if I can get that apart at all. There’s been some diesel in the bores for a couple of months now.
 
Forgot about the crank. Cast 440 crank. Decent shape, light surface rust, no serious damages that I’ve seen so far.
 
Hello folks,
I'm still around. And things are progressing, I just don't have the free time to hang around here anymore. It's a little sad, of course, with all the friends I've made on here.
Anyway, I've got my 273 rotating assembly balanced with the cast Egge pistons and mocked up in the block.
1666677126670.png

As you can probably see, I drilled some extra flow-back holes for the oil and smoothed ot the worst casting seams.
I had the machine shop weigh the lightest rod and piston and do the crank work and then I weight matched the pistons myself to save $100. NEVER doing that again. What a PITA!
1666677064441.png

I've got the rotating assembly mounted in the block temporarily. I need to get the cam in there and measure clearances. Both valve-to-piston and valve-to-cylinder wall. I've decided on a Lunati camshaft: 235/245 solid flat tappet.
I'm not sure if I dare to order pushrods before I assemble the whole thing and measure. I think it SHOULD be ok, I've got adjustable rockers and I'm using solid lifters which was originally in the engine but maybe I should wait, right? (edit: I decided to wait. Use the stock ones for mockup and measure to get the correct ones in a better material).
I got a copy of Desktop Dyno and some advice from a Facebok group I recently joined (yes, I'm sorry. I cheated on you guys). This cam, retarded 9 degrees gives me a power peak (412 hp (!) but I'm counting on that) at 6,500 rpm with some pretty modest assumptions like:
- Closed chamber heads
- 10.5:1 CR
- Basic port work
- 1.88/1.60 valves
- high-flow single plane intake
- Small-tube headers with mufflers
- 750 carb
1666676995015.png

The timing set I have is a Cloyes that's indexable up to 8 degrees on the crank.
So I've decided to go with the 360 heads to get the 1.88 valves and the bigger ports. I'll be welding up the chambers to get them to 59 cc or smaller. I blame This Old Tony if it goes wrong ...
If need be, I'll run E85 to be able to run the CR I need, if 10.5 isn't enough.
I'll be doing some oiling mods, too. I'm planning on drilling a new oiling hole in the mains saddle to get oil to the rods earlier in the combustion cycle, around 45 degrees after TDC, like YellowRose was discussing in the thread I mentioned above.
I've also got two pallets of engine blocks waiting for me at the Port of Gothenburg. I'll be picking them up next Wednesday when I have a few days off. Not sure where I'm going to put them all. And I need to get them sold fast. It's a lot of money ...
I'm actually selling the car itself. I've realized I'm never going to finish the paint job and put it all together so I'm going to find a car that's running and driving in stead. I actually got my wife in on it. It was more or less her idea.
We'll see what happens to the 500" but I'm leaning towards selling that, too. I didn't build it myself, which is what I really wanted to begin with. I might keep the K-frame and the 727 for it if I get another early-A. I might get a 67 and up one in stead, just to make it easier to put headers on the engine and find wheels with the 5x4.5" bolt pattern.
Anyway, that's it for now.
 
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Wow!!! I think being around vintage mopar engines has turned you into quite the monster V8 kinda guy. Awesome!!
 
moparmat2000 said:
Wow!!! I think being around vintage mopar engines has turned you into quite the monster V8 kinda guy. Awesome!!
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Not sure about that but It's removed my fear. I don't feel intimidated by the task of building an engine. I think I have the support from this community to thank for that and also the guys at Roadkill.
 
Well, I started welding up the chambers on my heads.
0B9BD287-0A3F-4C99-A62F-0A07B4686F3A.jpeg



F7ED7851-1D8A-4C1A-A99D-A9ACED1A5526.jpeg


But look what appeared in the neighboring chamber.
8BF664A9-9400-4590-9F7A-1FF72982CF35.jpeg


I’m not sure if it was the fact that I sandblasted the port that made it appear or if it widened because of the welding right next door but I’m not fixing it …
I guess I’ll be using the 273 heads in stead.

Bummer.
 
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