66 valiant 170

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Now that you said that I remember you posting that in another post ( read too many the past few days to remember which one). Definitely sounds like putting my own kit together is the way to go. I’d rather buy good stuff and do it one time than redo it and “save” a few bucks right now. Thanks again rustyratrod.

I tell you how I do it. I determine all the sizes I need first. Then I goon eBay and search for older NOS hard parts like bearings and rings and lifters. I want older parts, because they're made in USA and normally they save money because they've been sittin "somewhere" for a long time and somebody's want to get rid of um. I buy all of my gaskets and seals new though.

If I were you, and you're going to use this car for a daily driver, I'd leave the 170 in it. They have a cube handicap, BUT, they also have a much lighter rotating mass and they spin up a lot quicker. That makes for a quicker and snappier ride.

On the flip side, if you're going to add some hot rod parts like camshaft, a two or four barrel and batter exhaust like an opened up stock manifold or a header, illed head for more compression and other go fast goodies, like higher numerical gears, I would opt for the 225. The bigger cubes will more readily take advantage of modifications. But trust me, a 170 in top tune will put a smile on your face. I speak from every day experience.
 
The only parts that are 170 unique are Pushrods, Block, Crank and Rods. If you put a 225 in it you will need to reuse the oil pan and pickup tube from the 170. If you put a 67 and earlier 225 in it you can reuse the flywheel and the only other issue is you will need is a 1 inch spacer for the exhaust pipe. If you put a 68 and later engine in it you will also need a 68 and up flywheel. Most if not all slants cranks are drilled and finished and a lot of cranks even had pilot bushings installed even if they had an automatic trans installed.
 
I tell you how I do it. I determine all the sizes I need first. Then I goon eBay and search for older NOS hard parts like bearings and rings and lifters. I want older parts, because they're made in USA and normally they save money because they've been sittin "somewhere" for a long time and somebody's want to get rid of um. I buy all of my gaskets and seals new though.

If I were you, and you're going to use this car for a daily driver, I'd leave the 170 in it. They have a cube handicap, BUT, they also have a much lighter rotating mass and they spin up a lot quicker. That makes for a quicker and snappier ride.

On the flip side, if you're going to add some hot rod parts like camshaft, a two or four barrel and batter exhaust like an opened up stock manifold or a header, illed head for more compression and other go fast goodies, like higher numerical gears, I would opt for the 225. The bigger cubes will more readily take advantage of modifications. But trust me, a 170 in top tune will put a smile on your face. I speak from every day experience.
I’m fine not doing any hot rod stuff on it. I’ve dropped a v8 in my dart swinger (have to replace the flex plate as soon as I get a second). This one I’m fixing up because it was my uncles last car he was working on and because I like tinkering on Mopar’s. This one is just a fun going around town car between trips in the dart. Thanks for letting me know how you get your parts together. I’ll start playing around on EBay to see what I can find. Thanks again for all of your input and help.
 
The only parts that are 170 unique are Pushrods, Block, Crank and Rods. If you put a 225 in it you will need to reuse the oil pan and pickup tube from the 170. If you put a 67 and earlier 225 in it you can reuse the flywheel and the only other issue is you will need is a 1 inch spacer for the exhaust pipe. If you put a 68 and later engine in it you will also need a 68 and up flywheel. Most if not all slants cranks are drilled and finished and a lot of cranks even had pilot bushings installed even if they had an automatic trans installed.
Ok cool stuff. I’ve never been around a 170. My dart used to be a 225 but after I blew the 3rd motor I swapped a v8 in but enjoyed the 225 when I had it. Thanks for letting me know what I can keep and transfer if I go that way. Definitely appreciate the feedback.
 
I’m fine not doing any hot rod stuff on it. I’ve dropped a v8 in my dart swinger (have to replace the flex plate as soon as I get a second). This one I’m fixing up because it was my uncles last car he was working on and because I like tinkering on Mopar’s. This one is just a fun going around town car between trips in the dart. Thanks for letting me know how you get your parts together. I’ll start playing around on EBay to see what I can find. Thanks again for all of your input and help.

Then I would leave that 170 in there. One thing I would do outside of stock would be mill the head .060" for some added compression. Even in stock trim, that will add some spunk and still be pump gas friendly. It will also assure you have a good, flat head surface. It also wouldn't hurt to do a skim cut on the block and get the deck square and straight and true to the crankshaft center line. I would only do just enough to clean it up, because the 170 is essentially a zero deck height engine. Chrysler's deck heights are notorious for being tall and crooked from spec, so I would make sure to have the block decked just enough to straighten it. That and milling the head will add some cost, but it's money well spent.
 
Nice little car you got there. I just saw it’s brother and had to do a double take to make sure it wasn’t you!

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Then I would leave that 170 in there. One thing I would do outside of stock would be mill the head .060" for some added compression. Even in stock trim, that will add some spunk and still be pump gas friendly. It will also assure you have a good, flat head surface. It also wouldn't hurt to do a skim cut on the block and get the deck square and straight and true to the crankshaft center line. I would only do just enough to clean it up, because the 170 is essentially a zero deck height engine. Chrysler's deck heights are notorious for being tall and crooked from spec, so I would make sure to have the block decked just enough to straighten it. That and milling the head will add some cost, but it's money well spent.
That sounds like a plan I’d like to take the motor apart and definitely have it checked out at a machine shop. I don’t know that my uncle ever did anything with the motor that’s in it. Not sure if he ever had a chance to do much with it. I’m keeping notes on everything so when I get to that point I’ll have everything ready to go.
 
I’m having a hard time finding a rebuild kit for mine. Think I should do the 225 swap? Seems like rebuild kits are pretty plentiful with those. If I can 64-66 that would be ideal but outside of oil pan, pick up, mounts, flywheel anything else I should consider? Oh and head pipe for exhaust.
I prefer the 170 over the 225. When the 225 in my wagon finally bit the dust at 300+ thousand miles I put in a really sweet low mileage 170 and also pulled out the tired automatic and put a 4 speed from a 65 Barracuda behind it.It's way more fun to drive now and gets great gas mileage when I travel.
 
I prefer the 170 over the 225. When the 225 in my wagon finally bit the dust at 300+ thousand miles I put in a really sweet low mileage 170 and also pulled out the tired automatic and put a 4 speed from a 65 Barracuda behind it.It's way more fun to drive now and gets great gas mileage when I travel.
I remember reading some of your posts as well. Sounds like it does a great job going to and from your camp. Pretty cool car btw!
 
I remember reading some of your posts as well. Sounds like it does a great job going to and from your camp. Pretty cool car btw!
I've been driving this wagon for 25 or so years now.This spring I'm going to start a restor on it.Should be fun making it solid again.Right now it's pretty rusty but I got quarters off a 65 Barracuda to work with , 4 rust free doors ,and a rust free straight front clip.Might use a 65 Barracuda front valance and grill in it .I like that it is unique. If you need help figuring stuff out just ask.Been playing with 64-66 Valiants and Barracudas since the early 1970's
 
I've been driving this wagon for 25 or so years now.This spring I'm going to start a restor on it.Should be fun making it solid again.Right now it's pretty rusty but I got quarters off a 65 Barracuda to work with , 4 rust free doors ,and a rust free straight front clip.Might use a 65 Barracuda front valance and grill in it .I like that it is unique. If you need help figuring stuff out just ask.Been playing with 64-66 Valiants and Barracudas since the early 1970's
Thanks man. I’ll definitely ask. I’ve had my swinger since I was 16 ( 20 years.... dang I feel old all of a sudden lol). I’m very new at the 63-66. I’m going next weekend to my uncles house to pick up the parts car. I think it was a 66 valiant but he cut in half for some reason. I was able to get a set of front doors and the parts car has the roof, rear floors, back bumper, trunk lid, back glass, rear 1/4s and tail lights, extra rear end etc. It’s going to be an interesting ride from savannah GA to Columbia, SC. Thanks again for all of the help. It’s awesome to have so many people willing to help.
 
You'll like the early cars. They are light.
 
You'll like the early cars. They are light.
I’ve only had this one for about two weeks and I’ve already fallen in love with it lol. I did figure out I need to swipe the latch mechanism out of the other door when I get it home next weekend. I’m surprised the back door didn’t open when it was being hauled back from savannah . For some reason the latch will open but won’t lock unless the lever is pushed back. This is going to be a fun car. My oldest son has laid claim to the dart and my daughter has laid claim to this one... we really have to discuss boundaries with these kids lol. But it’s a lot of fun getting them out there with me to wrench on them.
 
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