66 valiant dash pad?

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fonzy

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ok, a couple of questions. Is the dash pad on my valiant the same as a 63 valiant pad? it appears to be in the few places i have seen it...but i want to be certain of attachment points and such. Also, how is the pad attachted? is it just the 2 screws on each end? or is it also glued in the middle? i should know this before i go and start removing it. thanks guys, mine is seriously split and really does a disservice to the interior of the car. Does anyone have a reputable place to purchase the pad? i've seen a few online, but i always take someone's previous experience into account if i can get it.
 
ok, a couple of questions. Is the dash pad on my valiant the same as a 63 valiant pad? it appears to be in the few places i have seen it...but i want to be certain of attachment points and such. Also, how is the pad attachted? is it just the 2 screws on each end? or is it also glued in the middle? i should know this before i go and start removing it. thanks guys, mine is seriously split and really does a disservice to the interior of the car. Does anyone have a reputable place to purchase the pad? i've seen a few online, but i always take someone's previous experience into account if i can get it.

I have not purchased a pad. I have always recovered mine.
that being said .. your 63 should be similar to my 65 and 66. there are 5 holes in the metal dash it is easier if you remove the instrument cluster (disconnect battery first) and take out radio and glove box liner the dash pad has 5 studs that go through the holes and speed nuts ...umm I seem to think they were 5/16 or 3/8th's go on the back. I'm glad I took mine off after the dash was pulled from the car after I took the windshield out. I did take the dash pad off the donor parts car and it was together. I did have to remove the glove box liner,instrument cluster and radio to get it out. check and make sure the end pieces are removed first if your car has them. they unscrew from the bottom edge and you gantly lift and twist them to get them off they fit in the square holes on the top side of the dash
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end cap pieces
View attachment !!!!!!!end cap pieces go here.jpg


oles to mount the pad
View attachment !!!!!!!DASH pad holes.jpg


this is my choice since I'm cheap.

I trim the split vinyl off that is curled up and super glue the rest down onto the pad. You would be amazed at what superglue can do. I fill the cracks with it( I might cheat a little if the split is wider than 3/8" by using the trimmed vinyl as a filler) I sand the superglue level with the pad and then instead of just going to vinyl than might show the sanding marks I go for a softer cushioned look. I go to Jo-Ann fabric's and get a yard of headliner material, cloth backed 1/4" foam it's 54" wide and however long you want like a yard the headliner will use about 12" of that yard but I use it elsewhere so a yard is no biggie for me. I also pick out some marine vinyl that they carry and get a 1/2 yard of that (more if I'm doing door panels and rear panels.)
black if you are going black but a lighter color if you are going any other color. black is just too hard to go lighter with the SEM paint.
roll the foam out so that you have excess to go around the pad. then cut it off, mark the center line (side to side not center of car). next spray a coat on the pad after fixing it and on the cloth side of the headliner foam, wait for it to dry, then do it again,2 coats will hold it a lot better since the vinyl is not as porous and the foam. center the front edge on the foam and roll the pad down to the foam for a smooth rolling curve. pull the foam into the dips and hollows befor laying down the foam (since your on the cloth side you do have a small chance of moving it after you have pressed it down) now do the same for the vinyl to pad

here is mine, and yes it's painted to match the dash(unfortunately the top didn't match the dash like they said it would and I have to redo the dash pad top of the dash and door tops $%@#$%^$%^$:banghead:)
total cost was about 3 hours work(hey I'm slow) and $33.75 for the cost
$2.00 for 220 sand paper at the dollar store
$9.00 glue 3m #77,
$8.75 for the 1/3 yard vinyl (12" and it was TIGHT to the center of the pad, next time 1/2 yard is what I'll go for)
$10.50 for the headliner foam
$3.50 for the superglue

View attachment DSCF4113.jpg

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I think I am on facebook too much...I was looking for the like button to your response. Thanks though, this is interesting...I may just have to give it a shot.
 
I think I am on facebook too much...I was looking for the like button to your response. Thanks though, this is interesting...I may just have to give it a shot.

Your welcome. glad to be of help. there are a few tips to getting the pad on correctly
1. On the ends of the old pad. super glue em stiff so that when you add the new vinyl it holds a good shape so you can get the end-caps on.
View attachment !!!!scrap vinyl fill.jpg

2. use a heatgun( little heat and slow moving to help make the curves) for the curves in the center and on the ends of the dash pad. take your time you can always spray a bit more adhesive to re-activate the contact cement for a better stick.

3. on the inside where the vinyl wraps into the underside of the pad make small splices on the curved sections to make a smoother transition. Do not cut into it enough to show from the outside/top of the pad (dang can't find my innie shots) ok use this pic as an example.
they are just small pinches of material to gather it and them cut firming a V shaped dart on the inside of the dash pad


after it has dried for a bit and your sure it's glued on good and tight you can trim the excess material off the inside of the dash pad. It sounds lots harder to do than it really is.
View attachment !!!!!!doorpanel8.jpg
 
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