66 Valiant Starting Aggravation

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Chuckman

Chuckman

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I have a 66 Valiant that starts right up 95% of the time, the rest of the time it acts like the battery is dead. The battery is about four years old, but when it is working acts like it has plenty of power. The Starter has just been replaced, and also kicks with plenty of power. Drove it to church yesterday, and it fired right up, cruised around and it did great, then this morning it acts like its dead again. Last week, started up, to go to work, started up after work. Got home cut it off and in 30 minutes tried to Crank it and it would barely turn over. I jumped started it and it took right off. I drove it ten miles and cut if off, it would not start. Left it one the charger all night and it started again.

Since it cranks most of the time with plenty of power, is this a Battery issue? The car is a 3 on the tree with a 225 slant 6. Thanks!
 
Connections, connections, connections!! Its a phrase I've been preaching for years now!! Go throught the ENTIRE electrical system, especially the starting circuit and clean all of the connections, especially the grounds!! If it still does it, then you can trouble shoot the individual components!! Geof
 
check for a sticking brake light switch ,or a dome light switch sticking.
 
Do you still run point's Chuckman ? If the points are closed when the engine is shut off see
if you have a small amp draw by checking between the ground (-) battery cable by removing it and testing it with a volt meter between the (-) cable and (-) post of your battery
Just a thought :coffee2:
 
I have to assume you checked your battery voltage while running just to be sure the alternator is working properly. If so I'd pull the negative battery cable and put an ammeter in line with it to check current draw, it should be zero amps. Something is probably staying on and drawing current. That something could be a radio, glove box bulb etc. If you are pulling current start pulling fuses to find what circuit the draw is on. It should not be too hard to track down. You may also check the car at night and look for any lights still on. Good luck.
 
I had a battery that caused the same problem.
But you need to diagnose the problem when it happens.
 
I just got home, as I said the car would hardly turn over this morning, although the interior light burned brightly. I DID NOT TOUCH A THING< JUST LEFT IT SITTING ALL DAY. I just hit the key and it fired right up. This drives me crazy.

No sticking lights, and this is a base model with NO OPTIONS, the Alternator and the Starter are both new.
 
You can't just wish it will work, you have to systematically CHECK some things.

1...Make REALLY sure all lamps are OFF. Does it have an underhood or trunk lamp? glovebox?

2...Shut everything down, unhook the ground, and connect your 12V test lamp "in dim lighting" between the battery post and ground. Does it light? Look close? Does it light DIMLY?

If so, you have a drain.

3...If this shows nothing, get your multimeter. Set it up for the highest amperage reading the meter is capable of and replace the test lamp with the meter. Any reading? Decrease the meter range. Any reading?

If you don't know how to set up your meter, post a good clear photo of the meter, or at least the brand and model of the multimeter. We can step you through that.

4...If the tests above don't show anything, make CERTAIN the system is charging. You still have an ammeter? You understand how they work?

Get the engine warmed up, and the battery "normalized" (charged up after starting). Normally, the ammeter should be CENTERED in this condition. run the engine at a fast idle with all accessories OFF. Check the running battery voltage right at the battery. It should run about 13.8--14.2, not below 13.5, nor above 14.5.

Now turn on accessories, headlights, heater, etc. Again, with engine running "fast" recheck the voltage. It should hold steady at AT LEAST 13.5 and hopefully 13.8--14.2

5...If these checks show OK, remove the battery and have it "load tested."
 
I'm not sure how I could have battery drain it would hardly click the starter this morning at 45 degrees, and then starter 7 hours later I had full power to the starter at 70 degrees.
 
Sounds more like bad connections to me as well. Start checking all the connections as stated earlier.
 
Chuckman said:
I'm not sure how I could have battery drain it would hardly click the starter this morning at 45 degrees, and then starter 7 hours later I had full power to the starter at 70 degrees.
Click to expand...

You can lead a horse to water, but you cannot make it drink.

I've told you what to do. You can either stand there, drink beer and wish it works, or you can get busy and figure out the problem. I don't know what else to tell you. There are only so many things that can cause this...................

From your last description, this could be a bad cable or cable connection, or an intermittent such as a starter "going bad." When was the last time you cleaned and re-tightened the battery posts?
 
I cleaned the post when I put the new starter in last Friday. The Positive Cable is brand new too.
 
67Dart273 said:
You can lead a horse to water, but you cannot make it drink.

I've told you what to do. You can either stand there, drink beer and wish it works, or you can get busy and figure out the problem. I don't know what else to tell you. There are only so many things that can cause this...................

From your last description, this could be a bad cable or cable connection, or an intermittent such as a starter "going bad." When was the last time you cleaned and re-tightened the battery posts?
Click to expand...

you seem cranky but right on.:-D
 
Turned out to be a faulty ignition switch. Problem solved! :burnout:
Thanks for your suggestions!
 
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