67/68 barracuda rear window pull, reseal, replace question please

[5Starrob]

Hello, First time posting. Hope this is how it's done. Recently purchased another members 67 FB. Rear window leaks. Has a new seal. 68 style I believe? ( just looking again and looks like there is a locking strip so may e its a 67 style? Posted a
picture) and it has new 68 clips and SS trim. I do not think any sealant was used/added into the groves when installed so we (Apple Auto Glass) and I intend to remove, add sealant and pop it back together.

My question is, can this be done without removing all the trim inside that goes around the window? All the black shiny metal pieces? Looks like a big job to remove all of it?
Any comments most welcome. Thanks!

 

[Super-Cuda]

So

Hello, First time posting. Hope this is how it's done. Recently purchased another members 67 FB. Rear window leaks. Has a new seal. 68 style I believe? ( just looking again and looks like there is a locking strip so may e its a 67 style? Posted a
picture) and it has new 68 clips and SS trim. I do not think any sealant was used/added into the groves when installed so we (Apple Auto Glass) and I intend to remove, add sealant and pop it back together.

My question is, can this be done without removing all the trim inside that goes around the window? All the black shiny metal pieces? Looks like a big job to remove all of it?
Any comments most welcome. Thanks!

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So correct me if I'm wrong but you want to repair the leak from the inside and not from the outside?

If you are removing the trim and popping the glass out, it can be done without disturbing the interior.

Inside will require significant but easily done removal of all the metal interior panels and the back seat and hinges if its a folding seat.

I would use a garden hose and identify where the leak is before doing anything. My guess is a bad seal even if its new. That corner you are showing looks suspicious already.

 

[Kendog 170]

I agree with above. Climb in the truck with a flashlight while someone uses the hose on it. I am getting ready to pop my rear glass and replace the hardened molding. I bought 3M bedding compound in a caulking tube to do as your glass guy recommended. It always stays soft (black) .Good luck.

 

[mvh]

I really think you will want to remove all the interior trim, or you won't be able to see where it is leaking.

 

[harrisonm]

@Super-Cuda, @Kendog 170 and @mvh are right. You should remove the interior trim.
I have replaced 67-69 Barracuda Fastback rear glass before, and it is not difficult. Although you may be able to remove and replace the rear glass without pulling the interior trim, removing the trim is not at all difficult. Also, remember why you are pulling the window out. You are looking to fix a leak, NOT just replace the glass. So you will want the interior trim out of the way to look for the leak source. You will need to pull the stainless trim around the outside of the glass. Then You pull the glass out. It is VERY difficult to 'pop' that glass out and save the gasket without damaging the glass. I personally would not try to save the gasket at the expense of possibly cracking the glass. I would, 1) remove all interior trim, 2) Remove the exterior stainless trim and then use a hose to try and find the source of the leak. If you find it, great. If not, I believe you are still looking at replacing the gasket while reinstalling the glass, plus doing some sealing during the process. Then I would 3) Cut the gasket away with a sharp utility knife, 4) Pop out the glass from the inside, 5) reinstall the glass with a new gasket and using a little sealant during the install. Apple Auto Glass can recommend the type of sealant and the proper application. I have personally never used sealant, but you could use some around the metal lip.

 

[5Starrob]

@Super-Cuda, @Kendog 170 and @mvh are right. You should remove the interior trim.
I have replaced 67-69 Barracuda Fastback rear glass before, and it is not difficult. Although you may be able to remove and replace the rear glass without pulling the interior trim, removing the trim is not at all difficult. Also, remember why you are pulling the window out. You are looking to fix a leak, NOT just replace the glass. So you will want the interior trim out of the way to look for the leak source. You will need to pull the stainless trim around the outside of the glass. Then You pull the glass out. It is VERY difficult to 'pop' that glass out and save the gasket without damaging the glass. I personally would not try to save the gasket at the expense of possibly cracking the glass. I would, 1) remove all interior trim, 2) Remove the exterior stainless trim and then use a hose to try and find the source of the leak. If you find it, great. If not, I believe you are still looking at replacing the gasket while reinstalling the glass, plus doing some sealing during the process. Then I would 3) Cut the gasket away with a sharp utility knife, 4) Pop out the glass from the inside, 5) reinstall the glass with a new gasket and using a little sealant during the install. Apple Auto Glass can recommend the type of sealant and the proper application. I have personally never used sealant, but you could use some around the metal lip.

So


So correct me if I'm wrong but you want to repair the leak from the inside and not from the outside?

If you are removing the trim and popping the glass out, it can be done without disturbing the interior.

Inside will require significant but easily done removal of all the metal interior panels and the back seat and hinges if its a folding seat.

I would use a garden hose and identify where the leak is before doing anything. My guess is a bad seal even if its new. That corner you are showing looks suspicious already.

@Super-Cuda, @Kendog 170 and @mvh are right. You should remove the interior trim.
I have replaced 67-69 Barracuda Fastback rear glass before, and it is not difficult. Although you may be able to remove and replace the rear glass without pulling the interior trim, removing the trim is not at all difficult. Also, remember why you are pulling the window out. You are looking to fix a leak, NOT just replace the glass. So you will want the interior trim out of the way to look for the leak source. You will need to pull the stainless trim around the outside of the glass. Then You pull the glass out. It is VERY difficult to 'pop' that glass out and save the gasket without damaging the glass. I personally would not try to save the gasket at the expense of possibly cracking the glass. I would, 1) remove all interior trim, 2) Remove the exterior stainless trim and then use a hose to try and find the source of the leak. If you find it, great. If not, I believe you are still looking at replacing the gasket while reinstalling the glass, plus doing some sealing during the process. Then I would 3) Cut the gasket away with a sharp utility knife, 4) Pop out the glass from the inside, 5) reinstall the glass with a new gasket and using a little sealant during the install. Apple Auto Glass can recommend the type of sealant and the proper application. I have personally never used sealant, but you could use some around the metal lip.

@Super-Cuda, @Kendog 170 and @mvh are right. You should remove the interior trim.
I have replaced 67-69 Barracuda Fastback rear glass before, and it is not difficult. Although you may be able to remove and replace the rear glass without pulling the interior trim, removing the trim is not at all difficult. Also, remember why you are pulling the window out. You are looking to fix a leak, NOT just replace the glass. So you will want the interior trim out of the way to look for the leak source. You will need to pull the stainless trim around the outside of the glass. Then You pull the glass out. It is VERY difficult to 'pop' that glass out and save the gasket without damaging the glass. I personally would not try to save the gasket at the expense of possibly cracking the glass. I would, 1) remove all interior trim, 2) Remove the exterior stainless trim and then use a hose to try and find the source of the leak. If you find it, great. If not, I believe you are still looking at replacing the gasket while reinstalling the glass, plus doing some sealing during the process. Then I would 3) Cut the gasket away with a sharp utility knife, 4) Pop out the glass from the inside, 5) reinstall the glass with a new gasket and using a little sealant during the install. Apple Auto Glass can recommend the type of sealant and the proper application. I have personally never used sealant, but you could use some around the metal lip.

Thanks for the help and ideas everyone. I have an appointment Wednesday at Apple to pull the glass and try to fix it. The glass is fine and I intend to reuse. The seal around the window was recently installed new by the previous owner after the new quarters were installed and car was painted etc. New clips were added to this 67 so that 68 trim could be installed.
I am assuming that the leak is because no sealant was used. Also possible the seal was bad from new or that the install was bad. I hope to see once we pull the glass. I'll order a new seal if the old one is compromised. The glass place said they have a guy familiar with these cars. I am surprised this type of seal could ever not leak without any sealant added? though I have noted that some have said they had success without sealant.
I looked at removing the interior parts but I don't want to unless I have too. Looks like the side panels below the back windows would need to come out to get at some way to pull those side metal pieces that run up to the headliner. the lower piece that runs along the bottom of the glass was easy. Everything else looks like a major project. ( I live for projects lol, just no time at moment)

ps I had tried the hose. Crawled in the back, folded the seat down. Wife put water across bottom, no leak. Started up driver side and not up very far and in came a stream of water. Leaks bad lol. Can't see exactly wear but not sure it matters. Hope it's fairly obvious once window and gasket are out

 

[Super-Cuda]

Thanks for the help and ideas everyone. I have an appointment Wednesday at Apple to pull the glass and try to fix it. The glass is fine and I intend to reuse. The seal around the window was recently installed new by the previous owner after the new quarters were installed and car was painted etc. New clips were added to this 67 so that 68 trim could be installed.
I am assuming that the leak is because no sealant was used. Also possible the seal was bad from new or that the install was bad. I hope to see once we pull the glass. I'll order a new seal if the old one is compromised. The glass place said they have a guy familiar with these cars. I am surprised this type of seal could ever not leak without any sealant added? though I have noted that some have said they had success without sealant.
I looked at removing the interior parts but I don't want to unless I have too. Looks like the side panels below the back windows would need to come out to get at some way to pull those side metal pieces that run up to the headliner. the lower piece that runs along the bottom of the glass was easy. Everything else looks like a major project. ( I live for projects lol, just no time at moment)

ps I had tried to hose. Crawled in the back, folded the sea down. Wife put water across bottom, no leak. Started up driver side and not up very far and in came a stream of water. Leaks bad lol. Can't see exactly wear but not sure it matters. Hope it's fairly obvious once window and gasket are out

Great that you found the leak!

Now, save yourself some time and aggravation and get a new gasket.

I doubt you will be able to save the present one and the last thing you want to do is install the old one and still have a leak.

 

[Kendog 170]

I think Chrysler was to cheap to take the time to seal all their glass. I wouldn't be surprised if they leaked a little when new. Seemed almost all my darts got a drip or two during heavy rain back in the mid 70's. JMO

 

[5Starrob]

All fixed! Two hours at Speedy. Pull trim easy. Pulled glass. Cleaned up
Everything. Found a pin hole in the area the driver new quarter was welded in. Up on the side a bit. Also a bit but not much of a bow in the metal on each side in area new quarts were installed. Used primer and then black urethane sealant. Installed seal we pulled. Installed window then he added a bit of sealant under the rubber edge. Then closed licking strip. Added more sealant into gap between window and car body all around and smoothed it out really nice so very little place for dirt of moisture to sit. Careful not to get sealant on clips put ss trim back on. He cleaned everything really nice. Back out the door in two hours. Cost was about 200$ US and i gave guy a 30$ tip. Been raining ever since a completely dry inside

 

[4spdragtop]

Congrats! That's a beauty!

All fixed! Two hours at Speedy. Pull trim easy. Pulled glass. Cleaned up
Everything. Found a pin hole in the area the driver new quarter was welded in. Up on the side a bit. Also a bit but not much of a bow in the metal on each side in area new quarts were installed. Used primer and then black urethane sealant. Installed seal we pulled. Installed window then he added a bit of sealant under the rubber edge. Then closed licking strip. Added more sealant into gap between window and car body all around and smoothed it out really nice so very little place for dirt of moisture to sit. Careful not to get sealant on clips put ss trim back on. He cleaned everything really nice. Back out the door in two hours. Cost was about 200$ US and i gave guy a 30$ tip. Been raining ever since a completely dry inside

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