67-73 Abody frame Rail and Rad Support

-
Xela.zue

Xela.zue

Member
Joined
May 17, 2017
Messages
19
Reaction score
7
Location
California
I have a 67 Dart that was recently in an accident and the front end was pretty much totaled. Along with needing new fenders and a hood, I need to replace the entire Radiator support and inner fender on the passenger side. I might be able to straighten the passenger frame rail but replacing it, is probably a better solution. My question is, besides finding a donor 67-69 Dart, what other A body cars can I use for these needs (Rad Support, Fender Apron, frame rail)? I found a 73 duster at the pick n pull and was wondering if I can use it for the sections mentioned above?
 
Last edited:
I am so glad you are entertaining this.

I tried to talk my wife into buying it it is sooo clean.

I believe all A bodies 67 to 76 will interchange the rails forward.

Someone else will chime in for sure.

I know where 4 67 to 69 darts are here in CO but don't know about the rust factor. If you want a road trip.

I have seen a few socal 4 door darts for sale cheap.on Craig's list.
 
haha yeah, it's hard to just let it go. We keep switching between walking away and fixing it. My dad and I happen to be at a pick n pull and I saw the duster there, if its a match, that would save us a ton.
 
The frame rail is the same 67-76, but the inner fender changed sometime in 1971 that added a big recess for the charcoal canister. The core support uprights changed almost every year also, so it depends on what you want to do with the car, if it doesn't matter what it looks like to you then any year 67-76 will work and the 67 fenders and hood will fit.
 
BTW, I wrecked my 69 GTS into a telephone pole in 1979 and had to have the core support and inner fender replaced, the frame rail was bent but usable. Make sure you take it to a frame shop and have them pull the original wrecked parts to spec before anything is cut off. That way you will know if the drivers frame rail and other structure like the firewall and roof can be straightened before anything is decided about fixing the rest of the car.
 
You might also be able to get parts from amd they are getting out of the A body business bit might still have parts. Also many here have a lot of the parts.

I would bring it to a frame shop for a quote, might be more repairable than you think.
 
It may be better to stick with 67-72. I dont know for sure but the bumper mounting may be different between the two eras. The basic architecture is common between the two.
There definitely were changes in the openings in the core supports. I used a 70 to replace a 69 and there were minor differences.
 
Awesome, thanks guys all super valuable info. We spoke to one local frame shop and the gentleman came over to check it out. His recommendation is to cut the old passenger frame rail, from where it's bent, and weld a donor. Same for the Radiator support area and passenger fender apron. Cut and replace. He's asking 1800 for the work... cutting the old, welding in the new, and straightening things so they line up. Before we go through with this, we need to get mentioned pieces plus the fenders and hood so he can line things up. That's kind of the point of no return... once we start getting parts.
 
Not sure of cutting off a frame rale and butt splicing one in.

It takes longer but drilling out the spot welds will get you all the original strength back.

My bet is there is a member of two on your area who have done it and wouldn't mind comming over and taking a look.
 
Check out THIS thread starting around response #176:

Lookie what $5000 buys you....

I bought a wrecked '70 Charger and replaced everything structural forward of the torsion bar crossmember and it was actually quite easy. I used a complete front stub from a 1970 Belvedere.

If the parts car you can access can be carefully dissected with spotweld cutters and chisel work, you can do this and end up with it looking like it was never wrecked.
People have been doing this with B and E bodies for years since the finished values are often so stupidly high. It took awhile for the values of the A body cars to rise to justify the expense and effort.
Once you have dismantled a few of these cars, you will see how simple and easy they went together and come apart.
Please DO check out the link to the thread I posted above. That was my first effort and it has worked out quite well.
 
By the way, on the driver's side of the rad support is one of the sequence numbers that identify the car. If at all possible keep that piece, under the yellow radiator sticker.
 
If you can read a tape measure and weld, you have a good chance of success with this.
 
Xela.zue said:
We would just need to fill in the side marker lights and fender turn signals
Click to expand...
yes except the headlight buckets are different locations in 68 than 67.

Keep all the parts you took off.

You can measure the 67 and reposition the 68 to match.
 
Dana67Dart said:
yes except the headlight buckets are different locations in 68 than 67.

Keep all the parts you took off.

You can measure the 67 and reposition the 68 to match.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the info and motivation. I think we're going to pull the trigger on that 4-door and use it as a donor. Huge kudos Dana67Dart for sending it my way! Getting our hands on it will save us a ton of cash over hunting for the parts by themselves.

We'll see how the conversation with the seller goes today but if everything goes smoothly, looks like I'll be hitting you guys up for more help on this down the line.
 
MAKE SURE you look the frame rails and other parts over with a fine tooth comb.

Bring ramps or a jack and really bright lights.

And don't worry about the 4 door lovers giving you hell about cutting it up. :lol:

It is more important to save a 67 dart 2 door ht than a 68 anything. Our 67s get no respect! So payback is a *****! :rofl:
 
Find another frame shop. We had an '87 Daytona straightened after the engine bay was shoved over about and inch and a half (hit while parked in the left front). Cost about $350 in 2005 (or 2004). They didn't cut or weld anything.
 
Dana67Dart said:
Not a dart but you get the idea
Click to expand...


Dana67Dart said:
Not a dart but you get the idea
Click to expand...

Hello - Great video and thanks for putting it out. I have a 66 Barracuda, same frame rail issue on the driver side. 3 Questions. What kind of welder should I be using for a job of this nature, 2 Is AMD the best place to purchase the frame rail, 3 Where should I get the front-end frame measurements from?
 
Gandy Dancer said:
Hello - Great video and thanks for putting it out. I have a 66 Barracuda, same frame rail issue on the driver side. 3 Questions. What kind of welder should I be using for a job of this nature, 2 Is AMD the best place to purchase the frame rail, 3 Where should I get the front-end frame measurements from?
Click to expand...
AMD only makes rear rails for A bodies. If they did make them they would be 67+ variety and wouldnt work for your 66. You will need to find a donor from an original car.
 
I thought that ALL the front frame rails were the same except for 1967 and later, they spaced them further apart?
 
Last edited:
Some guy on here few years back bought a blue '69 340 4 spd fastback that was hit hard in front and sat for decades. He got an entire donor front clip, both frame rails, inner fenders, rad support, torsion bar cross member and swapped it in as one piece. Guy was a body shop tech as his day job.

That rust bucket '69 383 4 spd Cuda fastback that Graveyard Carz took 9 years to finish they did the same thing, entire front clup one piece. Could prob dig that episode up and watch it on Motortrend.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top