'67 Barracuda w/360

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tubbedamx

tubbedamx

Location Boise, Idaho
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Location
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Hi,
I am putting a mid 70's stock 360 with automatic tranmission into a '67 barracuda along with air conditioning one day soon.

I am wondering where I can be looking for a radiator "Who sells mopar radiators". I would like a stock appearing copper/brass with a fan shroud. I have searched around the internet/FOBA a little and not really found what I'm looking for.

Any recommendations on how many cores/size. I am looking for something that can cool in traffic with a/c on an 100+ summer day.

I'm ok with a nice used piece too. What cars/years can I look at.


Thanks in advance
Jim
 
stock 22 inch radiater really aint enough and the shoud that goes with aint much either. A later model 26 inch radiater with shoud will work better. You will need to cut a little to make the support opening wider.
 
First off if you are using a 70's 360 then you need to purchase a radiator for a 70 or newer A-body. The later small block motors have the water pump on the passemger side.

The heavy duty 22" radiator is readily available from most parts store. i got one from Advance Auto. You could go with the 73+ Duster 26" wide radiator but it will require cutting out the core support. The 22" one was used for AC use and with a stock 360 should work just fine. My 360 is built up quite a bit and the 22" heavy duty radiator handles my engine just fine.
 
Thanks for the info....I'll start there.

Thats good to know about cutting the opening a little wider. I have the engine compartment sanded to bare metal at the moment. I'm getting ready to paint here in the next couple of weeks.
 
So I got a really nice free 69 a-body 3-core radiator. Like it was said before, since I have a late model 360 the water pump is on the wrong side.

Can the radiator shop swap bottom tanks...if so where would I get the correct bottom tank. With the automatic tranny fittings there I don't see how they could just move the bottom rad. outlet over the otherside.

Any suggestions???
 
You could also use the 64-69 cast iron water pump which puts the lower outlet on the driver's side where you 69 radiator is. But then that opens another can of worms concerning the timing chain cover for the 360, which has the timing marks on the driver's side as well. The cast iron pump basically covers those marks up quite well). You would also need to change the timing cover to the early style and use the early bolt-on timing marker and remark the balancer. That's what I did on a 72 318 I rebuilt for use in my (soon to be my son's) 66 Barracuda. Good luck on either way you go.
 
Here is a pic of my 67 with a 3 core 68 radiator.I had the rad shop recore it and move the lower hose connection to the pass side. I'm using a stock shroud with a Jaguar thermal clutch and a flex-a-lite 17" fan. Two problems I'm having is finding a lower rad hose-a 340 from a 70 car wont work and I have to use a sleeve(from summit) on the lower connection on the rad. Rad is 1.5" and the W/P inlet is 1.750. If you get the rad rebuilt see if they can change the lower connection to 1.750. I'll end up using a flex hose which I dont want.
picture047rt6.jpg
 
The magnum swaps arn't as easy as everbody says, are they? I ran into the same thing as you.
I used the cast iron water pump with the brass bushing just like you installed, but I used a Mopar intake with the angled bypass hose fitting. I also used the bolt on timing tab that was mentioned before.
 
The aftermarket radiators dont have the correct looking tanks if you after the stock look. The Reproduction fan shrouds are garbage. You'll have to find used if you want the correct stuff.
 
get a standard 22" a body 70-up v8 rad, take it to a rad shop, have them go 3 row, hi efficiency core (3/8" tubes on center not standard 1/2" on center) and you will be set. if you are running dissimilar metal ion your engine, use a RADCAP brand radiator cap that has a zinc anode to prevent electrolysis.
 
You guys are saints!!!!!!....This is my first mopar and I must say I'm this site is a great resource. From the front-end questions I had earlier.

Thanks for the pictures and the advise.

Thats especially good to know the the lower rad hose and water pump outlet are different sizes. I'm not sure I would have thought of that. I also have that same radcap with anode rod in another project. Believe it or not the anode rods does corrode over time.

I'll hope to be going to the radiator shop sometime this week...now I have the direction I need.

Jim
 
One more question about fan shouds...

Is the bottom of the shrouds notched for the lower radiator hose???

Will a 67-69 shroud fit on a 70 style radiator?? Since the position of the lower hoses traded sides. In the local paper there are a few mopars being parted out as well as on this site.

Now that I'm sitting here thinking about it...
Its my guess all years of the shrouds will work as long as the width is correct. Since the tanks are on the bottom...does the shroud just come up the were the radiator core meets the tank...
 
redfastback said:
get a standard 22" a body 70-up v8 rad, take it to a rad shop, have them go 3 row, hi efficiency core (3/8" tubes on center not standard 1/2" on center) and you will be set. if you are running dissimilar metal ion your engine, use a RADCAP brand radiator cap that has a zinc anode to prevent electrolysis.
Click to expand...

Recoring it to three row is likely going to be over kill. My 360 can idle all day long in 90+ heat and the guage doesn't move with a stock 22" heavy duty two row.

Also, \6 fan shourds seem to be more common in the junk yard. If you flip them upside down they fit fine on a 22" radiator. I have been using one for over a year now more for keeping my fingers out of the fan (don't ask :\ ) than for the need for cooling.

I am using a thermal clutch fan. The clutch is a standard parts store replacement unit and the fan is from a mid 80's GM midsize. Total cost $35 verse the MP fan and clutch for $100+.
 
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