67 Dart Build Triangulated 4 link & Mini Tub

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Thanks rapom.Louis already sent me the info a while back.

$550 is out of my budget for the time being but the price doesnt really concern me. Having to get on a guys case to get my order does bother me though.

Actually $550 is about 1/2 of what most outfits want for thier hd 4 link kits.
 
Yeah it was kind of a pain for a while but he's a young and struggling businessman (23 and working full time to boot) so I was willing to go the extra mile with him. I have to say the kit is well worth the effort. It is MONDO heavy duty and will handle any kind of power you want to throw at it. I'd be way more worried about the structure of the back half of the car crumpling than anything in this kit giving way.
 
RESTO -- I bought (2) kits from Ricki (1 for me and 1 for MoparAl) same as Louis with the exception of we ordered the smaller bars since we are not making the same power as Louis plans. Fully adjustable as well. The kits cost me $325/each including shipping. Nice part is that If I decide to got with a boat load of power I can just order the bigger bars and swap them in since all of the other parts are the same except the bar size. MoparAl is installing his now and then will be doing mine after his is done. Good luck with your set up and Louis keep up the awesome inspiration!
 
Yup Louis is awesome! The mods just keep rolling along like it's nothing at all and I have to keep in mind just how much effort is really involved. It's a ton of work we're seeing here!

I will say that I have had excellent luck buying from the same type of person as you said he is,young and very busy.I bought solid alum K frame iso' and bolts etc in a group buy at farley's page when I had the cop car. Very good quality and 1/2 the price of firmfeels stuff.

With the canuck buck being so strong now would be the right time to buy. But I've only about $80 or $90 left in the fund as I have been very idle on the parts sales as of late,really making no effort as the market is too soft anyways.Plus most of the stuff I have is kinda heavy so not easy to sell,lol!I also kinda need to make a good score like stripping valuable parts for resale etc.

Oh well,a guy can always drool but damn it's a pita to have to wipe down the monitor etc..
 
I know what you mean about busted budgets. I had been saving up my pop bottle money as I was researching putting together my own 4 link system when I happened upon Louis's thread. Exactly what I wanted to do. By some miracle I had just enough {almost to the penny} saved to get the kit, shocks and brackets per Louis's info. Now the bank is empty again but I've got plenty pf parts to keep me busy for several months {a couple of minutes at Louis's speed !}
 
Yes the budget is gone. I've been throwing $5-10 in here and there but really need to get back on track with sales. Just cant right now,have too much stuff breaking in the house that needs my attention,lol.
 
Louis I want to pick your brain a little on your set up. I know you modeled your four link after the RMS Street Lynx, but did you consider mounting the shocks behind the axle? I was thinking behind the axle might provide more room to get the exhaust past the axle although RMS claims less wheel hop mounted in front of the axle. My car is more street/touring oriented where as your more strip oriented so wheel hop on launch may not be an issue for me. Pro/con thoughts on this? Anything you would do differently now that you have it completed? Thanks, Ron.
 
rapom65 said:
Louis I want to pick your brain a little on your set up. I know you modeled your four link after the RMS Street Lynx, but did you consider mounting the shocks behind the axle? I was thinking behind the axle might provide more room to get the exhaust past the axle although RMS claims less wheel hop mounted in front of the axle. My car is more street/touring oriented where as your more strip oriented so wheel hop on launch may not be an issue for me. Pro/con thoughts on this? Anything you would do differently now that you have it completed? Thanks, Ron.
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My gas tank will be in the stock location. If you move your tank you can mount the shocks behind the axle. With the tank in the factory spot there is no way to get the coil over shock back there.

The only thing I would do different is BACK HALF the whole car to fit 22" wide tires!!
 
Mad Dart said:
My gas tank will be in the stock location. If you move your tank you can mount the shocks behind the axle. With the tank in the factory spot there is no way to get the coil over shock back there.

The only thing I would do different is BACK HALF the whole car to fit 22" wide tires!!
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Thats a slippery slope buddy, dont ask how I know!!!!!
 
GRADE A WORK!!

let me pick your mind a little....i've always heard a 90* shock set up like you have is best for straight line hooking and 35* is good for like road course/street... what's your opinion? I'm wanting to build my duster to hook crazy on the streets through turns so if 35* is better is there a way you can do some adjustments to this set up to accomplish that?? THANKS
 
soaringcowman said:
GRADE A WORK!!

let me pick your mind a little....i've always heard a 90* shock set up like you have is best for straight line hooking and 35* is good for like road course/street... what's your opinion? I'm wanting to build my duster to hook crazy on the streets through turns so if 35* is better is there a way you can do some adjustments to this set up to accomplish that?? THANKS
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You could probably just move the upper link bars at more of an angle toward the center of the car on the shock tower. You would need to mock it up to see if it would work............it just might! If you left the axle stock length your shocks would start on the axle about 2.5" outward more toward the brake assembly and that would help you hit your target degree with the shocks.
 
soaringcowman said:
GRADE A WORK!!

let me pick your mind a little....i've always heard a 90* shock set up like you have is best for straight line hooking and 35* is good for like road course/street... what's your opinion? I'm wanting to build my duster to hook crazy on the streets through turns so if 35* is better is there a way you can do some adjustments to this set up to accomplish that?? THANKS
Click to expand...

Actually the only thing affected by the shock placement angle is the efficiency of the shocks and springs. At any angle less than 90 you lose effectiveness due to the triangulation of the force vectors. You are better off just putting the correct spring rate on the correct dampers as tilting them just puts extra stresses on the mounting points that are effectively useless for controlling the movement of the body/suspension.

I am interested in knowing where you heard that statement.
 
Car look great, supurb job on the rear install. One question, did you consider moving the axle back at all? I moved mine back 3/4" and it centered it nicely in the wheel opening, and also gives your tires a little more room up front.
 
Tincup said:
Car look great, supurb job on the rear install. One question, did you consider moving the axle back at all? I moved mine back 3/4" and it centered it nicely in the wheel opening, and also gives your tires a little more room up front.
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I have plenty adjustment in it to do just that. It will be moved back about 1/2" or so before I run the car. I want to keep it looking like the stock appearance. The tires from ma mopar were never set in the center of the wheel well, Plus there is not much room left to the rear of the tub. I only have about 1"" Clearance with the 28" Tall tire. I would say without doing a FULL TUB and Back halving the car a 28" tall tire is the MAXXXXX tall tire you could fit in there with a mini tub. I did all this figuring during the mock up.


What size are your tires and what car did you do this in??
 
I have to agree,Louis is top notch with his build skills! But I have to disagree about relocating the axle back, Wont this seriously affect weight transfer?
 
needsaresto said:
I have to agree,Louis is top notch with his build skills! But I have to disagree about relocating the axle back, Wont this seriously affect weight transfer?
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Mine is dead nuts in the factory spot. The tire is really tight in there no doubt. The only reason I will move it back is for EXPANDO of the tire when I am on BOOST at 30 PSI.............:-D
 
Recap of the clearances......

I have massaged the inner tub with an equilizer tool since these photos. You can see that it is pretty tight on the radius. If I would have put the rear end any further back there would have had to be extensive rework of the rear tub area for sure.

At the TOP of the tire right at the inner fender well there is the exact same side to side clearance as you see in the OUTER wheel well lip... It was alot of measuring and making sure before the B Body axle was cut 3 3/4 of an inch on each side. My first calculations were 1" Less and I almost went with it. Buttt I decided to put everything back on and recheck my measurements for the 10th time to make sure. I am glad that I did.


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Looks like you have plenty of room at the front edge of your fenderwell. That's usually the interference point on A bodies with taller/bigger tires.

Don't worry about tire growth, usually doesn't happen with radials, unlike bias tires that tend to increase in diameter with wheel speed.

Looks good.
 
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