67 Dart, no lights

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SkipperT

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Hi, New to this forum and Mopar A bodies! I recently purchased a '67 Dart (cloned to '68 GTS with 6.1 Hemi installed) I have discovered that only the headlights and turn signals work on the car. No tail or parking lights, no brake lights, no dome light, no dash lights, no hazard flasher. While obviously there is aftermarket wiring for the engine transplant and fuel system, it appears lighting system follows original format. So far, fuse box looks OK, but no power going to brake switch. Just looking for ideas of where to start before doing difficult replacement of headlight switch, ignition and/or TS switch. Thanks in advance!
 
check fusebox
check fuses
fusebox divided into 2 1 end for stuff you switch off and on, swicthed by the key) and 1 end for running the car and stuff that works with the key out and igntion off
2 fat wires feed the 2 seperate parts across the fuse box

check full compliment of fuses, check the holders and end caps are not corroded.


id then go to Mymopar site and download the factory manual.
67 or 69 is all they have but better than nothing. and print off copies of wire diagram and place them all so what goes off 1 page connects with where it starts on the next.... it will be useful later when all of this fails to get youthe progress you want :)

first check. wire from battery.... IT
goes to bulkhead connector
from bulkhead connector goes to master splice in the loom and then on to igntion switch, light switch and fuse box and up to the ammeter
it is complemented by another that comes from the alternator. dunno about US cars but on an Austrlian A body this bypasses the bulkhead connector. it won't on yours, and it goes to other side of the ammeter. there is a wire from the otherside of the ammeter to the master splice in the loom as mentioned above (which you can't see its covered in tape near the wiper switch, a crimped a soldered lump where fat wires interaface) .

so it kinda makes a loop from battery to ammeter and back to alternator so that both battery and alternator can supply the needs of the car at the appropriate times

SO if you switch on the igntion
and disconnect the fat wire at the alternator
if you can measure battery voltage between that fat wire and the body
this route through your bulkhead connector and ammeter is intact enough at least to show a volatge.
that says nothing about if it will carry the necessary current to run anything in the car...but at least its complete.

Next see whats live
and if a current will flow a few amps to light a headlamp bulb

headlamp bulb in holder with 2 long wires, sit it up on the cowl or dash
1 wire to a screw in the body or dash and flyling lead wire in your hand

dash tim off
guage cluster forward do not short out the ammeter i.e do the dismantling with the battery disconnected and when everything is carefully propped so it can't short out reconect battery

go round with your flying bulb lead seeing what has power
hit both sides of each fuse at the connector not the cap

and you will slowly see what you are up againts

places to check
foot switch
the connectors benhind the kick panel which feed the rear of the car emergency brake switch etc.
the lamp switch
the dome light A body, cheap car, dome light in some is insulated from roof by a bit of fibre board, if board has moved, fiddling with dome light can short its power connector to the inside of the roof, that will melt the power wire that runs up the screen pillar and across the roof. Its a pig to change, you have to pull new through with the old one.

unless you know the life of you headlamp switch get a new one. they have a bi metallic cut out in them which cuts all lights if the switch fancies it... these get problematic when its dark....

and if the domelight has shorted out its variable resistor coil in the switch will be burnt out

don't be tempted to junk the loom. its the last 5 inches and the connector in most cases that are the problem
linemans splice, shrink tubeing, a soldering iron and a few weekends costs way less than a full rewire.

Dave

EDIT [Damn, i was too slow]
 
You say "aftermarket wiring" and then "follows original format." That doesn't mean much on this end. Is it a factory type fuse panel?

First thing is to find out what is working or not or bad fuses or not in the fuse panel, plain and simple. All that you mention "not working" should be powered at all times. That is important, as that eliminates anything which goes through the ignition switch.

If this uses older style fuses, be ware, as rusty, damaged fuse clips can lose contact with the fuse and cause a power stoppage. The same problems can cause heating, and blow a fuse because of it. Examine the fuse panel carefully. Probe for power.

In this case, using a test lamp might be better than a meter because you can wiggle and jiggle stuff and see an indication / change more easily.

Try to test "under a load" so your tests don't lead you down a false road. That is, a bad connection will often pass enough power to show "good" on a meter or light a test lamp. But if you turn on the switch to that circuit, often the load will cause the bad connection to stop carrying power, and you can then "see" it.

IF THIS IS INDEED a factory stock harness that has been modified for EFI, then go over to MyMopar if you have not, and download a factory service manual (free) as well as the aftermarket, 2 page diagrams availabe in the "wiring" section. These are not often as complete or detailed, but can be easier to follow.
 
I have discovered that only the headlights and turn signals work on the car. No tail or parking lights, no brake lights, no dome light, no dash lights, no hazard flasher.

On a factory scheme.
Headlights are powered direct from the main splice.
Turn signals are powered from the key switch Accessory circuit.
Verify this - access is not too bad on a '67.

Dome, brakes, parking, hazzard are fused from the always hot buss in the fuse box. That's fed from the main splice.
Again, access is not too bad on a '67. Take the screw out and the fusebox can be lowered a bit.

Note that on a '67, except Barracuda, the front parking lights turn off when the headlights are turned on. This is just a matter of the terminal connection on the headlight switch.

I've posted photos of many of these components and schematics.
Do a search here in Electrical forum.
 
Thanks everyone for the feedback. I'll be busy this week trying the remedies. Again, thanks for the directions!
 
Here's the basic power distribution scheme for '67.
Note the turn signal flasher is not fused.
upload_2021-4-24_17-51-10-png.png


Locations
upload_2022-2-15_14-16-30.png


Top view of fuse box. There are two feeds, each one connects to two fuses.
upload_2020-9-21_9-53-13-png-png.png

Fixing the parking and tail lights will probably fix the instrument lights.
 
Welcome to the site ! You'll soon discover that Dart67273 and Mattax are IMO are great electrical Guru's .:thumbsup:
 
Here's the basic power distribution scheme for '67.
Top view of fuse box. There are two feeds, each one connects to two fuses.
View attachment 1715870406
Fixing the parking and tail lights will probably fix the instrument lights.

And on that note, a bit more explanation

The headlight switch has TWO power sources. The power for the headlights ONLY comes right off the black ammeter wire what is called the "welded splice" and IS NOT FUSED. The headlight circuit has a built in breaker in the switch

The tail/ park/ dash dimmer controlled lamps comes off a fuse.

And just so you know....................the instrument lamps are "a trick"
NOTICE in the photo of the fuse panel, the far right fuse. THAT is a trick. The dash dimmer control on the light switch (twist the knob) gets power from the tail/ park circuit fuse. Power goes through the dimmer, comes out on a TAN wire and goes to the top end of that far right fuse. The output at the bottom feeds off to all the dimmer controlled dash lighting on ORANGE wiring. The point is that use, in order to be "hot" and provide power to the dash lamps must:
1...The tail/ park fuse/ circuit must be working
2....The light switch must be "on" in either "park" or "headlights"
3.....The dash dimmer control (knob) must be twisted some to the right.

The other thing is that there are two power inputs to the fuse panel. One is switched from the key, and will be ONLY hot if the key is "on" in "run" or in the ACCessory position. The other buss should be hot at all times.
 
Hi all,
. The fix was so simple,a little embarrassed I posted before digging into it. Turns out contact in the fuse box on the outgoing side of the tail light fuse was corroded a bit. Cleaned it up, everything works fine. Got the car registered today, can't wait for decent weather and clean roads ! Thanks again for the input.
 
Hi all,
. The fix was so simple,a little embarrassed I posted before digging into it. Turns out contact in the fuse box on the outgoing side of the tail light fuse was corroded a bit. Cleaned it up, everything works fine. Got the car registered today, can't wait for decent weather and clean roads ! Thanks again for the input.
Post 5 LOL Been here done this................
If this uses older style fuses, be ware, as rusty, damaged fuse clips can lose contact with the fuse and cause a power stoppage. The same problems can cause heating, and blow a fuse because of it. Examine the fuse panel carefully. Probe for power. .
 
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