check fusebox
check fuses
fusebox divided into 2 1 end for stuff you switch off and on, swicthed by the key) and 1 end for running the car and stuff that works with the key out and igntion off
2 fat wires feed the 2 seperate parts across the fuse box
check full compliment of fuses, check the holders and end caps are not corroded.
id then go to Mymopar site and download the factory manual.
67 or 69 is all they have but better than nothing. and print off copies of wire diagram and place them all so what goes off 1 page connects with where it starts on the next.... it will be useful later when all of this fails to get youthe progress you want
first check. wire from battery.... IT
goes to bulkhead connector
from bulkhead connector goes to master splice in the loom and then on to igntion switch, light switch and fuse box and up to the ammeter
it is complemented by another that comes from the alternator. dunno about US cars but on an Austrlian A body this bypasses the bulkhead connector. it won't on yours, and it goes to other side of the ammeter. there is a wire from the otherside of the ammeter to the master splice in the loom as mentioned above (which you can't see its covered in tape near the wiper switch, a crimped a soldered lump where fat wires interaface) .
so it kinda makes a loop from battery to ammeter and back to alternator so that both battery and alternator can supply the needs of the car at the appropriate times
SO if you switch on the igntion
and disconnect the fat wire at the alternator
if you can measure battery voltage between that fat wire and the body
this route through your bulkhead connector and ammeter is intact enough at least to show a volatge.
that says nothing about if it will carry the necessary current to run anything in the car...but at least its complete.
Next see whats live
and if a current will flow a few amps to light a headlamp bulb
headlamp bulb in holder with 2 long wires, sit it up on the cowl or dash
1 wire to a screw in the body or dash and flyling lead wire in your hand
dash tim off
guage cluster forward do not short out the ammeter i.e do the dismantling with the battery disconnected and when everything is carefully propped so it can't short out reconect battery
go round with your flying bulb lead seeing what has power
hit both sides of each fuse at the connector not the cap
and you will slowly see what you are up againts
places to check
foot switch
the connectors benhind the kick panel which feed the rear of the car emergency brake switch etc.
the lamp switch
the dome light A body, cheap car, dome light in some is insulated from roof by a bit of fibre board, if board has moved, fiddling with dome light can short its power connector to the inside of the roof, that will melt the power wire that runs up the screen pillar and across the roof. Its a pig to change, you have to pull new through with the old one.
unless you know the life of you headlamp switch get a new one. they have a bi metallic cut out in them which cuts all lights if the switch fancies it... these get problematic when its dark....
and if the domelight has shorted out its variable resistor coil in the switch will be burnt out
don't be tempted to junk the loom. its the last 5 inches and the connector in most cases that are the problem
linemans splice, shrink tubeing, a soldering iron and a few weekends costs way less than a full rewire.
Dave
EDIT [Damn, i was too slow]