67 Dart Post Project

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One thing is for sure... I wouldn't have used so many high end parts if i had any intention of selling it. It will make breaking even pretty much impossible.
 
Here's a summary of whats been done to it. I think I'm gonna start my asking price around $20K

ENGINE
• 360 bored and stroked to 408ci
• 10.3 to 1 compression
• Approx 500 hp and 500 ft lbs
• Eagle forged stroker crank with ESP armor
• Eagle forged H beam rods
• Keith Black forged pistons
• RHS 2.02/1.60 cylinder heads
• Hughes 1.6 roller rockers
• Comp Cams 306S camshaft
• Edelbrock Victor Jr intake
• Holley 750DP carb
• MSD ignition
• Dougs ceramic headers
• 3” dual exhaust with X pipe
• Milodon 8 quart oil pan

DRIVETRAIN
• Rebuilt 8 ¾ rear with 3.55 Suregrip
• Rebuilt 833 4 speed trans
• Rear leafs relocated 3” inboard per side for tire clearance
• Rear wheel wells enlarged 3” per side for tire clearance (mini tub)
• Front disc brake conversion
• Hellwig front sway bar
• Suspension rebuilt with poly bushings.
• Sub-frame connectors

INTERIOR
• Custom dash insert
• 7 Speedhut revolution gauges
• Scat procar bucket seats
• New carpet, headliner, door panels, steering wheel.
• Floor pans completely replaced

EXTERIOR
• High quality PPG Pepper Gray Metallic paint and clear coat.
• Door handles, emblems, drip rail, locks, and mirrors shaved
• Fiberglass bumpers with hidden fasteners
• Flip top gas cap from a Barracuda
• Grille from a 1968 Dart
• High quality reproduction HEMI scoop
• Remote electric door and truck openers
• New reproduction taillights.
• Headlight wiring upgraded to utilize relays for greater performance
 
Changed the rear tires to 305-45-17 today. About an inch shorter and an inch wider than what i was running. Wheel wells look full in the pic but there's actually room for about 1.5" wider. Still can't get any traction but it's sure fun.

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Decided the engine didn't match the theme of the rest of the car so I started the blackout treatment. I'm digging it so far.

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I installed an Innovative wideband sensor last night to make tuning the Holley 750DP much easier. Cool part is that the gauge fits in the ashtray so I can easily hide it when it's not in use. Checked my manifold vacuum at idle and it's around 5". Since the stock power valve opens at 6.5 that would explain the overly rich condition the car has. I swapped it out to a 2.5 PV. I managed to get the idle to 13.7 on the wideband. Any leaner and the car would stall. Took it for a cruise afterwards and getting mid 12s at 60mph. Running pretty rich on the stock 71 primary jets. I think the 2.5 PV is slightly too low because when I accelerate lightly on the freeway the wideband hits about 16 before the PV opens to richin things back up. Gonna try 69 primary jets and a 3.5 PV next.
 
Wideband is such a great tuning tool. It is always interesting to see how far off (or on, if you are good) the 'butt' dyno is. I used to have a car with twin Mikuni sidedraft carbs and I could synchronize them by ear. Sounded great at full song when they were right.
Nates68
 
I found a new LC-1 with the gauge included for $120 on craigslist. Couldn't pass it up.
 
Feel kinda stupid but I think I found out where my oil leak is coming from. I've been all over the back of the engine trying to find it but could never stop it. I had completely ruled out that the trans could be the culprit because I swore the Redline oil I put in it was RED! Well, it's not. It's been leaking out the front bearing cover and the clutch( which is ruined now) was throwing it everywhere. I replaced every seal in that trans so I don't know why it's leaking. I'm ordering seals tonight and can hopefully fix it before Friday.
 
Getting pretty good at removing and installing the trans. Not sure if that's a good thing or not. Pulled it out and checked the front seal. It was definitely the culprit. The shaft is worn and pitted. I installed one of those shaft repair sleeves and put everything back together. Took 2 hours total. I'll take it for a test drive soon and verify that it's fixed. If it is then I get the pleasure of removing it again to replace the clutch disc that was ruined by the leak....
 
Drove the car about 20 miles after work today. Put a piece of cardboard under it afterwards. 3 hours later.... only 1 drop of oil!! That 1 drop is most likely because the inside of the bellhousing is still coated in oil. I'll clean everything when I replace the clutch disc. Anyone wanna buy a barely used centerforce clutch disc?? I'm sure it would hold up in a mild small block but it has no chance against the stroker.
 
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