'67 Idler Arm vs. '68

[RedFish]

These vehicles were daily drivers. Daily aint always smooth sailing. break loose some ice or snow, slide into a curb, and toe setting would change. It wasn't the arm itself but the single tab holding it that bent. that is why it changed to a stronger attachment.
A much worse collision could and would distort the whole K member. Owner dont know it until they remove the 4 large bolts that attach K member to frame rails. When they go to put it back, the bolt holes line up 2 or 3 out of 4. Some have found it the hard way. They bought a K member from a wrecked car in a bone yard. got it all painted and ready to throw away .
Tjis thread is not about entire K but just the early idler arm attach. My point is, find one of those warped K members from 68 up. Cut the 2 ear idler arm attach off and weld it onto the 67 K member. With some measuring you'll find the single ear you removed is right in the middle of the 2 ears you add ( so adding a ear above or blow that ear doesn't work just right).
I already have that piece from a 75 slant 6 K to weld on my 67 K when I need it.

 

[Jim Lusk]

I have never seen a catastrophic failure of either mount. In my experience, the '68-up is more prone to get loose at the k-member than the early arm, BUT it is not likely it (later arm) will ever come loose and fall off the frame.

 

[matthon]

No dog in this fight, but I have a 67 and researched this before, worried if I should be worried about it.
Manual steering, I don't see any flex anywhere when parked.
Interesting, I don't recall hearing that the mount would bend before the arm.

I actually pulled my k-frame last year, was going to at least reinforced some parts of it, but left the idler as is. Don't recall if I searched for a 68 mount or not, but mine had no signs of being cracked or deformed.

Ended up cutting access holes in the k-frame to weld the lca tubes to the inner k-frame.
They're welded to one side and just hanging in there on the other. Didn't want to just weld washers on the outside.
That bothered me more.

I also have an early b-body, same mount, power steering, I don't see any flex.

 

[Cuda Al]

The problem with the 67 design is that if it gets loose it will waller out the frame and there is no repairing it, not even with a new idle. That was my issue in the mid 80's, shop told me the issue and that the 68 would fix it, never looked back (in fact that idler is still in there).


Alan

 

[RustyRatRod]

Only if rusty says it is lol.

Since when did I say that? Don't put words in my mouth. I said I didn't know and that all I wanted was proof. So far all the proof is one is more difficult to get. That I can agree with. There's still no definitive proof one is weaker.

 

[moparmat2000]

Since when did I say that? Don't put words in my mouth. I said I didn't know and that all I wanted was proof. So far all the proof is one is more difficult to get. That I can agree with. There's still no definitive proof one is weaker.

Damn dude, dont get all defensive. I was just poking ya in jest.

 

[Detroit Iron]

The improved design may or may not be for safety, but it is also about improved steering. If you lay under the car (of a '67) and have someone steer the wheels back and forth, you can clearly see the idler flexing up and down. That translates to "play" in the steering. If you are out to improve your car; make it steer and handle better, then yes, I think the upgrade to a '68 at later style is the way to go.

Now.... MoparMat2000 can you sell us what we need to do this upgrade? I'm interested.

 

[moparmat2000]

Detroit Iron , I have one jig type fixture for locating the idler arm mount. I'd be willing to rent this to whoever needs it, as long as its returned. The idler mount itself the same from 68-76 all A body. If you can find one off a bent or rotted K frame, all you need is the jig to locate it. This fits in a large flat rate game box and ships for about $22. Currently talking to the OP about renting it to him to mod his K frame.

 

[6PakBee]

I've read and read and read that the stud mounted is inferior.....and I agree it might be, but I ask "WHERE" is the proof? Has anyone ever SEEN a failure that was 100% WITHOUT A DOUBT the fault of the supposedly "inherently inferior" design? I've been doing this a long time and have not.

As a fan of the '67 B-bodies that use the same setup, I don't think the inferiority is that the stud mounted version "fails". What I have had happen on two of my '67's is that the K-member side wears relatively quickly. Eventually when you are steering the tie rod end of the idler moves vertically up and down a LOT because the K-member end is worn out. The later through bolt design can tolerate a lot more wear before it acts like that. But I've never had an earlier one "fail', as in broke.