67 Steering Column - Help

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matthon

matthon

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Disassemble my manual steering column, it came apart quite easily.
The plan was to rebuild and get a new manual box.

Is this shaft junk?

Worn where the lower bearing should be, and it appears the collapsible shaft is extended.

I did a bunch of research on rebuilding a 67 one year only column, and just replacing the few parts adds up, more importantly I was unable to find info on my situation.

Is there a direct bolt in aftermarket column?

Is my steering shaft usable, or fixable?

Or is my only option a replacement shaft?

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The upper and lower shaft are held in position by two plastic "shear" pins. When forced to collapse they "shear" and allow the shaft to absorb the impact. To repair, remove the visible pieces of the shear pins. As you re-extend the shaft, put a sharp pick into the hole and you will feel the inner hole. You now have the original alignment. I install a small sheet metal screw into the hole to lock it in place. Straighten the outer housing and you are done.
 
It's actually extended, same concept in repair except the outer housing is fine.

I'm more concerned about the bottom of the shaft. The outside diameter of the entire shaft is 1" but worn smaller where the lower bearing should be, and not worn evenly.
 
Murray said:
The upper and lower shaft are held in position by two plastic "shear" pins. When forced to collapse they "shear" and allow the shaft to absorb the impact. To repair, remove the visible pieces of the shear pins. As you re-extend the shaft, put a sharp pick into the hole and you will feel the inner hole. You now have the original alignment. I install a small sheet metal screw into the hole to lock it in place. Straighten the outer housing and you are done.
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I would not put a screw or other metal in the hole. It's designed to collapse and reduce YOUR injuries!! Maybe hot glue or nothing at all. Once it's installed and in place, it really cannot go "anywhere"
 
I see Flaming River has complete columns for $653-$756. That's not happening.
I also see a column shaft on ebag for $300.
Looks like my next stop is fabo wanted section, just the lower shaft would do.
 
I started to say earlier, I'm not sure you need to replace that shaft. The bottom bearing does not need to be that "precision". In fact I'm not sure why you need them

Some other thoughts. In regard to the thread posted about fixing the lower bearing, consider turning the shaft barely enough to get it round and true, then devise a clamshell shim to make up the diametrical difference. Clamp that into something like a taperlock pillow block ball bearing. Or maybe custom make a bushing carrier for the outer sleeve and move it up the shaft onto "unworn" area.

There is likely LOTS of ways to skin this cat, as Crackedback says
 
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67dartgtgo said:
Check out this threa
Click to expand...
It is one of the many threads I read through, copied links and info, I even posted in that exact thread before.

67Dart273 said:
I'm not sure you need to replace that shaft. The bottom bearing does not need to be that "precision". In fact I'm not sure why you need them
Click to expand...
As noted by another member in that same thread, and others: because the slipper joint between the steering box and the column is a misalignment joint and not a support bearing.

Another added: Keep in mind that the bearing doesn't really need to be all that tight on the steering shaft. All it's doing is keeping the steering shaft from flopping around in the column jacket, so there just has to be more resistance between the bearing and shaft than there is in the bearing itself.

I would agree with both statements, and add the upper bearing is tight on the shaft, however there is a rubber ring between the bearing and the column.
That's a long way to go with little support, especially with manual steering.

I would agree that the bottom bearing doesn't need to be precise, as in held firm, as neither top or bottom are, one in rubber, the other in plastic.

In my case, the bottom of the shaft is not only worn, but worn unevenly. If I got a bearing with a smaller I.D. for the bottom, the shaft would be off center of the column tube, and I imagine that would not be a good idea.

I also believe a wasted lower bearing was responsible for the large amount of slop in the steering.
 
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matthon said:
It is one of the many threads I read through, copied links and info, I even posted in that exact thread before.


As noted by another member in that same thread, and others: because the slipper joint between the steering box and the column is a misalignment joint and not a support bearing.

Another added: Keep in mind that the bearing doesn't really need to be all that tight on the steering shaft. All it's doing is keeping the steering shaft from flopping around in the column jacket, so there just has to be more resistance between the bearing and shaft than there is in the bearing itself.

I would agree with both statements, and add the upper bearing is tight on the shaft, however there is a rubber ring between the bearing and the column.
That's a long way to go with little support, especially with manual steering.

I would agree that the bottom bearing doesn't need to be precise, as in held firm, as neither top or bottom are, one in rubber, the other in plastic.

In my case, the bottom of the shaft is not only worn, but worn unevenly. If I got a bearing with a smaller I.D. for the bottom, the shaft would be off center of the column tube, and I imagine that would not be a good idea.

I also believe a wasted lower bearing was responsible for the large amount of slop in the steering.
Click to expand...

I don't think that's all that bad considering just how flimsy the original lower bearing was. The nylon insert, which totally disintegrates in most cases, carries the whole lower alignment upon bearing failure. I think if you replace the bearing with something reasonably close, even with the distortion, and bring the set screws tight on the inner shaft, as long as you can secure the bearing inside the outer shaft it will work....I used a strap clamp before I found the now highly expensive unabtainium bearing kit. The bearing kits are still available on ebag for 68 and up but nothing I can find for the 2.25", 67 column.
On my first attempt at this I used an aftermarket bearing with a bronze bushing to replace the nylon insert knowing I'd have to do something different in the future. It wasn't perfect but it worked temporarily and was tight....and I could drive my car safely.
Even when I found and installed the 67 kit I still used a stainless strap clamp on the outer shaft.
Good luck....you'll def get it at the very least in good usable condition and it will make a huge difference.
I'll keep searching for a 67 kit and let you know if I find one.
 
Found it....check this out.
67 steering column kit?
Send C.J. an email or give him a call. If he doesn't have one in stock he'll prob make one up for you.
He doesn't have anything on ebay right now but I bet he can do something for you.
 
That thread link is saved on my list for 67 steering info on my pc.
Another issue is no one has everything for a complete rebuild, not even DMT. Just a pain really to source everything from different places in different ways, but whatever it takes.

If I can get a shaft, that would be nice, if not I'll deal.
 
I haves the shaft off my 67. I will check it tomorrow to see condition. You can have it If good I also have a bushing from Reilly Motorsport that is new for it. I replaced mine with a flaming River and used the column housing and floor and upper mounts.
 
Keep in mine that shafts for manual and power steering are different lengths.
 
I am sorry I have been out of town with work. Just got back tonight I will definitively check tomorrow
 
New issue, clearly bent, in more than one direction.

Is this column hosed?
If so, will a 68/69 swap in no problem?
Not sure if 68/69 are the same or better.

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I would think you should tear down further to see if/what is bent. Would the outer tube bent be an issue?
68/9 should fit, but I'm guessing.
T/s switch wiring may need to be changed.
 
It looks like the collapsible section is bent, in a few directions.
Top is straight, bottom is straight, inside sleeve is straight.

I'm not sure if it is possible to get the collapsible section true again.

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Just bend it back. Minor compared to what my old man gave me to work with after he obviously hit the steering wheel a little harder than he claimed shortly after getting the Bee !
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You could be good, as dadsbee said, stretch it back out, that'll work the "wrinkles" out of it lol. Once disassembled you will know more.
Looks like it's been "collapsed" a bit.
matthon said:
It looks like the collapsible section is bent, in a few directions.
Top is straight, bottom is straight, inside sleeve is straight.

I'm not sure if it is possible to get the collapsible section true again.

View attachment 1715640166
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Well, definitely the outer column is bent, the inner sleeve is straight, however I noticed the end is cracked, chipped, and deformed at the end - the trifecta of bs.

Checked the bearing, plastic, it's worn on the inside halfway through it.
They make them new, problem is half of the inner sleeve at the base is crap.

So even with a new plastic bearing, the cracked chipped hurting sleeve will only go in halfway.
I doubt that is how it was originally, and I'm thinking it needs the full length of the bearing for support.

Good times.

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