'68 barracuda ignition switch power on issue

[69cudaguy]

Hi guys,
I need some help. I have the wiring diagram for my 1968 Barracuda 383 S Notchback. I have an MSD ignition and coil.
Ok, so here's my problem...On the ignition switch the "IGN2" tab where the Brown wire connects should get power when switched to the "on" position and stay on when the switch is moved to the "crank" position and stay on again when released from the "crank" position back to the "on" position, because this wire goes only to the coil +.
So, the old ignition switch wasn't giving this Brown wire (the IGN2) tab when moved to the "on" position, it was only giving power in the "crank" position. So, I took the old ignition switch out and pulled it apart to see the inner working of the switch.
Sure enough the Brown wire (IGN2) tab doesn't get power in the "on" position, only in the "crank" position.
So, I went to the auto parts store and bought a new ignition switch specifically for a 1968 Plymouth Barracuda 383. I'm having the same frigging problem!!!
Do you think both the old and new switches are bad? Were these ignition switches designed this way for some reason in 1968? I can't imagine the coil only getting power when cranking, and losing power once released to the "on" position.
At this point I'm thinking I have to return this new ignition switch and try and find one that gives power to this IGN2 tab when in the "on" and "crank" positions. But, I don't know if anyone makes one or where to get it.
Any help with this that anyone can provide is EXTREMELY appreciated.
Thank you in advance!!!

Attached is a picture of the Ignition switch wiring...

 

[mderoy340]

You have two switched ignition wires. Ign 1 is blue, Ign 2 is brown. Ign 1 has power in run position and feeds power to the coil thru the ballast resistor. Ign 2 has power during cranking and feeds the coil a full 12 volts for starting, bypasses ballast resistor.
If your running an MSD you want to splice Ign 1&2 together to feed the MSD box switched ignition input lead. Doing so provides power during crank and run.

 

[69cudaguy]

mderoy340, YOU'RE THE MAN!!! I thought about doing that, but was afraid to. BTW, the people at MSD are no F'n help. Thanks for the help! I truly appreciate it! This site is the absolute best thing in the world.

 

[69cudaguy]

Ok mderoy340, I should ask you where to splice into this IGN1 "Blue" wire. There are two Blue wire inputs to IGN1, one from the Brake Light Feed on the dash cluster, and one going straight to the Alternator Regulator (bypassing the resistor). I'm guessing the one that runs to the Alternator Regulator, but I don't want to guess.
Thanks!!

 

[mderoy340]

I'm guessing you are mounting the msd on top of the inner fender, if so the easy way is voltage reg feed and brown ign feed under the hood. If in doubt stick a meter on each and test with the ignition switch. This will also check the firewall connection is good to go. use page 19 diagram attached file. Have fun.

 

[69cudaguy]

Thanks a lot man! Like I said...You're THE MAN!!

 

[shutudown4]

mderoy340, YOU'RE THE MAN!!! I thought about doing that, but was afraid to. BTW, the people at MSD are no F'n help. Thanks for the help! I truly appreciate it! This site is the absolute best thing in the world.

Yes. I completely agree
I told the guy
U must be unhappy w your job
Y don’t u quit?

 

[shutudown4]

Hi guys,
I need some help. I have the wiring diagram for my 1968 Barracuda 383 S Notchback. I have an MSD ignition and coil.
Ok, so here's my problem...On the ignition switch the "IGN2" tab where the Brown wire connects should get power when switched to the "on" position and stay on when the switch is moved to the "crank" position and stay on again when released from the "crank" position back to the "on" position, because this wire goes only to the coil +.
So, the old ignition switch wasn't giving this Brown wire (the IGN2) tab when moved to the "on" position, it was only giving power in the "crank" position. So, I took the old ignition switch out and pulled it apart to see the inner working of the switch.
Sure enough the Brown wire (IGN2) tab doesn't get power in the "on" position, only in the "crank" position.
So, I went to the auto parts store and bought a new ignition switch specifically for a 1968 Plymouth Barracuda 383. I'm having the same frigging problem!!!
Do you think both the old and new switches are bad? Were these ignition switches designed this way for some reason in 1968? I can't imagine the coil only getting power when cranking, and losing power once released to the "on" position.
At this point I'm thinking I have to return this new ignition switch and try and find one that gives power to this IGN2 tab when in the "on" and "crank" positions. But, I don't know if anyone makes one or where to get it.
Any help with this that anyone can provide is EXTREMELY appreciated.
Thank you in advance!!!

Attached is a picture of the Ignition switch wiring...

My 1968 Plymouth car manual shows ignition switch wiring is completely different than ALL mopar ignition switches
It shows the black accessory wire is plugged into the ignition2 position
Also shows the yellow “ST” wire going to the where the switch says “ACC”
Oh and there’s absolutely NO power anywhere accept from the battery directly

 

[4spdragtop]

I would bet someone has been under that dash in all these years and that the FSM schematics are correct.

My 1968 Plymouth car manual shows ignition switch wiring is completely different than ALL mopar ignition switches
It shows the black accessory wire is plugged into the ignition2 position
Also shows the yellow “ST” wire going to the where the switch says “ACC”
Oh and there’s absolutely NO power anywhere accept from the battery directly

View attachment 1716306752

 

[Mattax]

67-69 Dart Ignition Switch Pinout

I was board one day so I checked continuity on all the pins of an ignition switch, The switch is reported to be a 67-69 dash mounted Dart compatible switch. An "X" means the pin to itself The green highlight indicated continuity "Open" means no continuity "Closed" means continuity There is a...

www.forabodiesonly.com

Why do 68 & 69 dart iginition switches have different # ground plug ins?

I have two ignition switches. I want to use my 68 because I have a really nice main harness. The 68 has 6 plugs but only has 5:? Could someone clarify. See photo thanks!

www.forabodiesonly.com

A-bodies don't have a use for a ground terminal.

There has been some questions about connection changes 67-68 and 69. That 68 FSM diagram may be wrong. I don't have a 68 to compare with.
Here's a 67-68 (and probably 69) replacement switch with the posted diagram from above and as observed it does not match up to the labels on the start, Accessory and Ignition 2 (start) terminals. The wiring should match as drawn below.

Here is the factory '67 connector. It matches the SMP replacement switch marking

 

[67Dart273]

My 1968 Plymouth car manual shows ignition switch wiring is completely different than ALL mopar ignition switches
It shows the black accessory wire is plugged into the ignition2 position
Also shows the yellow “ST” wire going to the where the switch says “ACC”
Oh and there’s absolutely NO power anywhere accept from the battery directly

View attachment 1716306752

I am pretty sure you are incorrect on this statement. I just looked up the 68 and 69 manuals which I downloaded from MyMopar and they match, and they match what Mattox posted above. Were you maybe viewing the connector from the wrong end? These are laid out as if looking at the switch terminals