68 Barracuda Notchback

-
Trad68 said:
Yes, i am second guessing that decision as well for that same reason. Anyone know of a powder that is more like the stock look? We buy powder now from Prismatic and Cardinal.
Click to expand...

Check out Black Jack. It's my factory replica go-to.
IMG_20230818_113632.jpg


IMG_20230818_113615.jpg


IMG_20230818_113705.jpg
 
Well after taking a few weeks off to Deer and Pheasant hunt i am back at it.. The big project to get the engine out is now complete. It went way better then expected. The engine cart worked great, may need to make a few tweaks before everything goes back in.
65.jpg


Mounted the front body cart wheels. Very happy with how they work. Need to get the back installed next.
63.jpg


I think i need a bigger garage..Haha..
64.jpg

Scraped about 5lbs of Colorado sand off the top of the trans..
 
I am finally in strip the car down to bare metal mode. So nice to be able to push the car around the garage with ease. Now i have till spring to get it ready for the body shop..
66.jpg
 
Spent the weekend removing old dry undercoating. The needle scaler worked great for this.
67.jpg
 
Started the engine teardown this weekend. Still not sure on the directions I'm going to take. Really want a street cruiser but still fun stoplight to stoplight.

69.jpg
 
I think i finally have every nut and bolt removed and all the old undercoating is off the car. I am now ready to start striping paint and see what i have to work with. Still on the fence on having some of the hard to reach stuff media blasted.

71.jpg
 
Started tearing the block down. Nothing alarming yet. Engine definitely has some miles on it.
Got a quote to get the car dipped at Redi-Strip $4200-$4800. Not worth the money for this project.

72.jpg
 
That car looks really solid wow that is so nice to find one like that.

I put US Car Tool sub frame connectors on mine. They have a factory frame rail stock-ish type look. They make the car drive like a modern car no body flexing creaking rattling. Completely changes the driving experience. The way the car feels the way the suspension absorbs bumps in roads they transform the car.

PXL_20230909_173210440.MP.jpg


PXL_20230909_172725248.jpg
 
340sFastback said:
That car looks really solid wow that is so nice to find one like that.

I put US Car Tool sub frame connectors on mine. They have a factory frame rail stock-ish type look. They make the car drive like a modern car no body flexing creaking rattling. Completely changes the driving experience. The way the car feels the way the suspension absorbs bumps in roads they transform the car.

View attachment 1716210684

View attachment 1716210685
Click to expand...
I was looking into US Car already. Was thinking of just adding the torque boxes and not the connectors since i am only running a small block. Also didn't what to goof around with the stock brake and fuel lines.
Did you blast the bottom of your car before priming? Looks really nice.
 
Trad68 said:
I was looking into US Car already. Was thinking of just adding the torque boxes and not the connectors since i am only running a small block. Also didn't what to goof around with the stock brake and fuel lines.
Did you blast the bottom of your car before priming? Looks really nice.
Click to expand...
just 'notch' the connectors where the pipework will run under them, making sure to either sleeve them or make the notches big enough to clear them (or both).
neil.
 
Trad68 said:
I was looking into US Car already. Was thinking of just adding the torque boxes and not the connectors since i am only running a small block. Also didn't what to goof around with the stock brake and fuel lines.
Did you blast the bottom of your car before priming? Looks really nice.
Click to expand...
Replaced entire floor due to rust that was there since 1980 or so. I moved emergency brake cable over toward trans to run straight back. Then made custom fuel and brake lines to run up insides of frame connectors. Extra work extra time not trivial but complexity of lines is low not terribly difficult.

I replaced spare tire well around 15 years back. All rust due to water leaks so rusted from the inside out.

Luckily your car is nice and solid and don't have to spend all the time money on rusted floors..

PXL_20240218_185411089.MP.jpg
 
Last edited:
Trad68 said:
I was looking into US Car already. Was thinking of just adding the torque boxes and not the connectors since i am only running a small block. Also didn't what to goof around with the stock brake and fuel lines.
Did you blast the bottom of your car before priming? Looks really nice.
Click to expand...

I did frame connectors AND torque boxes; jack up one corner of the car and three wheels come off the ground and none of the panel gaps move.
 
340sFastback said:
Replaced entire floor due to rust that was there since 1980 or so. I moved emergency brake cable over toward trans to run straight back. Then made custom fuel and brake lines to run up insides of frame connectors. Extra work extra time not trivial but complexity of lines is low not terribly difficult.

I replaced spare tire well around 15 years back. All rust due to water leaks so rusted from the inside out.

Luckily your car is nice and solid and don't have to spend all the time money on rusted floors..

View attachment 1716211433
Click to expand...
Did you just do the tire well or the whole floor? That is the only place i have rust thru is around the tank bracket on the tire well. didn't know if the tire well floor patch is easy to put in or i should just do the whole floor.
 
Trad68 said:
Did you just do the tire well or the whole floor? That is the only place i have rust thru is around the tank bracket on the tire well. didn't know if the tire well floor patch is easy to put in or i should just do the whole floor.
Click to expand...
I did the tire well around 15 years back and entire floor over the last year. For tire well I butt welded the patch panel in with seam a couple inches up from the bottom. It would be better to do entire trunk floor, better results, and can also clean out paint insides of rear frame rails. Here is my spare tire well patch project:

Barracuda Trunk Rust Repair
 
Scored an A-Body 8-3/4 3.23 sure grip locally this weekend. Should be a nice upgrade. Came out of a 69 Barracuda S car. Not sure if i should just rebuild the drums or go disks?

74.jpg
 
Weekend update. Finally pulled the pistons and crank out and cylinders look surprisingly good. Rod bearing looked good. A few for the crank bearings had some marks but nothing crazy. Off to the engine shop to get everything hot tanked and checked.
I have also brought another project home. Have been looking for a d100 short box Sweptline for some time and one popped up. Was out in Portland for it whole life as a farm truck. Should be a fun shop truck project. I love my wife!! Actually, this one was her idea..

25.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top