68 Cuda fastback suspension rebuild...

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4mulaSvaliant said:
There is also a Dart running around here with the same set up. However it has rally wheels on it and it was a matter of careful choice of tire, and trimming the inside lip of the fender well. I didn't do it but it must work. I seen it! LOL

Longgone do you know Butch? It was his car he sold about 2 years ago. I think the car has changed hands quite a bit since. It was a very clean little dart. 73 I think.
Sorry to High jack the thread. I digress! LOL
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Funny you should bring that up. It was Butch`s Duster I saw today that has the B-body rear in it that I had mentioned earlier. :D
 
Mopardude318, thanks for all the detailed images and descriptions. Freaking awesome. Very inspirational. Looks like you are a motivated man!
 
Since you didn't mention the ebay Std shift column I'm guessing you didn't win the bid?

What was the final winning bid?
 
Joe Mc said:
Since you didn't mention the ebay Std shift column I'm guessing you didn't win the bid?

What was the final winning bid?
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The winning bid was $227 plus $20 shipping. But I found out that it was a power steering column, and I wanted a manual steering column. So I stopped bidding.

There is a member on this site who is in the process of selling me a floor shift manual steering column for $150. I am anxious to see if it works out ok! I hope so because I REALLY need it!!
 
Dude,

I never realized there's a difference between a power steering column and a non. What's the diff - length of main shaft?

Learn something new every day - I love this site!
 
Had to use a 3/8" thick spacer so the wheels would fit. The are made by Lug Nut King out of billet aluminum and are hub centric:
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Mopardude318 - what didn't fit that required using the 3/8" spacer? Was it the upper balljoint/a-arm? Going with the firm-feel upper arm help any?
 
To use this specific rim (17x8; 5.72 backspace) I think it is mandatory to use a 3/8" spacer. The rim for sure hits the outer tie rod end without it. I'll post a pic for you so you can see...
 
A picture would be great. It will help with my wheel project.

I want to use the 17" x 8" American Racing Torq-Thrust M Wheels with my ride. They look just like the Mustang Bullitt wheels.

Here they are as listed on summit:
Front http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARE-105MS7866A/
Rear http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARE-105MS7865A/

At $180, they aren't as cheap as the Bullitt take-off wheels but there are a couple of advantages.

The fronts are advertised at the American Racing site as having 5.68 backspace and I'm hoping that I won't need a spacer. Summit lists them as 5.625 BS. I am assuming 5.68 is correct just because it is more restrictive...

The big plus is the Rears - I can get the matching rears with only 4.5" backspace. I wont have to change my rear end (got a 8 1/4 SG 3.21 now) and the outside lip will be bigger than the front wheels - giving them the illusion of being wider even though they are still 8" wide.

Thanks again for your great documentation.

Doug
 
Awesome thread, Ive read it all the way through but im curious about one thing. Exactly which b body rear did you use to be able to use those wheels? The b body rear ends vary quite a bit in width over the years i think.
 
74scampga said:
Awesome thread, Ive read it all the way through but im curious about one thing. Exactly which b body rear did you use to be able to use those wheels? The b body rear ends vary quite a bit in width over the years i think.
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I used the 68-70 B-body rear. Specifically, I think it came out of a 68 Charger.
 
Great stuff- thanks for posting! Can't wait to hear how it goes down the road.
 
nice , one question would the stock a-arm hit like the rms ?
 
Well, I installed my Hellwig sway bar again, and here are some pics that shows where I'm having interference problems. It seems to me that the bar is a little too long, and it also interferes with the lower control arms...

These two pics show where the sway bar end links interfere with the strut rod...which I don't know why they do..
2visb34.jpg


2lkemok.jpg


Here at full lock, tire comes in contact with the middl3e of sway bar. I put a piece of tape where I think it should have a bend.

11lhpw0.jpg


21ninfb.jpg


same for the other side

2j4yjxg.jpg


and here is another shot where the end links hit the strut rods...

9a22k9.jpg


iy0o7k.jpg


I think I might cut a little corner off the lower control arm so the end of the sway bar doesn't hit it...

9izu5s.jpg


21czi4z.jpg


I don't know why I'm having all these damn problems...Any ideas? I think I might just be forced to run the '73 style k member, and the LCA's with sway bar tabs mounted in the middle...the sway bar is narrower and would mount inside the strut rods, instead of outside of them...But hell I don't know...I'm thinking who the heck needs a stupid sway bar...loosing alot of interest in this car...anyone wanna buy it?
 
So this is the one that I have, and the one below it is a Hotchkis, and If I copy the bends from the Hotchkis bar I think it'll give me the clearance I need...

2exrjv5.jpg


23upuly.jpg


But I don't know...Just from the picture it looks like to me the hotchkis will fit better...I'm at a loss right now, and a little over whelmed...I think I'm loosing it....
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
Most don't.


What is the part number on that sway bar? Something looks totally wrong.
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Ok I didn't know that. The bracket for the sway bar is located on the bottom of the LCA on my cuda. The way the sway bar links are angled is different from what mopardude318 has.

I agree that there seems to be something wrong..... to many problems there.
 
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