68 dart with 340 six pack

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tdbrick67

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I need some info I have 68 dart with 340 I was thinking about putting a factory 340 Six pack with factory six pack air cleaner will this setup have enough clearance under my hood I don't want any scoop on the hood and want the sleeper look also is there any mods that need to be done to have it working right
 
Mods, yea don't do it. An air gap intake an good 4 bbl will still beat that six pack. If you're going for looks, it's hard to beat a six pack.
 
I agree six packs are cool but performance wise it isn't worth it. Just put a six pack air cleaner on a 4 barrel...joking!
 
Not to concerned about performance I like the look of the six pack with the air cleaner worried more about the hood clearance and if any mods need to be done
 
It will fit easily. I have one on my 67 Dart with factory flat hood.
 
Don't worry about the 6 pack it will pull hard. There are a few F.A.S.T. Racers that wish Chrysler built 6 pack duster and demons, the stock 6 pack that was tried was 3 mph faster than the highly modified t-quad and intake on the same engine.
 
I had one on my 340 for years, they are very driveable and look awesome . If you do buy one , buy it new . The original ones are usually beat to hell . The only reason its not on my car now is because i put a hemi in and im running dual quads
 
Thanks for the info so than it should fit without cutting up the original hood? I want to use the original six pack air cleaner?
Will I be able to use my original throttle cable? Any mods need to be done? Is it hard setup to make it run properly
 
tdbrick67 said:
Thanks for the info so than it should fit without cutting up the original hood? I want to use the original six pack air cleaner?
Will I be able to use my original throttle cable? Any mods need to be done? Is it hard setup to make it run properly
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1. Abosolutly no cutting on the hood.
2. I am using the original six pack air cleaner.
3. I am using my original cable. Works well.
4. No too bad to get setup. I found some instrucutions on here somewhere, I will give you a link to them when I find it. If I can't find it I will scan the copy I have and post it for you.
 
Thanks for all the useful info is there anything I should be looking for example parts or trouble spots when buying a six pack setup
 
Go to the link below and check out the billet base plate designed to replace the original one on the rear carb. It will make tuning a whole lot easier. With the original base you will have to pull the carb off the intake to adjust the mixture screws because they are on the front of the base plate and there is no other way to get to them. The Promax billet plate has the mixture screws angled toward the side of the base so they can be adjusted with the carb on the engine and running.

http://promaxcarbs.bizland.com/id1.html
 
Where is that article about putting the accelerator pumps in the outside carbs and eliminating the progressive linkage? I forget who does that, but it makes that lag in the acceleration when opening the outside carbs disappear! Maybe someone remembers the name of the company who offers that service! Geof
 
cosgig said:
Where is that article about putting the accelerator pumps in the outside carbs and eliminating the progressive linkage? I forget who does that, but it makes that lag in the acceleration when opening the outside carbs disappear! Maybe someone remembers the name of the company who offers that service! Geof
Click to expand...
There use to be a company called "Six Packs To Go" that did a great job modifying the original 6-Paks... adding proggresive linkage, accellerator pumps, etc.
i believe that company is long gone now. As far as i know the only company that does anything is promax now.
 
Thanks again for all the useful information you guys are great! The deal on the six pack may have fell through! Can anyone tell me what would be the going price on a good complete six pack with reproduction parts?
 
Summit has them for around $2000.00 with carbs, intake, linkage, air cleaner. If you go with the PRO MAX system add another $500.00 for the end carb plate, center metering block, and the end jet plates. It made mine easy to dial in on the dyno.
 
you can look for the old DC/ hustle stuff mechanical carbs. they flow more than the stock carbs about 1150cfm to the stock holley 975cfm, they pop on ebay time to time around $800
 

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There was no 440 carbs these were the hi performance replacement for both 340 & 440 stock carbs. They were originally a ford experiment that got dropped.
 
No it's not needed it was used more for run on, with the key in the start and run position it was energized and would engage the throttle arm to hold it open. When you turned the key to off it would de energize and the throttle would close off. The repop solenoid is week and doesn't have the strength to hold the throttle position. The originals if you can find one that works or a nos standard or AC brand is your best bet but they a VERY expensive!!
 
Thanks again! You all are very helpful! Wealth of knowledge! Does anyone have any info on setting up the 6 pack properly! Especially the proper setup of the carbs
 
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