puregts
Well-Known Member
As per request for Joe Dokes:
How to EFI your fuel tank:
pic1 - locate where sump needs to be and mark (it helps the radiator shop later)
pic2 - drill holes at least one inch in dia. rear of the front edge of the sump and in the lowest portion of the tank. The sump gets used as a braking trap and the return can go in to the port next to it allowing the return fuel to cool and not have to come completely back from the tank interior above. This will keep the last remaining amounts of fuel, should your wife like to run on empty a lot, from starving the system until it really is critical. No more stalling when under heavy handling or hard stops and launches.
pic3 - weld in place as soldering probably won't be able to support the weight and may fail. The sump also adds an extra 1-2 quarts of fuel.
Pic 4 & 5 - have tank soldered (because your welding just isn't good enough) and internally coated as the welding ruins the galvanizing and it helps as a leak preventative for the soldering guy. Plus, you'll get a drain plug in the sump.
pic 6 - 68's have a fuel tank strap bracket located on the bottom of the spare tire well. It even comes complete with extra holes just for this from the factory! Not really, but there are holes there that can be used for this. This makes an excellent place to hang the fuel pump and primary fuel filter. Mounting behind the rear bumper is asking for trouble if rear ended and there's not a lot of places the pump can be placed to begin with and even less that allow for gravity feeding.
Pic 7 - pump bracket
Pic 8 - Pump & primary filter on bracket
Pic 9 - Pump w/ bracket installed. Remaining outlet on sump is now used as a return inlet back to the tank.
Pic 10 - Rear view assembled in car
More pics available as needed...
How to EFI your fuel tank:
pic1 - locate where sump needs to be and mark (it helps the radiator shop later)
pic2 - drill holes at least one inch in dia. rear of the front edge of the sump and in the lowest portion of the tank. The sump gets used as a braking trap and the return can go in to the port next to it allowing the return fuel to cool and not have to come completely back from the tank interior above. This will keep the last remaining amounts of fuel, should your wife like to run on empty a lot, from starving the system until it really is critical. No more stalling when under heavy handling or hard stops and launches.
pic3 - weld in place as soldering probably won't be able to support the weight and may fail. The sump also adds an extra 1-2 quarts of fuel.
Pic 4 & 5 - have tank soldered (because your welding just isn't good enough) and internally coated as the welding ruins the galvanizing and it helps as a leak preventative for the soldering guy. Plus, you'll get a drain plug in the sump.
pic 6 - 68's have a fuel tank strap bracket located on the bottom of the spare tire well. It even comes complete with extra holes just for this from the factory! Not really, but there are holes there that can be used for this. This makes an excellent place to hang the fuel pump and primary fuel filter. Mounting behind the rear bumper is asking for trouble if rear ended and there's not a lot of places the pump can be placed to begin with and even less that allow for gravity feeding.
Pic 7 - pump bracket
Pic 8 - Pump & primary filter on bracket
Pic 9 - Pump w/ bracket installed. Remaining outlet on sump is now used as a return inlet back to the tank.
Pic 10 - Rear view assembled in car
More pics available as needed...
