68 Signet electronic ignition trouble - HELP..

[tenfive0]

I bought a 1968 Signet with a swapped in 318 this past fall that has not been road worthy since 2012. It went through 2 previous owners. The first owner put a ridiculous cam in the 318 without degreeing it correctly. The 2nd owner I bought the car from could not figure out the first owners mistake. He bought a new timing set lined it up dot to dot and did not degree the cam. Same problem. He removed the points ignition thinking that could be the issue and he switches to electronic ignition.

I pulled the timing cover and degreed the cam correctly and got the car running. The next problem to fix is the engine cranks with the key in the start position but there is no SPARK and it will not fire. Release the key to run position while the engine is spinning, and it starts if you catch the momentum exactly right. I suspect wires were crossed or something was perhaps wired incorrectly when the previous owner switched the car to electronic ignition. I have replaced all the electronic ignition components with good working parts and the starting problem still exists. I am not an electrical wiring genius. I have found while working on the car not to trust anything the two previous owners done to the car while they were trying to sort things out. It seems anything the two of them touched turned to shi_. Both should have had their toolboxes revoked.

I am not interested changing the entire ignition system to something else. I am do not what to reinvent the wheel. I am doing this on the on a budget. I am determined and committed to making it work with what I have.

Do you need to replace the original voltage regulator with an electronic regulator when switching from point to electronic ignition?

/\ Attached picture the way the ignition is currently wired /\
0. 4 pin ECU
1. Two (2) Gray wires from ECU to Distributor
2. Blue White wire from original harness to left side of resistor
3. Light Blue wire (that might go to the voltage regulator) from original harness to left side of resistor
4. White Blue from ECU to left side of resistor
5. Dark Blue original wire from right side of resistor to (I think) + on coil
6. Brown original wire to right side of resistor
7. Black Yellow ire from ECU to - on coil
8 Green Purple wire from ECU not used or connected.

 

[67Dart273]

This is likely a simple problem. Go to MyMopar and download a factory service manual, if you don't have one, and also get one of their aftermarket wiring diagrams, which are often easier to follow BUT LEAVE OUT some details.

Here's the deal:

The IGN1 "run" voltage (dark blue) comes from the key, through the bulkhead connector, into the engine bay AND IS THE ONLY switched source of power to "run" anything under the hood

BUT THIS GOES DEAD during cranking, by design

A second set of contacts on the switch provides "IGN2" which is usually brown. This power is hot ONLY during start and it's job is to provide "hot" battery power to the ignition during cranking

It might not be connected (or properly) or it might not be working The brown is just one wire, it comes from the switch, through the bulkhead, and connects to the coil+ side of the ballast If it is connected, and you are not getting power to the coil+ during cranking, l check the bulkhead connector and the ignition switch and connections to them..

Don't confuse the brown IGN2 with the yellow 'start' wire. They are both hot at the same time, but are SEPARATE switch contacts. Interconnecting the two can cause a backfeed situation.

 

[pishta]

does your Alternator have dual field? (squareback, or very few roundies) electronic voltage regulator was key in maintaining precise voltage to the ECU. Without a dual field, you can stick to old points VR but EVR is better as well as the dual field alternators. check this out: if the car has no spark in start but has it in run, it may be a miswired ballast resistor as the ignition switch is supposed to bypass the ballast resistor on START (runs to same terminal side as coil) and then in RUN coil voltage should be routed through the ballast resistor. It could be just a bad ballast resistor. check it with a multimeter. jump the ballast resistor with a spade connector and see if it starts and runs, thats a crutch for a bad ballast. but a bad BR would not run at all, open at the coil voltage feed in RUN, but would not be in series in START.

 

[Dana67Dart]

Go to classiccarwiring.com and buy a 11×17 wiring diagram for your car. Then Google Mopar electronic ignition and look at images, tons there to show you the correct wiring.

 

[tenfive0]

The way the ignition is shown in the picture I've attached with my original post is the way I took possession of the vehicle.

This is likely a simple problem. Go to MyMopar and download a factory service manual, if you don't have one, and also get one of their aftermarket wiring diagrams, which are often easier to follow BUT LEAVE OUT some details.

Here's the deal:

The IGN1 "run" voltage (dark blue) comes from the key, through the bulkhead connector, into the engine bay AND IS THE ONLY switched source of power to "run" anything under the hood

BUT THIS GOES DEAD during cranking, by design

A second set of contacts on the switch provides "IGN2" which is usually brown. This power is hot ONLY during start and it's job is to provide "hot" battery power to the ignition during cranking

It might not be connected (or properly) or it might not be working The brown is just one wire, it comes from the switch, through the bulkhead, and connects to the coil+ side of the ballast If it is connected, and you are not getting power to the coil+ during cranking, l check the bulkhead connector and the ignition switch and connections to them..

Don't confuse the brown IGN2 with the yellow 'start' wire. They are both hot at the same time, but are SEPARATE switch contacts. Interconnecting the two can cause a backfeed situation.

There is a dark blue wire and brown wire (bonded) connected together on the right side of the resister. I'll check all the connection from the resister to the bulkhead and ignition switch. I do not SEE a + or - on the resister. There is only one dark blue wire attached to the + side of the coil.

does your Alternator have dual field? (squareback, or very few roundies) electronic voltage regulator was key in maintaining precise voltage to the ECU. Without a dual field, you can stick to old points VR but EVR is better as well as the dual field alternators. check this out: if the car has no spark in start but has it in run, it may be a miswired ballast resistor as the ignition switch is supposed to bypass the ballast resistor on START (runs to same terminal side as coil) and then in RUN coil voltage should be routed through the ballast resistor. It could be just a bad ballast resistor. check it with a multimeter. jump the ballast resistor with a spade connector and see if it starts and runs, thats a crutch for a bad ballast. but a bad BR would not run at all, open at the coil voltage feed in RUN, but would not be in series in START.
View attachment 1715522434

I shot gunned the entire electronic ignition system with good used and new parts. I tried 2 other resister before I bought a new one. With the two good used resisters and the new one the car exhibiting the same start flaw with no change.

I have no idea if the alternator is "dual field"? See attached picture.

I switched the wiring on the resister this afternoon. I took the dark blue and bonded brown wires from the original harness off the right side of the resister and put them on the left side. And, I took blue white wire and the light blue wire from the original harness bonded together with the with blue wire from the ECU off the left side of the resister and put them on the right side. Nothing, no change. The car only cranked with the switch in the start position.

I did notice with the wires switched to either position the resistor was getting hot. I assume it is supposed to get hot.

Go to classiccarwiring.com and buy a 11×17 wiring diagram for your car. Then Google Mopar electronic ignition and look at images, tons there to show you the correct wiring.

I'm going to have to do some further digging and a wiring diagram will be in order.

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

This is likely a simple problem. Go to MyMopar and download a factory service manual, if you don't have one, and also get one of their aftermarket wiring diagrams, which are often easier to follow BUT LEAVE OUT some details.

Here's the deal:

The IGN1 "run" voltage (dark blue) comes from the key, through the bulkhead connector, into the engine bay AND IS THE ONLY switched source of power to "run" anything under the hood

BUT THIS GOES DEAD during cranking, by design

A second set of contacts on the switch provides "IGN2" which is usually brown. This power is hot ONLY during start and it's job is to provide "hot" battery power to the ignition during cranking

It might not be connected (or properly) or it might not be working The brown is just one wire, it comes from the switch, through the bulkhead, and connects to the coil+ side of the ballast If it is connected, and you are not getting power to the coil+ during cranking, l check the bulkhead connector and the ignition switch and connections to them..

Don't confuse the brown IGN2 with the yellow 'start' wire. They are both hot at the same time, but are SEPARATE switch contacts. Interconnecting the two can cause a backfeed situation.

Good info.

 

[pishta]

You just want to trace the start wire from ignition switch 12v + to the same side of ballast resistor that the coil is on, so it bypasses resistor on start: full 12v to coil +. Its not polarized. When i said it was backwards, I meant the run and start were mixed up on coil side of resistor, but disregard that. In RUN position, youll have coil + volts going through ballast resistor, and it will get hot as its reducing the voltage to coil to (old design) preserve to point life. Electronics usually have a dual resistor ballast, with slightly more complicated wiring but thats not usually a deal breaker. See if start provides 12v to coil +, that's where id start probing back to ignition switch. Sometimes its easier to rip out and start from scratch.

 

[tenfive0]

I haven't given up. I recently within the past 10 day have been make steady progress getting the car close to being road worthy. I've been putting miles on it figuring out all the new car idiosyncrasies. While driving the car I notice it isn't charging. I replaced the alternator and regulator. One disaster at a time. Had the car out last night for the first time and no dash lights. Next, I hate wiring issues.

Bought the car that two previous owners could not figure out how to get running. The first previous owner might have rebuilt the engine. Who knows when? He puts some kind who knows what Big Daddy / Mother Thumper cam in the little 318 without degreeing it properly. Puts it back together with the stock two (2) barrel intake and Holley carburetor. WTF? A recipe for failure. He gives up after throwing piles of money at the car.

The 2nd previous owner gets the car he throws a pile of money at the project. He might have been a little bit more knowledgeable heading in the right direction but he was not penny wise. He replaced the timing chain and sprockets twice thinking what I have no idea but he never degreed the cam. The 2nd timing set he bought has three key ways but he still lines up dot to dot. Puts it back together AGAIN with the stock two (2) barrel intake and Holley carburetor. He still couldn't figure out the timing. He replaces the point distributor with electronic. I'm finding everything he touched turned to crap. I think when he switched to electronic ignition there might have been some wires crossed or not hooked up right. In the meantime he puts all new brake lines on the car. New fuel tank and freshly rebuilt 727 with a shift kit. The gas tank leaked because he put the gasket between the lock ring and pick up sending unit.

I bought the car for a lot less then it cost the owner to have the transmission rebuilt. The last registration sticker on the license plate is 2013 and the inspection sticker is 2012. So I'm guessing it hasn't been driven since. I had to give it a piggy back ride home on my ramp truck. The car wouldn't make the drive under it own power the way I bought it. I figured it was worth the cost in parts if I couldn't fix it. Before I even got the car home my neighbor offered me $500 for the rear.

The car was an original slant (6) six with a 904 and 7-1/4 rear. When I bought the car it already had manual front disc brakes with a 318, dual exhaust, 727 Transmission with a shift kit and an 8-3/4 rear with 2.23 gears. I replaced the center section with 3.55 gears I picked up from a friend. Whoever / whenever the rear was put in the car it was never filled with oil. I never thought to check the oil in the rear so the 2.23's left the car. It was a stupid mistake and I should have known better to check everything anyone else did on the car. Just as well the car was a real turd with the 2.23 gears and the cam combo. Things happen for a reason, I guess. It could use more gear then the 3.55's with the ridiculous cam that was put in the engine before I bought the car. I'm going to change the torque converter, add headers and leaving well enough alone. I'm not changing the rear or the cam. I shade tree / hot rod degreed the cam in the engine without a degree wheel. The cam was in the engine 4 degrees retarded. I replaced the two barrel intake and carburetor with a Holley Street Dominator and an Edelbrock 600. The car still had the slant 6 radiator. Replaced it with a 1969 Road Runner radiator. The electronic distributor was screwed, replaced it with known good one. New ECM and coil. Still I'm into it dirt cheap with friends and parts that were laying around put back in service to live another day.

 

[67Dart273]

I wish you had posted before replacing the alternator We might have "gained" you a bit there. I have no idea from the photos how this is wired. Of course swapping the resistor connections made no difference........current can go either direction through a resistor, just as it does a lamp or a bathroom heater. They are both resistors.

Don't you have a multimeter? You need to take some measurements

 

[Mattax]

Do you need to replace the original voltage regulator with an electronic regulator when switching from point to electronic ignition?

Recommended but not neccessary.

I do not SEE a + or - on the resister. There is only one dark blue wire attached to the + side of the coil.

Resistors are non-directional. Make connections that create the least wire strain, but with good support.
A good way to add on an additonal wire to a terminal is a piggyback.

I tried 2 other resister before I bought a new one. With the two good used resisters and the new one the car exhibiting the same start flaw with no change.
1/2 ohm resistor for coil is the one used with almost all standard Chrsyler electronic ignitions.
Resistors for points ignitions were similar, but sometimes vary. Certainly close enough to get it running.

I have no idea if the alternator is "dual field"? See attached picture.

There really is no dual field. It's just a common way of referring to alternators that have both brush terminals insulated.
If you see two field terminals for electrical connections on the back of the alternator, then that alternator can be used with the Chrysler electronic voltage regulator. Or simply ground one terminal and use it with a positive controlling regulator.

I switched the wiring on the resister this afternoon. I took the dark blue and bonded brown wires from the original harness off the right side of the resister and put them on the left side. And, I took blue white wire and the light blue wire from the original harness bonded together with the with blue wire from the ECU off the left side of the resister and put them on the right side. Nothing, no change. The car only cranked with the switch in the start position.

A replacement ECU should get its power from the ignition Run circuit. Reread post #2 for explaination of Run vs Starting ignition wires.

Schematic of the '68 Circuits you're focusing on.

The wires have identifiers such as J = ignition, A = Battery, R = Alternator, wire gage and color code.

While driving the car I notice it isn't charging. I replaced the alternator and regulator. One disaster at a time. Had the car out last night for the first time and no dash lights. Next, I hate wiring issues.

Dash lights are controlled through the headlight switch. Rotate the switch and see what happens.
(note the above schematic does not show the complete headlight switch. Parking and dash lights portion gets power from the fuse box.)

As far as the alternator.
1. Start with a fully charged battery - done on a charger if it is low.
2. Notice the ammeter's position in the circuit. It indicates how much the battery is discharging or charging. If its charging after start up, the alternator is working. If its discharging while driving, then the car is running on battery and somehting is wrong. Normal charged position is middle once the battery is recharged. If the needle swings to either extreme, something is wrong big time.
3. The original charging system controls power to the alternator's rotor. The second brush is grounded to the alternator's case.
4. On a two field terminal alternator, the regulator controled the ground connection. So there is a second wire that goes back to the regualator.

Ground controlling regulator connector

 

[tenfive0]

I have a multimeter but its just taking up space in my tool box because I don't know how to use all its functions. The problem is it's a multimeter. If it did one function only I could probably figure it out.

I'm pretty good or fair to midland mechanically wise. When it comes to wiring I'm a total buffoon. I have a test light and found there is low power to the coil with the key in the run position while the engine running because the test light is dim so I'm guessing the resistor is doing its job. I can follow directions, schematics and drawing pretty well. If I had done the electronic distributor switch and wiring and there was a mistake I might have been able to track down what I might have done wrong. But, trying to make sense of someone else's birds nest wiring mistakes is confusing to me. I'll rack my brain until it hurts. It's probably a simple fix but I can't see the forest because the trees are in the way. I have a friend who has a multimeter and he knows how to use it. He is better at wiring and he has offered to help when he gets the chance. Between us, we are two halves of one whole idiot. Before the starting issue is fixed there is still plenty of other issues with the car I can resolve on my own without the assistance of an electrical wiring coach. I'll show him this thread and I'm confident he'll figure it out and we'll get it resolved.

Since I've gotten the charging issue resolved the starting problem isn't as bad. I bought a wiring diagram manual also to help with the confusion.

 

[RedFish]

Check if the brown wire is hot with key in start position. there could be aproblem with ignition switch. we've also seen the wrong brown wire used. The wire for electric washer pump is in same general area and brown.

 

[tenfive0]

My first thought was ignition switch. The problem tracking down the issue is I have no one to help (turn the key) crank the engine while I test for 12 volts at the coil.

 

[67Dart273]

I have a multimeter but its just taking up space in my tool box

You need to learn how to use it. Post a photo or at least the model number we can look it up. There are some caveats about meters but many of the "better" ones are pretty well protected. There is no excuse for not learning this in this age. The internet has all the information

When I was 'a kid' and just getting interested, you did NOT just buy a multimeter at any corner store like today. And obviously there was no www to look things up. My first meter was an antique when I bought it, likely made in the early '30's I bought it used at a junkque store in about 1963 or so. It was so old it didn't even have a selector switch. You selected the range/ function by plugging the test leads into "pin plugs"

This is not it but very similar

Back then nobody called them a "multimeter" they were called a "vom" which stood for volt--ohm-milliameter. They did not have an amps scale, most of the early ones, they only measured fractions of 1 amp

 

[Mattax]

I have no idea why you want to check for 12 Volt at the coil.
But you don't need a second person to turn the key.
All you need some aligator clips instead of or in addition to the probes.

 

[512Stroker]

I bought a 1968 Signet with a swapped in 318 this past fall that has not been road worthy since 2012. It went through 2 previous owners. The first owner put a ridiculous cam in the 318 without degreeing it correctly. The 2nd owner I bought the car from could not figure out the first owners mistake. He bought a new timing set lined it up dot to dot and did not degree the cam. Same problem. He removed the points ignition thinking that could be the issue and he switches to electronic ignition.

I pulled the timing cover and degreed the cam correctly and got the car running. The next problem to fix is the engine cranks with the key in the start position but there is no SPARK and it will not fire. Release the key to run position while the engine is spinning, and it starts if you catch the momentum exactly right. I suspect wires were crossed or something was perhaps wired incorrectly when the previous owner switched the car to electronic ignition. I have replaced all the electronic ignition components with good working parts and the starting problem still exists. I am not an electrical wiring genius. I have found while working on the car not to trust anything the two previous owners done to the car while they were trying to sort things out. It seems anything the two of them touched turned to shi_. Both should have had their toolboxes revoked.

I am not interested changing the entire ignition system to something else. I am do not what to reinvent the wheel. I am doing this on the on a budget. I am determined and committed to making it work with what I have.

View attachment 1715522400 Do you need to replace the original voltage regulator with an electronic regulator when switching from point to electronic ignition?

/\ Attached picture the way the ignition is currently wired /\
0. 4 pin ECU
1. Two (2) Gray wires from ECU to Distributor
2. Blue White wire from original harness to left side of resistor
3. Light Blue wire (that might go to the voltage regulator) from original harness to left side of resistor
4. White Blue from ECU to left side of resistor
5. Dark Blue original wire from right side of resistor to (I think) + on coil
6. Brown original wire to right side of resistor
7. Black Yellow ire from ECU to - on coil
8 Green Purple wire from ECU not used or connected.

I like to start with the simple things first.
Sounds like it may be a bad key switch. Have you tried a different switch?

 

[tenfive0]

It thought there was suppose to be 12 volts to the coil while cranking with the key in the start position? With the engine running 9 volts to the coil.

Put dual exhaust over the rear axle this the weekend. What a pain in the AS_!

 

[67Dart273]

It thought there was suppose to be 12 volts to the coil while cranking with the key in the start position? With the engine running 9 volts to the coil.

Put dual exhaust over the rear axle this the weekend. What a pain in the AS_!

The coil + during crank should be "same as battery." The battery will be sucked down by the starter so THAT voltage depends on the type of starter/ starter draw, how heavy the battery is, and it's state of charge. The "accepted" minimum for cranking is "about" 10V, anything higher is better. So crank the engine, read the battery while cranking. "Let's say" it's 11.7V. That same reading should be at coil+ when cranking. This test proves the IGN2 /brown/ resistor bypass circuit is working correctly

And now, a trick

Many guys do not realize HOW IS THE BOX/ ECU powered during cranking? The IGN1 GOES DEAD during cranking, the only supply voltage is the IGN2 brown circuit. BUT THAT FEEDS THE COIL How does the ECU get powered? Weirdly, it gets powered THROUGH THE BALLAST RESISTOR, that is the path is ignition switch-------grown bypass--------to coil+ side of ballast---------through the ballast-------to the ECU

So the ECU is actually getting reduced voltage during cranking.

 

[tenfive0]

I shot gunned the entire charging system with all new components. Shortly after I corrected the cam timing (and at least got the car running) I tracked down the car wasn't charging. The alternator was bad but while I was at it I replaced the voltage regulator. Like I said one disaster at a time. With a corrected charging system and fully charged battery the starting issue is MUCH BETTER but still not right.

I spent the past weekend fixing the hacked exhaust system. I know I should be fixing the starting issue first but it always starts with some coaxing. Its the anti-theft system. Was at a picnic yesterday with the old lady. I told my brother in-law (who owns a 2000 + something Honda Civic) he could take his wife for a ride in the Valiant if he could get it started. I tried to explained to him how to start it. He couldn't follow along when I told him its not a fuel infected get in and turn the key to start vehicle. There is some thinking and skill involved. My sister in-law quested why? I told her you don't matter you sister likes the car.

I've been driving the car working out all the flaws the other owners created or couldn't figure out. Everything they did was half assed and funked up. The exhaust that was put on the car stopped in front of the rear axle. It had to be FIXED. I couldn't drive the car with the windows open without getting asphyxiated or nearly choking to death. I'm sure the other two owners never or couldn't drive the car far enough the way they had things screwed up to figure out anything or that it wasn't charging or exhaust system was hacked.

 

[tenfive0]

It's been awhile since I've posted any progress on my Valiant. I don't want to leave this a dead end with no resolution. I've been driving the car but it still has the same starting issue. It always starts but with difficulties. The issue has presented itself worse with hotter weather conditions. The combination changed with the right amount of fuel. Maybe some choke. Not to much fuel to flood the car but enough to start. I've noticed if I fiddle or giggle the key in the ignition the car sometimes starts and key switch acts correctly. My first initial thoughts were the key switch was faulty. Going to go ahead and replace the switch to see if it cures the problem. Further posts to follow.

 

[pishta]

MY first 65 A had a bad ignition switch from the PO, he just wired a huge momentary starter push button under the column and you just turn the key to run and push the starter button (whats old is new again!) . I never fixed it. Next to that button was the electric fuel pump switch so it looked like I was hot wiring it whenever I started it, fiddling under the dash like that. Made a good theft deterent. If the guy got it started (easy enough with a jumper 12V to coil+) he'd run it out of gas in about 20 seconds. Poor starting, Id look at your carb's choke. But one hurdle at a time, right? Wiring has been made simple for me as I work for the phone company. if you really want to iron out the wiring issues, get yourself a probe and toner kit. Its an audible toner that you attach to a wire and then you use the inductive probe to detect the wire the tone is on. You can trace the wire though the harness and even find opens (when the tone stops along its path) as well as bad bulkhead connectors and bullet splices. 12V test light would do the same but you'd have to provide a dedicated 12V source to the wire your looking for and it could be a ground wire (disconnect battery ground) . Here's a new one but used are cheap, to get the idea what it looks like.

 

[67Dart273]

It's been awhile since I've posted any progress on my Valiant. I don't want to leave this a dead end with no resolution. I've been driving the car but it still has the same starting issue. It always starts but with difficulties. The issue has presented itself worse with hotter weather conditions. The combination changed with the right amount of fuel. Maybe some choke. Not to much fuel to flood the car but enough to start. I've noticed if I fiddle or giggle the key in the ignition the car sometimes starts and key switch acts correctly. My first initial thoughts were the key switch was faulty. Going to go ahead and replace the switch to see if it cures the problem. Further posts to follow.

You don't need to replace the switch. Learn to troubleshoot. Clip a meter to coil plus and ground. Pull the coil wire and ground it. Better yet connect the coil wire to a test gap If possible use a solid core coil wire for this test. Crank the engine using the key and read the meter. You should have a SOLID "at least" 10.5V or higher the more the better. The coil should generate nice hot blue snappy sparks at least 3/8" long or more typically 1/2"

Release the switch. Leave it on a few seconds. The coil voltage should read anywhere from 7-10V. This depends on the coil ballast and the coil type. Now move the meter to the "key" side of the ballast. It should be "same as battery." Check battery voltage to find out. IE if the "high" side reads 12.1 and the battery reads 12.6 you have a 1/2 volt drop and that is too much. It is often NOT the key

The functional path is battery........starter relay stud..........fuse link.........through the bulkhead connector........to and through the ammeter........to the black ammeter wire "welded splice"..........branch off to the ignition switch connector.........through the switch........out the switch on the IGN1 "run" wire..........back out through the bulkhead connector.

EACH AND EVERY one of those points is a place for voltage drop and they can be in combination.

 

[tenfive0]

Follow up / up date - Did some tracing with a test light a few weekends ago. I have the ignition issue resolved. I took the key switch out of the dash and disconnected the wires and cleaned up the connections. I put the wires back to the switch with dielectric grease giggled some wires through the firewall bulkhead and I now have power to the coil while cranking. At least now I have power to the coil while cranking but I'm still having trouble starting. I'm confident I'm having a fuel delivery issue. I ordered a new fuel pump from Awful Zone and I'll install it this weekend. A few issues have added up to a bigger problem. After the fuel pump I'll be chasing why the dash lights aren't working.

 

[tenfive0]

Changed the fuel pump and it is better. Definitely not a jump in, turn key fuel infected car. The combination intake, carburetor and cam I'm suspecting are adding to still keeping or adding to the car being finicky, a little tricky to start and cold harted. From the beginning of the process of buying the Valiant its been steady progress. I'll learn to live with what I have. A lot of little issues made for a bigger problem.

 

[Mattax]

Non-factory chokes rarely work great, especially with a hot cam.
Once the hot idle is tuned you can fiddle with the choke and should be able to make it half decent if not good. But sometimes you can't.
There's a few posts you can search which cover the three main choke settings:
initial, qualified (position it moves to under manifold vacuum), and fast idle speed.
Most chokes also have an 'unloader' to assist clearing of minor flooding.