'69 Barracuda T56 swap, floor, cross member

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340sFastback said:
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How far back is needed for that shifter/hump?
Is it possible to measure from the floor/firewall seam, or maybe I missed that in this thread.

I have a bench seat 4 speed, I know the bench will not work, but it would be nice to know.
No plans to remove the bench, it's actually extremely comfortable, and the kid wants it to remain too.
 
matthon said:
How far back is needed for that shifter/hump?
Is it possible to measure from the floor/firewall seam, or maybe I missed that in this thread.

I have a bench seat 4 speed, I know the bench will not work, but it would be nice to know.
No plans to remove the bench, it's actually extremely comfortable, and the kid wants it to remain too.
Click to expand...
Tunnel is tall all the way back where that side to side hump is in the floor. A TKX is a lot smaller. Yeah may be able to modify bench seat frame to clear the bigger tunnel.

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Removed rear panels for carpet replacement. I put some generic non matching green carpet back there in the '80s when I gutted interior to find and fix all the various water leaks.

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Bought a new M&H rear light harness from Year One. Its an identical exact match to the 55 year old original harness. Old harness had cracked wire insulation on reverse lights and gas guage. It was just very old and very tired...

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Heater hoses hooked up. Pressure tested coolant system and it holds pressure. Installed defrost plenum, defrost tubes, and glove box liner and door.

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Was able to wedge carpet between floor heat duct and raised trans tunnel. Had to pull padding off back side of carpet in that area. It was tight took a while to wedge it into place. Normally there is 1.5 inches or more of clearance between floor heat ducts and original trans tunnel. Only the factory AC cars have those steel heat ducts close to trans tunnel.

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Wrestled tugged pulled yanked pushed carpet around for hours trying to get a good fit. Which isn't easy on front half with the larger trans tunnel. Holes for seat belts, bolts/washers/nuts where seats will bolt down, rocker trim kick panels, high beam grommet etc. Still some lumps ect but fit is best I could get it. Once console and seats are in should look a lot better.

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Glued the carpet to console. Used 3M two part adhesive I always have a tube of it around. Its thick like caulk, sets up in 10 minutes, and is crazy strong. Down side is carpet will never come off. But it worked really good was real easy could move carpet around for several minutes then it quickly setup.

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Glue rock hard like fast so gave it an extra 30 minutes set console in car. Its sitting on those console brackets really good. The big trans tunnel is disguised. No one is gonna know a 6 spd is under there now ..

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Rear interior now complete. Side panels new reproductions from Legendary. Rear seat cover and metal rear green panels unrestored original.

Three seat belts back there lots of passengers can ride along watch me shift some gears.

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Your car came out beautiful and your work, attention to detail, to stick the 6 speed in really shows in the final product. Very, very nice.
 
Back at gas station again.

I had to add a cooler for PS system. Was losing assist when system heat soaked. After adding cooler i see 134 degrees out of box and 116 degrees into pump. Cooler sees 100 degrees in and 95 degrees out. 40 minute drive curvy country roads steering is working really good now. PS lines were 80 degrees before the drive.

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Beautiful car! Sounds healthy too!!
I’ve been following your thread, you did an excellent job on the conversion. I know you will enjoy it for many years!! :thumbsup:
 
Sprayed cavity wax in frame rails, sub frame connectors, and floor cavity under back seat. The wands spray 360 degrees and allow you to get all the way into the voids. Sprays like water seeps into all the cracks then dries hardens to keep moisture off of any bare metal that might be in there from welding in floor frame rails etc.

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