6AL No Spark

[Dragnut]

So i have no spark when cranking... i did the ground test and it passed..Triple checked all my wiring... all new 6AL ignition box and Blaster 2 coil...Msd pro distributor, new, i turn the key and get the 5 leds on the box...then when cranking i get no leds...any ideas? Im at a loss here...

 

[67Dart273]

"I bet' it's the old "you didn't jumper the ballast terminals."

Use a meter or a light and see if you have power BOTH to the "big red" and to the "small red" WHEN CRANKING using the key to activate the starter

You MUST jumper the ballast together so that the brown wire is included

HOW THIS WORKS

During "run" that ignition "run" voltage (called IGN1) is supplied by only one switched wire into the engine bay, usually dark blue. This wire branches off and depending on year/ model, supplies ignition, voltage regualtor power, alternator field, and smog doo-dads if used and electric choke if used

THAT VOLTAGE GOES DEAD DURING STARTING

Ignition "full battery power" is supplied during cranking by a separate contact on the igntiion switch, called IGN2 feeds out, usually brown, into the engine bay and connects to the coil+ side of the ballast. This must be incorporated/ jumpered to IGN1 for any ignition not using a ballast resistor

 

[Dragnut]

"I bet' it's the old "you didn't jumper the ballast terminals."

Use a meter or a light and see if you have power BOTH to the "big red" and to the "small red" WHEN CRANKING using the key to activate the starter

You MUST jumper the ballast together so that the brown wire is included

HOW THIS WORKS

During "run" that ignition "run" voltage (called IGN1) is supplied by only one switched wire into the engine bay, usually dark blue. This wire branches off and depending on year/ model, supplies ignition, voltage regualtor power, alternator field, and smog doo-dads if used and electric choke if used

THAT VOLTAGE GOES DEAD DURING STARTING

Ignition "full battery power" is supplied during cranking by a separate contact on the igntiion switch, called IGN2 feeds out, usually brown, into the engine bay and connects to the coil+ side of the ballast. This must be incorporated/ jumpered to IGN1 for any ignition not using a ballast resistor

Sorry... i should have mentioned that im running a completely new wite harness from Ron Francis.. no ballast resistor...

 

[Dragnut]

"I bet' it's the old "you didn't jumper the ballast terminals."

Use a meter or a light and see if you have power BOTH to the "big red" and to the "small red" WHEN CRANKING using the key to activate the starter

You MUST jumper the ballast together so that the brown wire is included

HOW THIS WORKS

During "run" that ignition "run" voltage (called IGN1) is supplied by only one switched wire into the engine bay, usually dark blue. This wire branches off and depending on year/ model, supplies ignition, voltage regualtor power, alternator field, and smog doo-dads if used and electric choke if used

THAT VOLTAGE GOES DEAD DURING STARTING

Ignition "full battery power" is supplied during cranking by a separate contact on the igntiion switch, called IGN2 feeds out, usually brown, into the engine bay and connects to the coil+ side of the ballast. This must be incorporated/ jumpered to IGN1 for any ignition not using a ballast resistor

I dont have any wires hooked to IGN2 on my switch

 

[mderoy340]

Sorry... i should have mentioned that im running a completely new wite harness from Ron Francis.. no ballast resistor...

Does not matter what harness; you still need IGN1&2 together because the ignition switch in start provides supply voltage while cranking. Run position takes over after engine starts.

 

[Dragnut]

Does not matter what harness; you still need IGN1&2 together because the ignition switch in start provides supply voltage while cranking. Run position takes over after engine starts.

Got ya... that sounds like the problem...so just run a jumper on the back if the switch?

 

[67Dart273]

Yes.

 

[Dragnut]

Yes.

Thanks..