70 duster: updating, and a no-dough pro-touring makeover

-
Based on his posts on Pro-Touring.com he is building a Grassroots Challenge car, so I doubt he has done anything with the Duster except moving it out of the way.
 
Based on his posts on Pro-Touring.com he is building a Grassroots Challenge car, so I doubt he has done anything with the Duster except moving it out of the way.
Can't remember if I ever signed up on PT or not. Need to check in on there more often
 
Never got notified of responses.
Yup built an amc spirit for last years challenge, and an building a miata for this year.
The duster has been kicking my *** for the last long time with megasquirt issues. Im honestly about two steps short of canning the whole system and going with a fitech or something.
 
It's funny you bumped this today.
After i grenaded the clutch doing the burnout video, i wound up doing a bunch of work. Including a new bellhousing....

Today, i got it fired up for the first time since thanksgiving and drove it to ghetto gas. Brought it home, and fixed the pinion angle with a handheld circular saw to the lowering blocks. Seems to have fixed the oddness i felt from the rear when taking off, but dont know if I've fixed the driveline vibration yet.

Additionally, im still fighting the megasquirt. Intermittent noise causing tach loss. But getting closer, and cleaning battery terminals and grounds may have solved it fully.
Tomorrow night after work my wife and i will check timing again since i had to pull the distributor while doing the clutch (won't miss the lakewood) and im going to run it a few miles with all the load on the electrical system. See if the noise comes back. If its good, and the weather holds, im going to take it on a poker run Saturday .
Then, if history is any indication i will ignore the car again, and get sucked into a full restoration of an acr neon.
 
It's funny you bumped this today.

I am working on upgrading the front suspension on my Duster and ran into problems so I was looking back to see what you did in regards to UCA's. Saw that I had missed that you posted a burnout video but that it had been several months since an update. Had to ask. :D

Then, if history is any indication i will ignore the car again, and get sucked into a full restoration of an acr neon.

:rofl:

Or building a 2019-22 challenge car. :thumbsup:
 
I am working on upgrading the front suspension on my Duster and ran into problems so I was looking back to see what you did in regards to UCA's. Saw that I had missed that you posted a burnout video but that it had been several months since an update. Had to ask. :D



:rofl:

Or building a 2019-22 challenge car. :thumbsup:
The acr IS the next challenge car. Planning to wing the concourse .
Full rotisserie resto neon. On a challenge budget. ..
 
One of the updates I am doing to the car is finally bolting on the C5 calipers and Cobra rotors. Do you still have those adapters or did they get recycled?
 
One of the updates I am doing to the car is finally bolting on the C5 calipers and Cobra rotors. Do you still have those adapters or did they get recycled?
Still have them! But still haven't run out of brakes, so never did anything else with them....
 
Doubt that I will need them, but gone far enough on the project I figure I should use them.

P7030637.JPG
 
So, im debating bringing the steelies and dog dishes back with a $120 set of used tires.

Why?
Because apparently I'm a wheel *****....

DusterProfile.jpg
 
Readjusting the timing fixed a lot of drivability issues.

Tach signal rock steady.

Pinion angle change cured vibrations.

The duster is BACK!

Put about 10 miles on it last night. Runs better than it did with a pro tuned carb already, and i know theres a LOT of tuning left to do.
 
So, im debating bringing the steelies and dog dishes back with a $120 set of used tires.

Why?
Because apparently I'm a wheel *****....

View attachment 1715286233

I actually prefer the look of steel wheels, but the lack of decent tires for 14", 15" and even 16" is miserable.

And by a "decent" tire, I mean a modern tire with the advantages of treat design and compounds. Not saying there aren't options, but it's getting to be similar to running a model "A"; you can find something that will make it roll, but don't expect it to be a "performance" option. The exception might be drag radials, not sure.

I have finally seen some aftermarket options that mimic a steel wheel in aluminum, but as I recall, offsets aren't right yet.

There is a blue '66 Belvedere with something similar, but I think the wheels were like $2K to get built. Love the look (wheels might be a little bigger than I would want), but hate the cost.

01-1966-Plymouth-Belvedere-David-Meyer.jpg


Seems like I have seen a couple of builds here recently with 17" or 18" steel wheel mimics.
 
Check out Coys C33 they are an 18 I believe and can do most back spacing. I think they $250-300 a wheel... and will accept dog caps.

Yes 18 and have a look
https://www.coyswheel.com/coys-c-33

My first question would be if you can get more backspacing. What's shown doesn't include a wheel that would work on the front of a Duster. Needs to be more like 5.5" for an 8" wide wheel.

Here is a thread where a guy has one on the back of his Duster. 17" Steelies US Wheel
 
Part of the hope of the 15s is to soften the ride some via softer sidewalls. For the power tour.

And, because i can .
 
Unfortunately, I will be locked out of 15" wheels once I get the 13" brakes on the car. :(
 
I feel like a giddy kid. Saw you sold your EFI setup and said you were going a different direction. Updates???

:lol:
 
Last budget: 10,974.34 ish

Money spent and made:



around a grand on tuners and shops

500ish on msd distributor, box, wires

sold megasquirt for 1500

500 for carb, fuel log, fittings, etc

220 for used TR5 manifold

36 fuel pressure regulator

100 gaskets/coolant/hose/heat sheild

50 seats

140 new stereo (not arrived yet)

closeout box: $1





New total: 12,021.34ish



so, the last few years have not been kind to this car. I have done everything in my power to tame, as well as thrown money at the megasquirt. I've paid tuners and shops. Changed to fuel only. Rewired things. Changed components. Ran oscilloscopes. Everything. And three weeks ago, on another test drive to tune and see what funky new thing it was doing, it quit. I could not get it restarted, and had to br brought home on a rollback. It fired right up when I got it back in the driveway.



Done. I quit. I admitted defeat, and decided fighting the megasquirt was fighting a losing battle. I have fought it so long, there is no way I could ever get the faith to actually drive the car for any distance. I just could not ever see myself trusting it. So I sold it.



A gentleman on moparts, who is a long time megasquirt user and fan, and has successfully been running a TBI megasquirt smallblock. He wants my setup to go multiport. God bless him.



So, I ripped this off

49664056967_1c402d0426_b.jpg
20200315_172318 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

49663233658_45be88e6c5_b.jpg
20200315_172235 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

49724836858_3aa2d693a4_b.jpg
20200327_150206 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

49725392451_605092151c_b.jpg
20200328_145740 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr



honestly, it felt RIGHT pulling this setup off. Like hitting a mental reset button.



To replace it, I scored a well used edelbrock TR5 off ebay. Was 220 shipped. Seller blasted and painted it prior to shipment, as well as helicoiled every hole.

49724836183_7974c41109_b.jpg
20200327_102843 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr



to go with it, I picked up a 650 holley brawler with electric choke and mechanical secondaries. A nice fuel log, a holley heat shield, new gaskets for the valve covers and intake, and an afco fan switch. Shot a coat of clear on the intake and heat shield to keep them looking nice.

49725390666_bdc343f1b9_b.jpg
20200328_130526 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr



I also had to drill and tap the fan switch hole. I hate drilling stuff, but I had to this time.



Got it all mounted up, and worked on plumbing.

49725706417_036c358740_b.jpg
20200328_081025 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr



since the car was set for EFI, I had to step the fuel pressure way down. To do so, I decided to use a bypass regulator. Bought one from ebay. Out of the box, it didn't drop pressure far enough. Only down to 20psi. To get the necessary reduction, I took the regulator apart and increased the orifice size on the return port to 3/16. the regulator was mounted to the heat shield at the back of the carb, EFI pressure rated hose was used throughout.

49725808597_5831e88c51_b.jpg
20200401_172146 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr



went ahead and used a coil bracket from an early small block chevy, wired in the choke and fans, and generally tidied everything up. I also re-polished the valve covers.



49725738752_04e361aa67_b.jpg
20200330_101653 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr



turned out nice!

49725785447_8d49b38973_b.jpg
20200401_081745 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

49725787412_1f6681ff97_b.jpg
20200401_081750 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

49725462986_ca01636c69_b.jpg
20200401_081806 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

in the trunk, I finally addressed the fuel pump hole I cut oh so long ago. Before doing so, I finally installed a fuel filter. Sure, theres a sock filter on the pump, but it seemed like a good idea.

49725738067_33a88e3a32_b.jpg
20200330_093306 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr



to cover the hole, I found a brownie tray at the dollar tree in the right size. Cut a notch for the hoses, added some double sided tape, and done!

49724881968_274973bce3_b.jpg
20200330_110008 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

49724884868_5952c3ddfd_b.jpg
20200330_110302 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr



onto the interior!



The Lincoln seats died. Fore/aft motors ceased functioning. And they never fit all that well. And they went 75lbs each. So, I tossed them, in their place, I picked up a set of neon seats from an 04 sxt. Black, cloth, light, comfortable. The tracks required a bit of surgery to fit properly though. About six inches of movement inward on the outside track, as well as making the front bolts parallel to the floor instead of perpendicular.

49663185143_d8cb4875a5_b.jpg
20200306_100820 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

49663191568_815501854d_b.jpg
20200306_102214 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

49663198833_50181774da_b.jpg
20200306_102954 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

49663190838_319d314bd7_b.jpg
20200306_102947 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr



so, the car is being driven again. This brings us up to today, where I used it to run errands. There's still a bit of carb tweaking to do, and a LOT of cleaning. Idle isnt right yet, and some bogging/hesitation. But, the car is starting better than ever, and the fear is gone. Today, I actually had joy driving it to my doctor appointment. (im not going hardly anywhere, and haven't in weeks. I'm in the category of folks that this will kill due to lung issues) i didn't fear coming home on a wrecker, or worry about it except returning to idle. So very, very nice.



So, short list:

reinstall hood.

Tune carb and ignition.

Fix speedometer and tach calibration

hook up parking brakes.

New lowering blocks and spring clamps in back

set front ride height and align

install passengers seat and console

fix HVAC issues and charge freon

replace dead head unit, upgrade sub amp

detail headlight to taillight.
 
Yes, on the steelies and dog dish hubcaps. I love that looks. Someday I'd like to do a 67-69 Dart with that setup.

Also, is that old Kenwood amp a 744?

Jay
 
Ill have to crawl on there and look. Dont remember what series it is.
But the ez500 is dead, so the hd module and such will be pulled when the new head unit is installed.
Yes, on the steelies and dog dish hubcaps. I love that looks. Someday I'd like to do a 67-69 Dart with that setup.

Also, is that old Kenwood amp a 744?

Jay
 
-
Back
Top