71 dodge demon steering and suspension questions

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71DodgeDemon340

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Hey guys, i am working on my 71 dodge demon and it has a 6cyl with auto trans in it now but im converting it to a 340 4 speed car and i have some questions about any steering or suspension changes i would need to make.
1. Do i need to change the 6cyl drag link to a
V8 drag link?
2. Can i use the 6cyl. power steering gear box with the 340 V8?
3. Will the 6cyl. power steering pump bolt to the 340(have the brackets).
4. Should i leave the 6cyl. torsion bars in it or upgrade them to V8 torsion bars?
5. Will i need to change the rear leaf springs?
6. And what is the best shocks to run?

Thanks for the input and advice.
 
1. same piece no need to change
2. yes
3. yes with the right brackets
4. drag car, use the /6 torsion bars
5. maybe, depends on if they are worn out and style of traction assist you plan to use
6. depends on use.
 
:read2:
1. same piece no need to change
2. yes
3. yes with the right brackets
4. drag car, use the /6 torsion bars
5. maybe, depends on if they are worn out and style of traction assist you plan to use
6. depends on use.

thanks for the reply/
4. its going to be a street car, so i should run the v8 torsion bars?
5. it doesnt seem they are worn out, and im not planning to use any traction assist.
6. andwhat shocks would be best for a street car, Bilstein?
thanks for the feedback.
 
1. no
2. yes
3. should
4. yes for drag racing only, replace with .87 V8 bars for the street, and bigger yet if you like cranking corners
5. yes
6. konis or good high quality gas, Bilstein and Edelbrock seem to be well thought of




Planning on the same thing, about 90% there collecting parts, here's my punch list;

V8 K frame because I found one for a decent price to be reinforced with a coupon kit from Dick Ross (Firm Feel), although I've figured out how to modify any K frame for flat pads to mount bolt on frame brackets allowing you to swap between stock mounts for the different engine families.
73 340
340-360 driver side exhaust manifold
92 magnum passenger side exhaust manifold
2 1/2" exhaust w/cats (my Duster is a '76), X pipe, dynomax mufflers, and side outlets
cast iron case A883 OD
Ebrock Performer intake with rebuilt T-quad carburetor
stock mag pulse distributor w/ GM HEI module, E core coil
26" aluminum radiator
Firm Feel tubular large diameter tie rod ends.
Firm Feel fast ratio steering arms.
Firm Feel stage 2 steering box.
FMJ (M actually) spindles
urethane bushings
Mopar Performance .920 torsion bars
modified B body lower control arms
Firm Feel tubular upper control arms to match lowers
'90 Cad Seville 1 3/16" front stabilizer bar modified to fit
B body 12" cop car rotors
Mustang 4 wheel disc brake master cylinder
B body 8 3/4 running stock timkins, 3.55 sure grip, and Mark VII Lincoln rear discs
'06 17 X 8 Mustang wheels/tires
Mopar XHD 340 replacement rear springs
'79 B body cop car 3/4" rear stabilizer bar modified to fit
home made subframe connectors, core support/engine box braces, and front/rear torque boxes
and at first KYB shocks because I already have them
 
#3. Slant 6 has a different P/S pulley than a V8.

SLANT 6

P7039621.jpg


V8

P7039620.jpg
 
1. no
2. yes
3. should
4. yes for drag racing only, replace with .87 V8 bars for the street, and bigger yet if you like cranking corners
5. yes
6. konis or good high quality gas, Bilstein and Edelbrock seem to be well thought of




Planning on the same thing, about 90% there collecting parts, here's my punch list;

V8 K frame because I found one for a decent price to be reinforced with a coupon kit from Dick Ross (Firm Feel), although I've figured out how to modify any K frame for flat pads to mount bolt on frame brackets allowing you to swap between stock mounts for the different engine families.
73 340
340-360 driver side exhaust manifold
92 magnum passenger side exhaust manifold
2 1/2" exhaust w/cats (my Duster is a '76), X pipe, dynomax mufflers, and side outlets
cast iron case A883 OD
Ebrock Performer intake with rebuilt T-quad carburetor
stock mag pulse distributor w/ GM HEI module, E core coil
26" aluminum radiator
Firm Feel tubular large diameter tie rod ends.
Firm Feel fast ratio steering arms.
Firm Feel stage 2 steering box.
FMJ (M actually) spindles
urethane bushings
Mopar Performance .920 torsion bars
modified B body lower control arms
Firm Feel tubular upper control arms to match lowers
'90 Cad Seville 1 3/16" front stabilizer bar modified to fit
B body 12" cop car rotors
Mustang 4 wheel disc brake master cylinder
B body 8 3/4 running stock timkins, 3.55 sure grip, and Mark VII Lincoln rear discs
'06 17 X 8 Mustang wheels/tires
Mopar XHD 340 replacement rear springs
'79 B body cop car 3/4" rear stabilizer bar modified to fit
home made subframe connectors, core support/engine box braces, and front/rear torque boxes
and at first KYB shocks because I already have them

Wow, that is going to handle nice.
And built out of used parts, nice parts list.
 
Wow, that is going to handle nice.
And built out of used parts, nice parts list.

Thanks for the compliment, but the parts list is a longway from being all used. It's just that if I felt the stock stuff was suitable and could be refurbished, and/or modified for my purpose, replacing dollars with sweat equity, why buy something else? Some stock parts are going to be used because it's going to be a driver and I don't need or want the maintenance headache (manifolds instead of headers for instance). Not wanting to mislead the O P or anyone else for that matter, I felt the stuff from Firm Feel (subframe coupon kit, rebuilt box, upper control arms, tie rod ends, and fast steering arms) was essential to the build and those items alone are pushing upwards of 1K. Some brake parts are being replaced just because I wanted new (about 200 dollars of rotors, calipers, and brake lines from NAPA for instance).

It's all about going down the road burning gas with a smile on your face, right?:-D
 
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