72 318 Scamp. Low oil pressure 1 minute after startup.

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OK, I think I see that hole in earlier pix by the #8 cylinder on the block deck, at the 5 o'clock position; is that it? That is just a casting hole with casting sand & flash in it.. It is not used in actual operation. Not a problem; there are several of these in the deck on each side. No wait that does not look like the right hole LOL. A wider area shot of that hole would help us all, and telling us if it is in the pan rail or the head deck!

The crank could have been a re-man crank/bearing kit that got turned down all at one time. Bearings don't look too bad, nor does the crank.

How about some bore pix? The 1st shot shows them out of focus.... they look pretty shiney, but that is not a good pix to judge from.

And how about a pix of some of the odd rod nuts?
 
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More than likely....... I’d just clean everything real good, buy a re-ring kit........ and put it back together with a new cam & lifters(and possibly valve springs, depending what you have).
 
Pictures for nm9stheham showing block casting holes and the fairly shiney cylinder walls.
This is a 1975 block I found out, Heads have newer oil seals.

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Last picture tonight. Took our freeze plugs. Mud and silicone inside. This isn't washed out. It's just what I could scrape out with finger. Wonder if the previous owner ever changed antifreeze?

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Dude, I have some advice for you. Don't become a professional photographer. You suck at it. lol

That hole to me looks like a coolant hole in the deck.....with lots of crap in it. I bet the whole water jacket is grody to the max.
 
Yep.... now that the hole location is known, that blocked hole is bad juju... that is one of the main flow passage from the block up into the head. Looked like casting flash and it could be a batch of it that got loose... looks like you poked it out.

That block needs a good cleaning for sure. Can't say if it was not cleaned or if it was quickly cleaned and the subsequent running with fresh AF loosened up more crud.... had that happen to a block that spent 2 days in just the rust tank and then a day in the hot tank... even that did not get it all out, and the later operation with fresh coolant brought more and more out. Needed coolant changes after the rebuild. And yes, the AF may never have been changed there.

The bores look awfully shiny to me (too smooth), but flash pix can be deceiving and exaggerate that factor. Looks like someone got carried away with a ridge reamer in the last pix of the bores, or there is a very strange ridge there.
 
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Looks like a good time to start over with that 360. The 318 will need a rebuild and so does the 360 most likely. I know which one of the two I'd be taking to the machine shop.
Following...
 
The car as it sits isn't bad. It dosen't have rust and is complete... except for the grill which I am looking for.

This is my wife's baby muscle car. My brother in law has three 69 dodge Darts. One with a 408 stroker, numbers matching 340 car and a work in progress.

We want a driver that looks decent, is reliable and has a little rumble to it.
I am wondering if with the issues that this engine has if I would be better off going through the brother in laws 360. He said he would give it to me along with a set of Hooker headers. I just have to pick it up.
If we go with the 360 are there things to change to install it?

Sorry for the dumb questions. I have had one Dodge before and I really liked it. Been a backyard mechanic for a long time but my Mopar experience is limited.

I do know that on any engine more cubic inches generally means more power. Without being radical.
 
The 360 has a longer stroke and that is the big benefit... better torque in low and mid range.
  • Flexplate and or torque converter need to be changed as the 360 uses external weights in back and up front to help the balance (called an 'external balance' engine). Since your flexplate is busted, then just get a B&M one for the 360 in front of a 904 and use the present TC.
  • IIRC, motor mounts may need changing or adapting on the left side.... I bet someone can confirm or deny that.
  • Oil pan may need to be changed on the 360 if it is from a truck or van; the 318 and 360 pans don't interchange.
Of course, you don't yet know what kind of basket case the 360 is, or is not!
 
Yes left side engine motor mount stand will have to be changed. 340-360 are the same. You will have to run the proper flex plate to be able to use your original converter. You will need a car 360 oil pan if the 360 didn't come out of a car.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Yes left side engine motor mount stand will have to be changed. 340-360 are the same. You will have to run the proper flex plate to be able to use your original converter. You will need a car 360 oil pan if the 360 didn't come out of a car.
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Thanks for the info. I will contact my brother in law to see if he knows what kind of vehicle that he 360 was in.
 
If you have a welder you can just modify your existing mount. That's what I did.
 
Washers will work just fine for a spacer.
 
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