72 Dart 440 4-speed build

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I'm slowly getting the engine and car closer together. I got the lakewood 15330 bellhousing indicated and ordered up some offset dowel pins from RobbMc. I wasn't able to use the motor plate as the factory dowels are not long enough. Hoping that doesn't change any of the measurements too much. I also order an advanced adapters speedometer plug kit. I couldn't find any reviews but it seems like a really piece.

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Good news: I got the bell centered to within 0.0025". Bad news: the bellhousing and the header want to share the same space!

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It sounds really good. A full exhaust system will near bout hide that mild lope and it will almost be a sleeper. lol
 
I installed the clutch and bellhousing today. I found a few other posts showing how they had to modify the driver's header for the z-bar. I can see why now. I'll have to do the same.

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Looks good Jake ! I like the silver on the bell .
Which Mcleod is that ?

I had Boise Muffler get my 3" exhaust installed yesterday . They did a great job ! Added a balance tube and welded the entire system .
Its much quieter now... more like sleeper I was hoping for.
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I test fit the motor and transmission today today. I ran into a couple fitment issues. The firewall seam needs clearanced for the bellhousing, not a big deal. The other big issue is the oil pump contacts the crossmember, not allowing the motor mount to fully seat. I completely forgot about having to clearance the crossmember. I pulled the motor back out will start on the fixes.

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Nice work ! Maybe I can stop by this week to check it out . I can bring that dashpad .
 
I got the engine in for what I'm hoping is the last time. I ended up having to elongate out the holes in the transmission mount to try and get the engine as far forward as possible to keep the oil pump out of the crossmember mount. There is only about an .125" of metal left on the side of the mounting hole in the crossmember mount and it is still extremely close. The Schumacher headers for the most part slip right in. Both need modified as the passenger side hits the torsion bar and the drivers side interferes with the z-rod. The only other issue is the factory RB dipstick runs right into the steering box. I'll have to go with an aftermarket flexible option on that.

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I got the engine in for what I'm hoping is the last time. I ended up having to elongate out the holes in the transmission mount to try and get the engine as far forward as possible to keep the oil pump out of the crossmember mount. There is only about an .125" of metal left on the side of the mounting hole in the crossmember mount and it is still extremely close. The Schumacher headers for the most part slip right in. Both need modified as the passenger side hits the torsion bar and the drivers side interferes with the z-rod. The only other issue is the factory RB dipstick runs right into the steering box. I'll have to go with an aftermarket flexible option on that.

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Moving the engine forward may very well cause you rad. / fan clearance problems , I `d do something else !
 
According to Schumacher instructions the drivers side motor mount pad needs to be notched for oil pump interference. This should help engine to sit level and in correct spot.
 
According to Schumacher instructions the drivers side motor mount pad needs to be notched for oil pump interference. This should help engine to sit level and in correct spot.
I modified the mount just like the directions. I think there are just too many variables for it to work perfectly for everyone. It's in and it should work.
 
Any progress lately?

Reminds me a LOT of my project... here is the link when mine was at about your stage.. then the monkey wrench was thrown!
 
He is living in Japan right now so I doubt he has made much more progress

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Any progress lately?

Reminds me a LOT of my project... here is the link when mine was at about your stage.. then the monkey wrench was thrown!
 
Very cool! Look forward to seeing your progress when you return home to the states. I have a 72 440 as well, 727 though. Yours sounds great!
 
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