72 Demon slanty-to-340 Resto

[knote72]

So I talked about this on a couple prior threads, but 2 weeks ago I went over to Boise and brought home a 72 Demon as my project car. For $1500, it's got:

• Slant 6
• 3spd auto
• 7.25" rear end (has the oddly shaped diff cover with the 9 bolt pattern)
  
• New sway bars (included, but not installed)
  
• Hotchkis tie rods
• KYB shocks all round
• Aftermarket strut bars
  
• Tubular control arms (brand unknown)
• Aftermarket brake cylinder and booster
• Drilled/slotted rotors in front

Most of these upgrades set me on the right path, but there are plenty of other things I'll need to change out. For starters:

• Swap the slant for a 340 and find a V8 K-member (may keep the slant for a future project, idk yet). Have plans for alum. heads+intake and a full blown sequential efi setup (edelbrock has a full kit, it's a bit spendy but not too far outta reason considering it's one of few non-TBI efi systems on the market).
• Swap the 904 for a 5-6spd manual, right now the main candidates are Passon's 855 and the Tremec T56 (anyone in the Pac Northwest wanna buy a 904?). The 855 is direct OEM fit, no tunnel mods, but the Tremec is readily available. Thap also means swapping the steering column for a non-auto one.
• Swap the 7.25" rear for a 8.75" and a sure grip (figure 3.55 is a nice round gear ratio to put it close to daily drive-able). Could I make a few bucks selling the 7.25", or is it basically junkyard-bound?
• Stock radiator is toast, half the fins in the first row are gone completely, so a new alum. radiator is in order. Also gonna drop the belt-driven fan for a comp-controlled twin-electric. Between electric fans, new stereo system and the efi system, there's gonna be quite a bit of power draw so it'll need a better alternator. I'd imagine this also means a lot more electrical work than I realize..........
• Came with a front bench seat, but I'll instead go for two buckets and a woodgrain center console around the shifter.
• Depending on how much vacuum I'll generate with the engine setup, I may dump the brake booster and go all discs.

In the meantime, the big task for me is body work. While it's not a total rust bucket, it's an Ohio car so you can guess there's some holes in it.

And now it's an Oregon car

 

[DusterDaddy]

Congratulations on the find. Glad its one piece.
Best of luck on the project!

 

[knote72]

Congratulations on the find. Glad its one piece.
Best of luck on the project!

Yeah it's not 100% free of rust, but it's manageable and for the price it was hard to beat (especially being one of only a dozen demons popping up on craigslist in oregon/washington/idaho for the whole past year). The upgrades on it just sweetened the deal, and made less work for me down the road. Plus I can at least sell the 904 and make back almost half of what I paid for it. The slant however has a unique appeal to it, I may just clean it up and shelf it for a future project.

 

[72bluNblu]

Nice project!

I did a few of the same things on my build, I started with a ‘74, /6 auto on the column and converted it over to a 340 4 speed, 8 3/4 etc. Should have the T56 conversion done by the end of the year (fingers crossed!).

My build is here if you want to take a look. My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head

 

[knote72]

Nice project!

I did a few of the same things on my build, I started with a ‘74, /6 auto on the column and converted it over to a 340 4 speed, 8 3/4 etc. Should have the T56 conversion done by the end of the year (fingers crossed!).

My build is here if you want to take a look. My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head

I'll be watching! Keep tabs on how much work goes into installing a T56. Passon Performance is getting faster catching up with their A855 orders, but I hear there's still a bit of a waitlist

 

[moparmat2000]

Nice start. I would recomnend dumping the tie rod setup you have on there unless its a quarter miler only. Those open heim joint ends will eventually get dirt in them and grind up inside. Pick up some regular greasable inner and outer tie rods and adjuster sleeves if you plan on driving it a lot, and might possibly get caught in the rain. Car has the TVS system with tubular uppers. KYBs and front discs. Thats a great start. If you decide you want power discs and have a radical cam, you can go with a hydroboost setup and retain your power brakes.

I have an A833 o/d box but if you have the coin for a new box recommend the A588 as it is a bolt in. Whereas with the tremec your going to make a new trans tunnel, a modified trans mount, shorten the driveshaft, and hope the shifter comes out in the right spot if you decide to use a factory console.

A body 8.75 rear great axle if you got $1,200-$1,600 to burn on one, and still have rear drums.

Or an A body 8.25 mopar rear about $600 when done if you source gears and a sure grip from a junkyard grand cherokee 8.45.

Or use the search function on fabo for ford explorer 8.8 installs. It comes wit 3.5" axle tubes, heavy duty. At least as strong as an 8.75, lots of ratios available. Junkyard buy ins for the xploder sport trak (pickip xploder) at pick n pull range from $150 - $200 dont forget to take the explorer shock plates and U bolts, and an extra right side inner axle you need when cutting 3" off rhe longer left axle tube to shorten it to an A body width, and new weld on spring perches off evilbay for that bigger axle tube, and a ford/mopar bastard U joint

Sport trak axle has standard
Big bolt pattern
3.73 gears 3.90, 4.10 optional
Locking diff
Disc brakes

 

[72bluNblu]

Good call on the Hotchkis TVS system, that’s exactly what that is. You can buy seals for those heims on the tie rods, I’ll see if I can pull up the link.

Great start except for the KYB’s, those things are terrible. Bilsteins or Hotchkis shocks for large diameter torsion bars.

 

[moparmat2000]

I'm gonna run 340 bars, and dropping 200 lbs off the front of my car with a diet of aluminum parts, this will stiffen em up. I will be using KYBs

 

[knote72]

Nice start. I would recomnend dumping the tie rod setup you have on there unless its a quarter miler only. Those open heim joint ends will eventually get dirt in them and grind up inside. Pick up some regular greasable inner and outer tie rods and adjuster sleeves if you plan on driving it a lot, and might possibly get caught in the rain. Car has the TVS system with tubular uppers. KYBs and front discs. Thats a great start. If you decide you want power discs and have a radical cam, you can go with a hydroboost setup and retain your power brakes.

I have an A833 o/d box but if you have the coin for a new box recommend the A588 as it is a bolt in. Whereas with the tremec your going to make a new trans tunnel, a modified trans mount, shorten the driveshaft, and hope the shifter comes out in the right spot if you decide to use a factory console.

A body 8.75 rear great axle if you got $1,200-$1,600 to burn on one, and still have rear drums.

Or an A body 8.25 mopar rear about $600 when done if you source gears and a sure grip from a junkyard grand cherokee 8.45.

Or use the search function on fabo for ford explorer 8.8 installs. It comes wit 3.5" axle tubes, heavy duty. At least as strong as an 8.75, lots of ratios available. Junkyard buy ins for the xploder sport trak (pickip xploder) at pick n pull range from $150 - $200 dont forget to take the explorer shock plates and U bolts, and an extra right side inner axle you need when cutting 3" off rhe longer left axle tube to shorten it to an A body width, and new weld on spring perches off evilbay for that bigger axle tube, and a ford/mopar bastard U joint

Sport trak axle has standard
Big bolt pattern
3.73 gears 3.90, 4.10 optional
Locking diff
Disc brakes

ok guess I can replace rod ends. I'll weight cost vs weight on whether to go hydroboost or lighten front end and go manual discs. I'll table that and rack up the numbers later.

I plan to daily this thing as much as I can, so it needs at least a 5spd (the slant as it is revs up doing just 50). The 6spd t56 is enticing, super low rpm at highway speed, but if the 855 is available by the time I'm ready for the trans then I'll opt for that instead. It may be a couple years out so hopefully they catch up on orders.

I have the 8.25" in my Dakota (if it'll fit), I hear it's good up to 500hp which is a bit more than I figure on putting out, but I'll have to weigh the work and parts availability for installing it over the 8.75".

 

[72bluNblu]

I'm gonna run 340 bars, and dropping 200 lbs off the front of my car with a diet of aluminum parts, this will stiffen em up. I will be using KYBs

Just call your dentist and make some appointments to replace your fillings when you start driving that thing . I ran KYBs for almost 60k miles on my Challenger. I’ve done some stupid stuff, but that ranks right up there. Putting Bilsteins on that car and tossing the KYB’s in the trash was one of the better mods I’ve done. Whole new car for ride quality.

ok guess I can replace rod ends. I'll weight cost vs weight on whether to go hydroboost or lighten front end and go manual discs. I'll table that and rack up the numbers later.

I plan to daily this thing as much as I can, so it needs at least a 5spd (the slant as it is revs up doing just 50). The 6spd t56 is enticing, super low rpm at highway speed, but if the 855 is available by the time I'm ready for the trans then I'll opt for that instead. It may be a couple years out so hopefully they catch up on orders.

I have the 8.25" in my Dakota (if it'll fit), I hear it's good up to 500hp which is a bit more than I figure on putting out, but I'll have to weigh the work and parts availability for installing it over the 8.75".

Don’t toss the hotchkis steering arms, they should be ok with some seals. Here’s the ones I’m talking about, I think these will be the right size.

Seals it WS62506PK

The heims on the UCA’s are going to be a bigger problem for wearing out anyway, at least based on the rate I have to replace the ones on the Hotchkis UCA’s on my Challenger.

 

[knote72]

Good call on the Hotchkis TVS system, that’s exactly what that is. You can buy seals for those heims on the tie rods, I’ll see if I can pull up the link.

Great start except for the KYB’s, those things are terrible. Bilsteins or Hotchkis shocks for large diameter torsion bars.

These upgrades weren't my explicit choice, they were already on the car.

 

[72bluNblu]

These upgrades weren't my explicit choice, they were already on the car.

The torsion bars
View attachment 1715095786View attachment 1715095787

Those are strut rods, not torsion bars. Torsion bars are on the other side of the LCA running back to the transmission cross member.

 

[knote72]

Those are strut rods, not torsion bars. Torsion bars are on the other side of the LCA running back to the transmission cross member.

I know I quickly realized I pic'd the struts and not the t-bars I didn't get a whole pic of em but one kinda pops into view in the pic of the hotchkis rods

 

[moparmat2000]

Dakots 8.25 wont fit your car. Find an 8.25 on a 73 to 76 A body. Its a big bolt pattern bolt in. Get the gears and sure grip out of a frand cherokee in your pick n pull. Lot cheaper than an 8.75. Had i known about the 8.25 early enough, i would have bought one, and not spent all that cash on buying the pieces and building an 8.75. I got $1,200 in mine, and thats with lots of swapping and trading. I wont ever build an 8.75 again. No more A body 8.25s left by me. Furd xploder 8.8 is the route im going on my sons car.

I will put the kybs in there and try em out, i bought them since they were part of the TVS i figured it was thought out with them in mind. If they rattle my fillings. Then i will concider something else leaning towards bilsteins.

 

[knote72]

Dakots 8.25 wont fit your car. Find an 8.25 on a 73 to 76 A body bolt in. Get the gears and sure grip out of a frand cherokee in your pick n pull.

I will put the kybs in there and try em out, i bought them since they were part of the TVS i figured it was thought out with them in mind. If they rattle my fillings. Then i will concider something else leaning towards bilsteins.

If anything involves the pick n pull yards around here then it's wise to just forget it. I have a cherokee I'm trying to sell and went looking for parts for, the few yards around here are either no help or dont have **** for jeeps in their lots. Honestly I'll just scour FABO and craigslist for any that pop up in the area. If one pops up, I'll opt for a 8.75" or 8.25" by default (jegs has parts for em under 74 dart), but I won't waste my time driving across town to a yard that doesn't have any jeeps when they told me over the phone they had 3 (obviously speaking from experience).

It wasn't too bad when I took it into town to get the new title and plates, only over the train tracks but at that crossing you'll lose an axle if you go over 10 (bad part of town, but fun fact it's a 1/4 mile down the road from where the show Graveyard Carz sets up shop, oh and I partied with the owner's daughter in high school ). Only bad part was the last guy had the camber set too far in, outer wheels were digging in on corners

 

[72bluNblu]

8 3/4's aren't that bad as long as you avoid A-body housings.

With a Demon you can use a B-body 8 3/4 and those are half the price of the A-body 8 3/4's, and everything's already big bolt pattern. Until I bought an all brand new 3rd member a week ago, I don't think I had more than $500 in any of my 8 3/4's, and I've got a bunch. I think the most I paid for a B-body housing with axles was $250 (no 3rd member). I paid $65 for a bare E-body 8 3/4 housing of all things from eBay just last year, and that was shipped!!! Most of the used stock 8 3/4 axles are like $100, just need new bearings (again, non A-body). And for a few years there were frequently 8 3/4's in the pickNpull's around here, they were like $160 drum to drum on sale so I have a few. The 3rd member in my Duster right now was out of a truck at picknpull. Pulled the whole 8 3/4, dropped the chunk and cleaned it up a bit, installed. Been running it for thousands of miles now. The 489 with 4.30 gears I just bought from Dr. Diff to go with my T56 swap will be the only new one I have, the rest either came with one of my cars or out of a yard, no rebuilds, all original.

Honestly I wouldn't build an 8.25. If I found one I might run it as is, but I never saw an A-body 8.25 in the yards here in 10 years of looking. B, C and truck 8 3/4's, and a few F body 8.25's, but nothing A-body other than 7.25's. If I was going to do something other than an 8 3/4 I'd go with the Ford 8.8, you can get those from the wrecking yards, usually with pretty decent gear ratio's and they have disk brakes. You can do the trick where you shorten the long tube to match the shorter side and grab an extra short side axle from another exploder. With a Demon you can just run it as is too though. If you shorten the "long side" to match the short tube they're 56 3/4" wheel mount to wheel mount, and in original form they're 59 3/16", which is still shorter than the 60.125" 68-70 B body 8 3/4 I run. Here's a good thread on the 8.8 8.8 swap I would use some kind of jig to shorten the tube, but that's just me.

 

[knote72]

8 3/4's aren't that bad as long as you avoid A-body housings.

With a Demon you can use a B-body 8 3/4 and those are half the price of the A-body 8 3/4's, and everything's already big bolt pattern. Until I bought an all brand new 3rd member a week ago, I don't think I had more than $500 in any of my 8 3/4's, and I've got a bunch. I think the most I paid for a B-body housing with axles was $250 (no 3rd member). I paid $65 for a bare E-body 8 3/4 housing of all things from eBay just last year, and that was shipped!!! Most of the used stock 8 3/4 axles are like $100, just need new bearings (again, non A-body). And for a few years there were frequently 8 3/4's in the pickNpull's around here, they were like $160 drum to drum on sale so I have a few. The 3rd member in my Duster right now was out of a truck at picknpull. Pulled the whole 8 3/4, dropped the chunk and cleaned it up a bit, installed. Been running it for thousands of miles now. The 489 with 4.30 gears I just bought from Dr. Diff to go with my T56 swap will be the only new one I have, the rest either came with one of my cars or out of a yard, no rebuilds, all original.

Honestly I wouldn't build an 8.25. If I found one I might run it as is, but I never saw an A-body 8.25 in the yards here in 10 years of looking. B, C and truck 8 3/4's, and a few F body 8.25's, but nothing A-body other than 7.25's. If I was going to do something other than an 8 3/4 I'd go with the Ford 8.8, you can get those from the wrecking yards, usually with pretty decent gear ratio's and they have disk brakes. You can do the trick where you shorten the long tube to match the shorter side and grab an extra short side axle from another exploder. With a Demon you can just run it as is too though. If you shorten the "long side" to match the short tube they're 56 3/4" wheel mount to wheel mount, and in original form they're 59 3/16", which is still shorter than the 60.125" 68-70 B body 8 3/4 I run. Here's a good thread on the 8.8 8.8 swap I would use some kind of jig to shorten the tube, but that's just me.

The 8.75" was my first choice, up until yesterday I never really gave the 8.25" much thought. Since my build I really only expect in the ballpark of 400hp, I could do a 8.25", I just like the heady duty appeal to the 8.75". But what's with this 8.8 swap (Ford=icky!) that keeps coming up? Are the a-body 8.75 axles in short supply? Because if nothing else its $1200 for the housing from moser engineering Moser Engineering - 8 3/4 Mopar Complete Built to Order Stamped Housing & Axle Package Part Number Configurator - Housings Considering the incompetence of the people who work the counters at my local junkyards, it's almost more worthwhile just to spend the $1200 and get a whole new axle. Seriously, at one yard one hand can't agree with the other, the other the guy behind the counter won't take a minute just to search his computer to see if they have a part in the yard. I've had to deal with them on more than 1 occasion

 

[HemiDenny]

The seals for the heims are not meant for street use, mine did not last more than 100 miles. They are designed mostly for the dirt racer that changes them out after the race weekend.....at least that is what Seals It told me after I called when the ones I were using were not holding up.....that was 20 years ago, maybe they improved them, but they look the same.

Good luck on your hot rod build.

 

[moparmat2000]

The 8.75" was my first choice, up until yesterday I never really gave the 8.25" much thought. Since my build I really only expect in the ballpark of 400hp, I could do a 8.25", I just like the heady duty appeal to the 8.75". But what's with this 8.8 swap (Ford=icky!) that keeps coming up? Are the a-body 8.75 axles in short supply? Because if nothing else its $1200 for the housing from moser engineering Moser Engineering - 8 3/4 Mopar Complete Built to Order Stamped Housing & Axle Package Part Number Configurator - Housings Considering the incompetence of the people who work the counters at my local junkyards, it's almost more worthwhile just to spend the $1200 and get a whole new axle. Seriously, at one yard one hand can't agree with the other, the other the guy behind the counter won't take a minute just to search his computer to see if they have a part in the yard. I've had to deal with them on more than 1 occasion

I have 2 local yards that let me go in and nose around. One ia 10 acres, and he lets me drive my truck in, and go up and down the rows. This allows me to bring my floor jack and other tools i need.

As far as the 8.75s being all over the place, glad to hear it is like that in your area mr. BluNblu where you have 8.75s all over the place. See below. Start adding the costs to build one in my area, and i am a bargain shopper. I left no stone unturned looking for one. Ended up having to piece one together, the only thing i could find was i lucked onto a shortened truck housing no perches welded on, with all SBP brakes, and axles no center chunk for $275 firm. He would not seperate and sell me just the axle tube. It was in lubbock which is hours away. Family road trip to visit my wifes old friends. Buy a 67 C body axle complete with smaller 11x2 brakes just for its 742 chunk $100. Was hoping i could have the C body axles cut and resplined. Axles were necked down, were not resplinable. Buy MP perches $20. Rebuild larger swept area 10x2.5" BBP drum brakes off 74 7.25 axle to put on 8.75. New wheel cylinders, all new hardware, new shoes, a set of 10x2.5" finned rear drums off cordoba. Total $150. New doctor diff axles w green bearings A body length BBP $300. Now onto the chunk itself. It had freeway gears in it, and a pegleg diff. I dont remember the ratio, but it was somewhat less than sporting. So new motive gear 3.73 gear set, bearings and install kit, limited slip, new ring gear bolts. $700 , payed a buddy of mine whos the local high auto school shop teacher $50 to rebuild it and use it as a teaching tool while he was at it. His price not mine. He runs a top alcohol dragster with a shortened 8.75 in it, and sets up his chunks, so i trust him. Add it all up it was $1,595. I sold the small bolt pattern axles for $150, and the small bolt pattern bell drums, everything from backing plate out with new wheel cylinders and pads the way i purchased it $150. So by selling these parts i was only ahead of the game on my original parts purchase by $25. And my total after selling those parts was $1,295 and a few years of rounding up the cash and parts to do it.

If you live in an area where the yards are littered w 8.75s dirt cheap, i say go for it, however they are as rare as hens teeth here, and the only way your gonna get one here is to piece it together yourself. Oh and BTW every C body i come across in my local bone yard that should have an 8.75 is sitting w no engine or trans in it, and the back bumper in the dirt, and the leaf springs are hanging out of the trunk. My C body rear came out of the houston area. The guy was looking for mopar stuff up this way and had one. Offered to load it and bring it for free. The $1,295 climbs another $20 as i lucked out on some 3" shock plates lying in the trunk of a 66 fury on a junkyard visit and didnt have to wrench em off and the salvage owner didnt charge me gold plated prices for em either.

I like my 8.75. I think the welded rear cover is sexy looking, and drop out third member is great. But after what i went thru and spent to get it, i will never do that again. A mopar guy runs the other boneyard i frequent. He is outta 8.25s, no A or B body 8.75s either. He turned me on to fabo 10 years ago, and also recently the Furd xploder axle swap, i researched it from there. My sons car will have the xploder axle under it. Cheapest way to BBP, rear discs, good performance minded gears, and a locker. A little modfing if you want it closer to A body width, and a set of new perches for a 3.50" axle tube and away you go. Also the xploder finned aluminum rear cover off the independent rear axle xploders bolts on. Paint it black and polish the fins. Looks cool.

 

[72demon]

Well if you need help or advise let me know and I have pretty good parts guy that does all mopar here and has a lot of parts if you want send me a private message and well exchange info so we can call Later

 

[knote72]

Yeah when it comes time for it I might try to endure dealing with the local yards and look around for an axle here. If not, I'll even try yards up in Salem or even Portland (God forbid). In the other thread I got a good look at what differentiates the axles so I know what the prize is. A-body car, oval diff cover for 8.25", round for 8.75", both use 10 bolts (avoid oblong cover w/ 9 bolts, that's 7.25"). If I can't find any 8.75" then I'll settle for 8.25", but the 8.8 exploder swap just sounds like a last resort that'll require modding and eat up time that could be put toward the body work I need to do.

Plus after years of dealing with Ford garbage, considering how many we sent to the junkyard, it'd honestly turn my stomach having part of one on my car.

 

[72bluNblu]

I have 2 local yards that let me go in and nose around. One ia 10 acres, and he lets me drive my truck in, and go up and down the rows. This allows me to bring my floor jack and other tools i need.

As far as the 8.75s being all over the place, glad to hear it is like that in your area mr. BluNblu where you have 8.75s all over the place. See below. Start adding the costs to build one in my area, and i am a bargain shopper. I left no stone unturned looking for one. Ended up having to piece one together, the only thing i could find was i lucked onto a shortened truck housing no perches welded on, with all SBP brakes, and axles no center chunk for $275 firm. He would not seperate and sell me just the axle tube. It was in lubbock which is hours away. Family road trip to visit my wifes old friends. Buy a 67 C body axle complete with smaller 11x2 brakes just for its 742 chunk $100. Was hoping i could have the C body axles cut and resplined. Axles were necked down, were not resplinable. Buy MP perches $20. Rebuild larger swept area 10x2.5" BBP drum brakes off 74 7.25 axle to put on 8.75. New wheel cylinders, all new hardware, new shoes, a set of 10x2.5" finned rear drums off cordoba. Total $150. New doctor diff axles w green bearings A body length BBP $300. Now onto the chunk itself. It had freeway gears in it, and a pegleg diff. I dont remember the ratio, but it was somewhat less than sporting. So new motive gear 3.73 gear set, bearings and install kit, limited slip, new ring gear bolts. $700 , payed a buddy of mine whos the local high auto school shop teacher $50 to rebuild it and use it as a teaching tool while he was at it. His price not mine. He runs a top alcohol dragster with a shortened 8.75 in it, and sets up his chunks, so i trust him. Add it all up it was $1,595. I sold the small bolt pattern axles for $150, and the small bolt pattern bell drums, everything from backing plate out with new wheel cylinders and pads the way i purchased it $150. So by selling these parts i was only ahead of the game on my original parts purchase by $25. And my total after selling those parts was $1,295 and a few years of rounding up the cash and parts to do it.

If you live in an area where the yards are littered w 8.75s dirt cheap, i say go for it, however they are as rare as hens teeth here, and the only way your gonna get one here is to piece it together yourself. Oh and BTW every C body i come across in my local bone yard that should have an 8.75 is sitting w no engine or trans in it, and the back bumper in the dirt, and the leaf springs are hanging out of the trunk. My C body rear came out of the houston area. The guy was looking for mopar stuff up this way and had one. Offered to load it and bring it for free. The $1,295 climbs another $20 as i lucked out on some 3" shock plates lying in the trunk of a 66 fury on a junkyard visit and didnt have to wrench em off and the salvage owner didnt charge me gold plated prices for em either.

I like my 8.75. I think the welded rear cover is sexy looking, and drop out third member is great. But after what i went thru and spent to get it, i will never do that again. A mopar guy runs the other boneyard i frequent. He is outta 8.25s, no A or B body 8.75s either. He turned me on to fabo 10 years ago, and also recently the Furd xploder axle swap, i researched it from there. My sons car will have the xploder axle under it. Cheapest way to BBP, rear discs, good performance minded gears, and a locker. A little modfing if you want it closer to A body width, and a set of new perches for a 3.50" axle tube and away you go. Also the xploder finned aluminum rear cover off the independent rear axle xploders bolts on. Paint it black and polish the fins. Looks cool.

Hey, no offense meant. I just posted my experience, and I honestly haven't seen an A-body 8.25. Like ever. They only came in the 73+ cars, and the vast majority of those had /6's and 7.25's. Even the ones with 318's had 7.25's a lot of the time, I know my '74 Dart parts car did.

But I have seen plenty of 8 3/4's. I have like 5 pickNpull yards within about 30 minutes of me though. I actually stopped pulling 8 3/4's because I have a bunch, couple of C-body 8 3/4's, a sweptline era truck 8 3/4 (for my satellite with an 8.25), and a couple of B-body 8 3/4's that I bought online and had shipped to me. Neither of those cost more than $250, even bought online and shipped. So, you don't necessarily need to find one local as long as you're willing to use a B-body housing.

The 8.8's get used because they're strong enough, and Explorers of the right era are easy to find in most local salvage yards. So, you can get them cheap, they usually have decent gears (lots have the 3.73 and a limited slip), and they come with disk brakes. So you can't beat the price, I mean, I could get a complete 8.8 from pickNpull for under $200 most of the time. And if you can weld you can shorten them. But again, you don't even need to shorten them for a Demon if you don't mind running slightly higher offset wheels. So basically if you have some mechanical skills the 8.8 is a great way to cheaply install a rear end that won't blow up, has disk brakes already, and usually doesn't even need a gear change or limited slip added. If of course you can get over the Ford thing.

 

[moparmat2000]

No offense taken. Different demographics. Where i live its the middle of nowhere. Pick n pull yards 30 mins away?? Whats that lol. The nice ones w crushed stone and the cars all sitting on welded rim jackstands. Yep i seen those in car craft magazine when Steve Magnante does his junkyard crawl articles. Been to one in dallas once. They had the crushed stone and jackstands. Pricing printouts, pay $1, sign a waiver and your in. Niiice. I felt like i went to heaven in that place. Problem is its 3 hours away from me. Thats the closest place i could find like that. The local places know they got you over a barrel so to speak. So you buy local, or drive your *** off spending 6 hours on the road, plus fuel in your pickup, hunt the junkyard hoping theres something there, wrench it out, get it for a cheap price, or pay the man locally.

Case in point locally 10 mins away at the 10 acre place i can get an xploder 8.8 in a sport trak which come standard w a locker. Its a 4.10 ratio. They want $350 cash no tax, and i have to remove it myself. That means enlist a car buddy and buy em lunch, and prepare to get filthy on red dirt for a few hours. Or go to dallas, spending 6 hours on the road round trip, plus gas, hopefully find find the rear, get less filthy on the crushed stone removing it. Pay $180 for it plus 8.25% sales tax, and a $40 core fee because i dont have one to return. So $234 plus fuel, buy car buddy a breakfast and a lunch for going on this odessy and helping out, plus a whole day used up. Either way it costs.

 

[knote72]

Hey, no offense meant. I just posted my experience, and I honestly haven't seen an A-body 8.25. Like ever. They only came in the 73+ cars, and the vast majority of those had /6's and 7.25's. Even the ones with 318's had 7.25's a lot of the time, I know my '74 Dart parts car did.

But I have seen plenty of 8 3/4's. I have like 5 pickNpull yards within about 30 minutes of me though. I actually stopped pulling 8 3/4's because I have a bunch, couple of C-body 8 3/4's, a sweptline era truck 8 3/4 (for my satellite with an 8.25), and a couple of B-body 8 3/4's that I bought online and had shipped to me. Neither of those cost more than $250, even bought online and shipped. So, you don't necessarily need to find one local as long as you're willing to use a B-body housing.

The 8.8's get used because they're strong enough, and Explorers of the right era are easy to find in most local salvage yards. So, you can get them cheap, they usually have decent gears (lots have the 3.73 and a limited slip), and they come with disk brakes. So you can't beat the price, I mean, I could get a complete 8.8 from pickNpull for under $200 most of the time. And if you can weld you can shorten them. But again, you don't even need to shorten them for a Demon if you don't mind running slightly higher offset wheels. So basically if you have some mechanical skills the 8.8 is a great way to cheaply install a rear end that won't blow up, has disk brakes already, and usually doesn't even need a gear change or limited slip added. If of course you can get over the Ford thing.

My Ford stigma is justified, even if it comes off as silly. Only one Ford we've had is worth it's weight in scrap metal, that's my daily driver ranger. I daily it cuz it gets a solid 28mpg, even though that 4cyl is gutless on the highway or any kind of hill. It's also a sliding hazard in the winter. Regardless, I give it props, not just being reliable but for being the ONLY Ford that hasn't turned into a pit of problems and expense.

My friend and his dad are Chevy guys, whereas I'm a mopar guy. We both have our preferences, but the thing we can agree on is, as far as functionality is concerned, Ford stuff comes dead last on our list.

No offense taken. Different demographics. Where i live its the middle of nowhere. Pick n pull yards 30 mins away?? Whats that lol. The nice ones w crushed stone and the cars all sitting on welded rim jackstands. Yep i seen those in car craft magazine when Steve Magnante does his junkyard crawl articles. Been to one in dallas once. They had the crushed stone and jackstands. Pricing printouts, pay $1, sign a waiver and your in. Niiice. I felt like i went to heaven in that place. Problem is its 3 hours away from me. Thats the closest place i could find like that. The local places know they got you over a barrel so to speak. So you buy local, or drive your *** off spending 6 hours on the road, plus fuel in your pickup, hunt the junkyard hoping theres something there, wrench it out, get it for a cheap price, or pay the man locally.

Case in point locally 10 mins away at the 10 acre place i can get an xploder 8.8 in a sport trak which come standard w a locker. Its a 4.10 ratio. They want $350 cash no tax, and i have to remove it myself. That means enlist a car buddy and buy em lunch, and prepare to get filthy on red dirt for a few hours. Or go to dallas, spending 6 hours on the road round trip, plus gas, hopefully find find the rear, get less filthy on the crushed stone removing it. Pay $180 for it plus 8.25% sales tax, and a $40 core fee because i dont have one to return. So $234 plus fuel, buy car buddy a breakfast and a lunch for going on this odessy and helping out, plus a whole day used up. Either way it costs.

I'm 30 minutes just outside of town (hence the nearest junkyard, so when they screw me around they waste time and gas money for me). Like you I live in the boonies, outside of a tiny town that's a halfway-stop between slightly-larger towns. My Ranger gets 28 on the highway luckily so it isn't too bad I guess. If I were to try any of the yards in Salem or Portland it'd be a day-trip because I'd call ahead then check every single one until I found what I was looking for. 30 minutes into town "local" or an hour to Salem or Portland. The difference here is at the end of the day I'd be covered in darker dirt and not red dirt. I also have a few friends with enough mechanical comprehension to help out in return for a six pack.

 

[knote72]

Since I forgot to carry it over from the last thread, I'm gonna make a quick list of parts I'm after so far. Something to keep me focused on til a bodywork project gets underway. Feel free to comment (within reason, the fallback on asking opinions is apparently no two can quite agree on something)

• 340 block + k-member - no known crate engines made, so I gotta find out where to look for one that might be lurking in my state (some people thought I should just get a 408 stroker block, forgetting I wanted to keep to small block size/weight). If finding a k-member proves unsuccessful, QA1 makes a tubular one I can fall back on QA1 52313: Tubular K-Member 1967-72 Mopar A-Body | JEGS
  
• T56 or Passon A855 trans
• Since I didn't grow up with the familiarity of tuning carbs, and don't hold any stigma towards EFI, that's the way I'm going Edelbrock 32530: Pro-Flo 3 EFI System Small Block Chrysler | JEGS This set looks nifty, but isn't the only one I'm considering. Even with the cost of distributor, intake, throttle body, ECU and efi necessities considered, it's still spendy. In the last thread a few noted the intake is single plane and said that I shouldn't use a single plane, but they forgot the little fact that EFI doesn't play nice with dual planes. The one luxury a carb has over EFI.
• Gotta have a nice light set of cylinder heads Edelbrock 60775: Performer RPM Cylinder Head for Small Block Chrysler | JEGS
  
• Cam choice? Thoughts on how this will work with the intake? 20-811-9 - Xtreme Energy™ Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Camshafts I had some difficulty in the last thread getting thoughts on this one, responses kept trailing off to "why don't you just get a stroker setup" instead of addressing my question. I know that heads, intake and cam pairings greatly affect flow but I'm still green on proper pairings (I at least know the cam won't exceed max valve lift). If I could get thoughts on this intake/head/cam pairing instead of "why don't you just get a stroker", I'd appreciate it.
• I had a header choice in the last thread but someone said they wouldn't fit. Anybody have a set to recommend?
• Stock radiator is GACKED, gonna need a new one Champion Cooling Systems CC526: All-Aluminum Radiator 1970-1972 Plymouth Duster & Dodge Dart | JEGS and while I'm at it I figure I'd go with electric fans to get with the times and free up some hp while I'm at it Flex-a-lite 180: Black Magic X-Treme Electric Puller Fan Includes adjustable thermostat controller | JEGS They had an "easy set" with radiator and electric fan and all hardware, but that fan pulled fewer cfms and pulled more amp draw. I just copied down the extra hardware bits separately.
• It has a 7.25" rear, no good, so gonna search every yard in the state if I have to for a proper width 8.25" or 8.75". I'll get a limited slip and 3.55 gears for it to swap in.
• With the electric fan and efi system drawing additional power, will an upgrade alternator be a must?
• It was greatly recommended I get subframe connectors
• Torsion bars look like they could do with replacement too. What size should I be going with?
• The EFI system will demand a high pressure fuel system, but there are a couple routes I can go with that
• I haven't given much thought to clutch, have I? Centerforce KDF693963: DF COMPLETE CLUTCH KIT | JEGS just throwing an option out there. Also may go hydro clutch if not already there.

Quite the shopping list. Good thing I got time to space it out. I'll definitely look to save money where I can, but if it must cost more to get it done right the first time then so be it. A well-built, small block car with some pounds dropped in the front end and won't mind a few corners (that's why I don't wanna "just get a stroker" and tack on all that extra iron on the front).