727 cooling

-

motohead66

New Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2016
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Location
Vancouver, Wa.
We just swapped my sons 69 Dart from a slant 6 to a 318 with a 727 the 318 runs hot when in line at the drive-in on hot days so I'm thinking of installing a cooling fan along with my belt fan. If I do I don't have room for my tranny cooler. Not sure if I really need a cooler or should I just run the lines back into the bottom of the radiator like the stock application??
 
You should run both. The stock line into the bottom of the radiator and then thru an auxillary trans cooler and back through the radiator and then back to the trans. You not only increase the surface area of the cooling system but you also increase the volume of the fluid. This will lower the temp of the fluid which increases the performance and longevity of the trans.
The cooling system must be up to snuff first. A 318 if it is not modified should idle all day long if it is tuned properly and the cooling system is working properly. First a 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol coolant and DISTILLED water. A functioning 16 lb. radiator cap. Any parts house can test it for you. A 195 degree thermostat. A radiator that has no debris restricting airflow through the core. The core is not clogged with rust etc...A properly sized fan with a thermostatic fan clutch and properly fitting shroud.
These are all of the factory standard parts of a stock cooling system. Radiator cooling fans can be helpful to increase airflow at low speeds. After approximately 40 mph you are forcing more air through the radiator that any type of fan can. Fans are only designed for idling and low speed driving. Now if you have air conditioning, the electric fan is always beneficial as the condenser needs lots of air to do its job.
 
I agree with MoparLeo; your 318 should have no issues idling in all day long (unless heavily modified). Figure out what's causing it to run hot. What's your definition of running hot btw? Are you going by a stock gauge, and if so where's the needle. They aren't exactly the most accurate ways of determining temps.
 
Get an infra red thermometer. Just went through this,guage was possibly reading 30 degrees high.
 
Yep and check the simple stuff first like the radiator cap. If it doesn't hold pressure it will constantly boil over. The infrared temp guns are only about $15.-20. bucks at H.F.
 
Thanks for all the feed back I bought a new three core radiator for it running a clutch fan with a 50/50 mixture. The temp when driving is fine 180 or so by the output nof the aftermarket temp gauge that's installed. It starts rising in temp on hot days when idling in line for more than 15 mins or so the highest its been in the described condition was 220 so I figured an after market fan would help......
 
You should run both. The stock line into the bottom of the radiator and then thru an auxillary trans cooler and back through the radiator and then back to the trans. You not only increase the surface area of the cooling system but you also increase the volume of the fluid. This will lower the temp of the fluid which increases the performance and longevity of the trans.
The cooling system must be up to snuff first. A 318 if it is not modified should idle all day long if it is tuned properly and the cooling system is working properly. First a 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol coolant and DISTILLED water. A functioning 16 lb. radiator cap. Any parts house can test it for you. A 195 degree thermostat. A radiator that has no debris restricting airflow through the core. The core is not clogged with rust etc...A properly sized fan with a thermostatic fan clutch and properly fitting shroud.
These are all of the factory standard parts of a stock cooling system. Radiator cooling fans can be helpful to increase airflow at low speeds. After approximately 40 mph you are forcing more air through the radiator that any type of fan can. Fans are only designed for idling and low speed driving. Now if you have air conditioning, the electric fan is always beneficial as the condenser needs lots of air to do its job.
Agree w/ this post, but, if you run thru the cooler and back into the rad., ur just re heating the fluid back to rad temps. The best and coolest way is run it thru the bottom opening of the rad. and then out the top opening into the bottom of the cooler, out the top and back to the trans. This will be the best cooling effect u can do , it also forces air out of the system. I`ve ran 4 diff. hotrods this way. If in a cold climate, U should let things warm up before driving tho.
 
-
Back
Top