727 No forward or reverse

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Hi, another update.

Turned out that my converter is destroyed to pieces and it was the problem from the beginning. It never showed any signs of problems which was wierd...

Can You guys recommend good quality to durability compromise? I am aiming for 3200 stall which seems perfect for my car.

Thanks for all the help, from positive stuff I managed to put the trans back together which was really good fun.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Hooray!
Glad you got to the bottom of it
Click to expand...

Thanks for your input!

About your earlier comment in fact I had a big wear problem in rear drum not front one.

Now I need to get a converter ASAP ;-)

Each time I look for parts for my car here in Europe I want to open a local store with parts and "normal" prices. Here its a total ripoff, they make this hobby fun for the rich which totally suck for people that try to wrench on their own stuff like I do.
 
OK so now I am facing a choice of converter and am not sure what to get.

I need 3000+ converter and want to keep in reasonable budget. Cam spec says 2800+, I have 4.11 rear end and 27" or 29" tires(2 sets) . My car is a driver, there is not a single prepared track in my country so I can skip this problem. Given my gear ratio I usually crusie on highway with engine turning 3500+ rpms.

My initial idea was to get B&M (525$), Hughes(430$) or TCI(575$), but after some reading I see that these are not the best choices...?
What about RevMax or Dynamic? (both 600$)

Any suggestion would be great. I was surprised to see that B&M is not a good stuff... Or is it? What about Hughes? I never had anything bad to say about this brand, cams and rockers seem to do the job nice and the price of this converter seems like a bargain vs ther stuff.

I dont want to save 100$ and end up pulling my trans next year and I need to import this thing from USA as prices in Europe are just INSANE (1100$ for B&M)

Some recommendations would be great. Thanks!
 
I'm a stick man so can't help with the selection process.
But, I guess rebuilding yours, in your country, is out?
I worked nearly 6 years in a rebuild shop. My transmission station was right next to the TC line. I saw thousands of TCs being; cut open, rebuilt, and welded back up.Rebuilding them didn't look like rocket-science to me.I live in a little tiny province (population wise), and in an even tinier population area with-in it, and I can find at least two machine shops locally, that could do the work, and for low dollars.
Now finding the guts might be another matter.
Good luck
 
My old converter is in pieces inside. I tried rebuild but they called me and said that I can forget about it...
 
I had cheap converter, previous owner of my car saved everywhere.
Since purchase I had to get:
- new timing set
- new valves and full head work
- new cam with lifters
- new rockers
- new pushrods
- new alternator
- new water pump
- new fuel pump
- full carb rebuild
- full front and rear suspension rebuild
- new starter
- new exhaust (excluding headers)
- new spark plug wires
- new spark plugs
- new ignition
- lots of work on electrical
- new battery
- new distributor
- new master cylinder
- all new hard and soft brake lines
- new front spindles
- disc brake conversion kit
- full trans rebuild
- new converter

Also tons of body work as car was just bondo over rust. I got taken for a ride and trying to sort this car out since. I still somehow really like the damn thing! Also I like wrenching on it, the only problem is money...

Places where I see no savings are forged bottom end of the motor (wiseco pistons, h beam rods, forged crank), transmission internals, rear end seems solid 3,75" with 4,11 gears. Conversion kit for big block is nice Schumacher setup, headers are TTI, and frame connectors are done well.

Converter was cheap Summit unit I guess, cant find bill for it in cars paperwork.
 
I feel for you, man.
I bought my 68 Barracuda in about 1978. It was in great shape. Then I started my family and the car went into storage for nearly 20 years.Then I finally dug into it. The body was not mint anymore. But nothing like you talk about. I had it pretty easy.And I finished in 99, just before the prices went crazy.I have another 69 FormulaS car I'd like to build, and a 68 Cuda as well. But Ima thinking, I'll never get to those. I'm 63 now and semi retired means semi-broke.
All the best to you
 
I've had good luck with Hughes converters and I see it costs less than TCI or B&M so if I were in your shoes I'd go with the Hughes. Not familiar with Revmax. Dynamic is a real good converter also but costs more. I've also had good luck with PTC
 
Final update from me:
Car is running better then ever, I finally ordered PTC converter built to my spec and the difference is just HUGE. Its like having more power overall. I think its my best buy for the car yet. Customer service from PTC is fantastic. I waited just 2 weeks from ordering time to have it built and delivered to Europe. Expected it to take like a month...
I can put nitrous on now ;-)
Also full transmission rebuilt resulted in very nice firm shifts. Its just great. I put it together pretty tight with minimal clutch pack tolerances and minimal input shaft play.
Also used teflon rings everywhere.
The only problem I found during rebuilt was that all bushings were too tight and it all needed machining before I could throw it back together.
It was actually really good cause I had some scaring on the working surfaces due to pieces of converter flying around.
Thanks for all help and suggestions!

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Last edited:
Bad1Cuda said:
I have a project car that I have been working on for about 6 years. It has a 440 with 727 in it. It is a 1977 440 and 727. I rebuilt the 727 a couple of years ago. The car is now running. I have it on jackstands. When you put it in forward or reverse gear it does not move wheels until about 3000 rpms. I put a pressure gauge on the return line and it only reads around 2psi at 1000 rpms and around 12-15 at about 3000 rpms while in drive. I have checked and adjusted both bands. I thought maybe the tabs were broken on the pump, so I pulled the transmission this morning. Tabs are still there nothing obviously wrong with pump. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Fluid was checked while in neutral.
Click to expand...
Hey I was just wondering what the solution ending up being to this issue because I am having the what seems to be the exact same problem. So any insight would be much appreciated. Cheers
 
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