727 yoke not far enough in?

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4spEd

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I am going thru a charger I recently acquired, it was original 383 2barerel now 440/727/ 8 3/4. The swap was done before I got the car.
I have been going thru the entire car and am now underneath and notice what looks to be that the drive shaft might be to short?
 

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Good idea. I will wait till weekend as im dropping pan so i can see how far its in and how much more it goes in. Is there a minimum that should be inside beyond seal?
 
It looks alright to me, it is deceiving though as it has an aftermarket rear trans seal which does not have the integral dust boot which would cover up another 1 1/2" or so of the yoke. As was said above, disconnect it at the differential and see how far you can push it into the trans, should be approx. An inch.
 
Looks fine to me also.
You can see where the old seal dust boot position was on the yoke and that's about right.
 

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thought i would hijack this thread. as i too am questioning this here is a picture of my current shaft.

I am getting some vibration around 50mph.

i have a ebody big block 727.

I have about 1 3/4 of travel to bottom out the sleeve. When i go to bottom out the sleeve to measure it it bottoms out on the splines on the back of the output shaft, not on the face of the transmission. is this ok? I have an 8" yoke looks like. is that the correct yoke?
 

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I'd check it for play side to side and up and down.
If there isn't any or very little I'd be ok with it, and if there is then inspect the yoke for wear then replace the bushing and seal.
Bottoming on the splines is fine.
Wall thickness, I have no idea.
 
grassblaster said:
thought i would hijack this thread. as i too am questioning this here is a picture of my current shaft.

I am getting some vibration around 50mph.

i have a ebody big block 727.

I have about 1 3/4 of travel to bottom out the sleeve. When i go to bottom out the sleeve to measure it it bottoms out on the splines on the back of the output shaft, not on the face of the transmission. is this ok? I have an 8" yoke looks like. is that the correct yoke?
Click to expand...

Right or wrong I can't say but I'd be willing to bet the vibration is related to that "excessive" yoke exposure. And if that is true it could be that the bushing, is now or already was, excessively worn.
The yoke needs to be in as far as possible yet not far enough to bottom, as the rear end moves around under suspension, and the pinion angle, changes. I really doubt that the yoke, when sliding forward, somehow butts splines. More likely is that the yoke hits a larger section diameter of the output shaft, and binds up. Most of the long yokes I have seen are counter-bored to prevent that. Every once in a while I have see one that is not bored or not bored far enough. If you make it run too deep, it will punch out the rear plug. and then the oil will come out.
 
ok thanks.

they refused to use my ends on my old one claiming they look twisted. along with the dents and bad weld. they decided all new is best.

I went 1" longer than the old. Still should and 1" to go before it bottoms out. so if i measured right i"ll be all set.
 
grassblaster said:
ok thanks.

they refused to use my ends on my old one claiming they look twisted. along with the dents and bad weld. they decided all new is best.

I went 1" longer than the old. Still should and 1" to go before it bottoms out. so if i measured right i"ll be all set.
Click to expand...

See now,that would explain the binding up,the same as if it were jamming up on a larger section of the M/S.
 
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