Especially if the woman has long claws!
Yep, that's what I said, and I stand by it.
My son and I were troubleshooting a problem with his 360 truck. We found the vacuum canister diaphragm was ruptured, and he was using full manifold vacuum. We replaced the canister, set it for the timed spark port, then retimed the dist. Difference in performance was amazing. Also, seems to me if using the full manifold vacuum and the engine backfires hard that could cause a ruptured VC?
IN GENERAL, if switching to manifold vacuum helps, then there's other issues with your timing and/or advance that need to be addressed. I'm NOT gonna sit here and start a pissing match with you. It's a vacuum hose. He moves it and it helps, or it doesn't and he moves on. I'm done.
Lol I appreciate your guy's advice, hope I didn't start a **** throwing contest. Engine is completely stock, besides it having egr from factory the new manifold removed egr. Carb was bought off my dad's friend who's a mechanic he said it was too small and needed a bigger one so I figured it'd be good for the 318. I'm not extremely knowledgeable about what could be wrong, it almost feels as if it's leaning out and when leaning on the throttle it sputters and dies. Unless it's all in my head I wanna say it runs better after it's warm and been driving.
Choke's been adjusted multiple times by my mechanic because it had a hard time starting. Even he was racking his brain as to why it was so finnicky, one morning the engine kept turning over and wouldn't fire, I took off the air cleaner and the choke was stuck shut not letting any air in, I cracked it open and it started immediately. He also changed the springs for the metering rods and I don't think it's affected much.
Thanks for the advice, but my problem isn't the engine idling. Once it starts it idles fine and the problem lies when I start driving, not necessarily an off-idle stumble but when I start accelerating there's a lack of power in a otherwise smooth powerband. About a quarter throttle there is a dead spot and it will hesitate and die if you don't let off or stomp on it. Drove it on the highways and it's the best it's ever felt, feels super comfortable. Just getting there is rough lol
I fought a 1411 for months trying to get it straight. I finally just kept upping the jet size and using a smaller and smaller metering rod until I was at the richest combo and it liked it.
I'm glad that worked out for you, but it is not a reasonable solution in my eyes. Something is making your A/F ratio way too lean. Seriously, going to the max jet/rod combo to make an engine happy means there is a serious vacuum leak somewhere that you're trying to cover up.
When you check and check for vacuum leaks and none are found, then the solution lies in the fuel distribution. I even hooked the smoke machine up to the engine and found no area for a vacuum leak. Many other people stated this carb ran extremely lean on their mild strokers.
Wow, I'm surprised that you need to go that far to make it work correctly. I know the Edelbrocks claim to fame is the excellent performance for street vehicles, but can be tuned for modified ones as well. Setting the jets & rods to max would certainly pour a lot of fuel into that engine. I am running an AVS2 on my stock 360 & have a 408 on the way from Blueprint. Hope I don't have to go as far as you did to make it work correctly!
I would have been better off with a 1405 or 1406. Many people said the 1411 is extremely lean out of the box, so I would say the AVS2 is better than the one I used.
